Whilst in Scotland in The World is Not Enough, Bond wears a Cheviot tweed suit made by Brioni. This suit is charcoal (probably in a black and grey birdseye weave) with a blue windowpane, city colours on a country suit that work quite well. The suit coat has Brioni’s typical straight shoulder line, but the chest was cut with some drape unlike the usual clean-chested Brioni. The button three front has a low button stance and the lapels roll gently over the top button. The suit coat has double vents and four buttons on the cuffs, plus slanted pockets with a ticket pocket complete the English country look.
Bond wears his darted front trousers with a belt. The trousers have tapered legs and a turn-ups.
Bond wears a white shirt from Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar and double cuffs. The tie is wool knit tie in black, since he just came from a funeral. Bond’s shoes are black Church’s Presley monk shoes. Overall the outfit is a bit informal for a funeral, though the dark city colours and black shoes help. The overcoat Bond wears over this suit will be covered later.
Hello, my name is Peter Cirino(piero.cirino@alice.it) and an Italian journalist. Recently, a magazine, I did a search on the suit worn by Brosnan in the 007 and made by Brioni.
I follow with attention and curiosity this blog and I appreciate their efforts. About this suit, I streams that the fabric is hopsack, apparently similar to the Cheviot tweeds. It 'a widowpane carbon, but the fabric is hopsack. I wish you good work and hope to be liked.
Observe closely. This is how a three button coat should be cut, but rarely is these days.
I've been looking forward to you covering this one. I love Brosnan's Brioni suits, this is a nice one to look at as we enter into the colder months.
A lot of fans criticize Brosnan for being a bit of a dandy, but I think that his (and of course Hemming's) sense of style gives us a Bond that's a traditionalist with a military background and an acute eye for timeless fashion with only the slightest concessions to the trends of the day.
The danger is of course is that he often stands out as the best-dressed man in the room, which may not be the greatest asset in spying, but it does look excellent for us viewers.
The windowpane suit might not be strictly formal for a funeral setting, but at least the designers didn't foist another of those horrible patterned ties on Brosnan.
Peter, there was a newspaper article written on the clothes of The World Is Not Enough that states the fabric is indeed Cheviot tweed, and the diagonal wales on screen would suggest a twill weave, not hopsack. Where did you find it to be hopsack? Nevertheless, it can still be Cheviot tweed, whether it's a twill weave or hopsack weave. Cheviot tweed describes the wool, though it is typically woven in twill and herringbone weaves.
Oh, how I wanted a suit like this when I saw this film in high school. I remember searching the vintage stores on Melrose Ave, hoping to find a windowpane suit.
Peter, I looked at the close-ups of the suit again and now I can kind of make out the hopsack weave. The diagonal lines might just be an illusion. Thanks for the information.
Happy to check out was good. There are other suits Brosnan on which I can add details and, if you can help, I will be happy to do so.How do I create an account, without appearing as anonymous? All the best, Piero.
Where can you buy a similar suit? I like this look.
Very nice. After the tie in the pre-credits sequence for TWINE, I think Brosnan's wardrobe calms down for his last two films.
What exactly is a tweed suit?
Tweed is a rough, heavy woolen cloth, originally woven in Scotland.
I wondered about the necktie pierce wears with this suit. I noticed you say its a wool knit necktie and it appears to be somewhat thicker than a grenadine. When I called Turnbull and Asser they were trying to be tell me that he wore a black grenadine tie, but I have grenadine neckties from Turnbull and asser and they are certainly not this thick. Any idea where the neck tie came from?
It is not a grenadine and not silk. You’re right that it’s a very thick tie. I would have guessed the tie is from Turnbull & Asser, and no matter what they tell you it still may be. You’ll need to talk to someone who has a very clear memory of what they sold in the late 90s. It’s either wool or cashmere, and it is ribbed like the cuffs on a jumper. That’s why I believe it’s a knitted tie.
As one of my favorite suits from the series stated at the end of your article that this piece is a bit informal. But being that the setting is in Scotland and the country side along with appearing to be cold do you think it was the appropriate choice? Considering the conditions what type of suit would be more appropriate for a funeral for this type of setting?
Is a “guardsman slant” the same to a military hem? I’ve never heard the term.
Yes, it’s the same thing.
Could Brosnan’s tweed suit coat be worn as sports coat in a pinch Matt?
Yes, it could work, especially with lighter grey flannel trousers.
A black suit would work better for a funeral.
I recently had made a suit inspired by this one in the same colours, but in a summer weight. Charcoal and dark grey threads in a hopsack weave with a bold medium blue windowpane. The weave gives it a very casual, even tweed-like appearance. I look forward to wearing it to a wedding this February, Australian summers make it difficult to look good and feel comfortable dressed up!
Thanks for the inspiration, Mr. Bond.
@timothy could you please specify the brand and code of the cloth?