At the end of Live and Let Die, James Bond wears a double-breasted suit by Mayfair tailor Cyril Castle made in mid grey dupioni silk. This is Bond’s first double-breasted suit of the series. In previous films Bond wears a double-breasted navy blazer and a naval commander’s uniform, but not a normal double-breasted suit. The double-breasted suit fits Bond’s character since he is a naval commander, though he may wish to distance himself from his military position when not in uniform. James Bond previously wears a dark grey dupioni silk suit in From Russia With Love. Dupioni silk is characterised by its irregular slubs and slight shimmer, and whilst it resists wrinkles it also takes a crease very well. It’s downside is that it wears warm, even in lighter weights.
This suit coat has the traditional six-button front, which has two to close and one to show. Cyril Castle cut his double-breasted jackets with less wrap (overlap) than most tailors do, and Roger Moore wears similar double-breasted suits made by Castle in The Saint and The Persuaders. The lapel width of a double-breasted jacket varied less with the fashion trends than the single-breasted jacket did, resulting in a less dated look. Traditional double-breasted lapels are wider than single-breasted lapels, so they fit the 1970s fashions well. Roger Moore’s clothing looks far more elegant than the more noticeably outdated clothes worn by David Hedison’s Felix Leiter.
The jacket’s cuffs have the same flared link-button style that the other suits in the film have. The jacket has deep double vents in the rear. The pockets are slanted with flaps, and there is a buttonhole in the left lapel only—many double breasted suits have buttonholes in both lapels. The suit trousers have a darted front with three-button side adjusters and slightly flared trouser legs.
Bond’s cream shirt made by Frank Foster has a moderate spread collar, two-button cocktail cuffs and a fly front that covers the buttons with a placket that has one stitching line down the centre. The tie has a grey ground with some sort of large red motif, which can best be described by the pictures. Bond’s shoes are black.
What are link button cuffs?
Link button cuffs are closed with two linked buttons that act like a cuff link. It's not a typical barrel cuff.
Can you have more than one link button? Like a typical suit has 4 or 3 button cuffs but could you have 4 link button cuffs.
I don't think more than one link button would be possible, based on the way the cuff is shaped. It wouldn't look natural to place more than one button on the cuff since there is no straight line for the buttons to follow.
RIP
Dave Hedison
Hello Matt, I was wondering what makes Hedison’s outfit outdated? I know the tie looks outdated to me.
Are you referring to his brown blazer as well?
The tie, the long shirt collar and the wide lapels all do it.
I would like to start off by saying this is a beautiful suit. I like the colour of this suit and the fact that this suit is a double breasted suit. Very well made point that a double breasted suit works great for James Bond because of his navel background. I think James Bond is more than welcome to wear double breasted suits today. I was wondering Matt with Roger Moore wearing many different shoes styles in the films what shoes is he wearing here?
I would not mind a return to double breasted lounge and dinner suits for James Bond.
I concur. I’ve found myself wearing a lot of double breasted suits and blazers these last couple of years. They really set you apart from the crowd while staying traditional, and not resorting to weird flashy details (though I bet someone will argue they are intrinsically flashy).
My favourite article of clothing at the moment is a very heavy 16oz navy DB blazer with unpolished brass buttons. If anyone is ever dubious about the flashiness of brass buttons buy them unpolished, they really don’t draw attention like you think they will.
If the placket doesn’t have visible buttons, is there an extra part where the buttons are?
Yes, the buttonholes are sewn on a strip under the placket.