For this entry we will discuss the cut of Sean Connery’s suit jacket. Many call this the “Conduit Cut”, after tailor Anthony Sinclair’s premises on Conduit Street in London. Cyril Castle, Roger Moore’s tailor in the 1960s and 70s, was also on Conduit Street, and I don’t think it would be fair to not equally consider his contribution to the “Conduit Cut”. Sinclair’s and Castle’s jacket cuts were very similar, though while Sinclair was cutting button two suits for Connery, Castle was making button three suits for Moore to wear on The Saint.
Let’s get back on track and take a look at Sean Connery’s suit jacket. The example pictured is a button two, single vent jacket from a suit made of charcoal grey dupioni silk, worn in From Russia With Love. All of Sean Connery’s suit jackets have a button two front, and the button stance is considerably lower than what is popular right now in 2010. The low button stance emphasizes his waist and the “V” shape of his torso. The waist is nipped in to give the jacket shape although I wouldn’t call his suits slim, merely just fitted. The chest is cut full with a bit of drape, and the shoulders are natural but look large due to Connery strong and masculine physique. There is a subtle roping in the sleeve heads. The gorge (where the lapel and collar meet) is at a standard height, not too high as is typical today. Though the narrow lapels and pocket flaps date this suit to the 1960s, the cut of the suit overall is timeless.
The cut of the jacket isn’t as slim as those most people associate with the 1960s. The button two front was known to be popular in the 1960s in America, but in England the button three suit was still the norm. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the button two suit was fully accepted in more conservative circles there.
Sean Connery’s suit trousers have double forward pleats, the kind that open towards the fly. They have a long rise and sit at Connery’s natural waist. The legs are tapered down to the bottom for a military-like appearance and are finished at the bottom with turn-ups (cuffs) to weigh the trousers down and keep them looking neat. The waistband has an extended tab that hooks rather than buttons, and there are three-button side-adjusters on the side in the “Daks tops” style. See a closer look at Sean Connery’s trousers that accompany his suit jackets.
Connery’s pale blue shirt is from Turnbull & Asser and has a spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie is a navy grenadine, tied in a four-in-hand knot. He wears a white linen folded pocket handkerchief and black derby shoes with the suit.