The dark solid tie is a staple of the Sean Connery James Bond wardrobe. In Dr. No and From Russia With Love that tie was always a navy grenadine tie, most likely from his shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser.
The solid grenadine tie is one of the most versatile ties. Because it is solid it will not clash with other patterns, but its texture ensures it has interest. Other textures can work just as well as grenadine does, but few are as luxurious and as unique as the lacy grenadine. The grenadine tie is less formal than the satin tie—the dressiest of all neckties—and sits around the same level of formality as the less interesting repp tie. Unlike the satin tie it can pair nicely with most sports coats.
It Is Not the Same as a Knit Tie
Do not confuse grenadine ties with the knitted silk ties, which James Bond favours in Ian Fleming’s novels and what Sean Connery wears throughout Goldfinger. While the grenadine might look similar in texture to the knit tie, they are completely unrelated.
The knitted tie is a more familiar tie, which somewhat resembles a sock. Like a sock, the knitted tie is a tube of knitted silk. It usually has a straight hem at the bottom, though some, like Tom Ford’s knitted ties are finished with triangular bottoms. The knitted tie is a sportier tie and disliked by many due to its straight hem. Yet the literary James Bond wears it, and the film Bond occasionally wears it as well.
The director of the first Bond film Terence Young most likely made the decision to dress James Bond in the more sophisticated grenadine tie rather than a knit tie.
What Is Grenadine Silk?
Grenadine is a luxurious silk, very delicate and much more formal than a knitted tie. It’s a wonder it holds up to the wear and tear that James Bond puts his clothes through.
Grenadine silk is woven—not knitted—on a jacquard loom in a gauze weave, also known as a leno weave. Gauze weaves are very open yet very stable, though they have a fair amount of stretch. Whilst in ordinary weaves the warp and weft yarns go over and under each other, the gauze weave adds a third dimension to the weave by having warp yarns that also cross over each other.
Grenadine silk is woven by two mills in the Como region of Italy: Fermo Fossati and Seteria Bianchi. Turnbull & Asser gets most of their grenadine silk from Seteria Bianchi, while Drakes and Mason & Sons get theirs from Fermo Fossati. Sam Hober has the largest selection of grenadine ties available anywhere and sources silks from both Fermo Fossati and Seteria Bianchi. Fermo Fossati is the more prominent weaver of grenadine silk, and ties of their grenadine silk are more widely available.
Silk is not the only fibre used for grenadine. Polyester, wool and blends of silk and cotton, silk and wool, silk and cashmere, wool and cashmere have also been used for grenadine. Fermo Fossati also make silk shantung grenadine, which has slubs.
Though all of Bond’s grenadine ties are woven in a single colour, grenadine can also be found in two-tone with different colours in the warp and the weft, in striped patterns and with dots.
Types of Grenadine Silk
There primarily are two different types of grenadine silk: large gauze and small gauze. Both the large gauze, known by its Italian makers as garza grossa, and the small gauze, known by its Italian makers as garza fina or garza piccola are equally versatile, though James Bond prefers the large gauze, which has more character but is also more delicate. Fermo Fossati and Seteria Bianchi make both types of grenadine, and Bianchi nicknames their large gauze ‘Prometeo’ and their small gauze ‘Filolao’.
Other varieties of grenadine have been historically woven. It’s the twists and open weave that characterise grenadine silk. Without these characteristics it is not true grenadine silk. ‘Mock’ grenadine also exists, which has a similar texture to grenadine. The texture is created by floats rather than a gauze weave and does not have an open weave.
Two Sides of the Silk
Grenadine silk does not have a ‘right side’ and a ‘wrong side’, though each maker of grenadine silk has their own idea of what is supposed to the the right side. The right side of Fermo Fossati’s garza grossa is equivalent to the wrong side of Seteria Bianchi’s. This means that either side from either maker can be used without detriment to the silk or tie, and it’s a personal preference as to which side is better. Grenadine looks similar on both sides, but each side has unique qualities.
The right side of Fermo Fossati’s grenadine and the wrong side of Seteria Bianchi’s grenadine has a delicate, lacier and more web-like appearance. The wrong side of Fossati’s grenadine and the right side of Bianchi’s grenadine has more of a honeycomb look and more overall texture. This is the side that Sean Connery’s grenadine ties use. Because this side has slightly more texture, it shows up better on screen than the other side would.
Grenadine Tie Construction
The grenadine tie is constructed like any normal tie: it is folded on the bias, it has a wool interlining for body, and it is finished with a triangular tip. The wool interlining must be dyed the same colour as the silk so the colour of the interlining does not show through the open weave. Grenadine ties may be made in a seven-fold construction that does away with the interlining in favour of extra folds of silk to give it body.
Most grenadine ties, like most ties, have a tipping to fill in the backside of the ends of the tie and give a finished look to the tie. Some grenadine ties have no tipping, which necessitates hand-rolled edges for an elegant finish. Sean Connery’s grenadine ties in his 1960s James Bond films are made without tipping and are slightly see-thought at the tips.
Hand-rolled grenadine ties without tipping have more interest and involve a higher level of craft to make than standard tipped grenadine ties, but this variation does not effectively change the tie’s formality.
James Bond’s Grenadine Ties
Sean Connery wears large-weave grenadine ties in all of his James Bond films except Goldfinger, his only Bond film to not feature grenadine ties. In Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Thunderball, You Only Live Twice and Diamonds Are Forever he wears dark navy grenadine ties. In From Russia with Love he adds a lighter shade of navy, and in Thunderball and Diamonds Are Forever he adds black and dark brown to the roster. In black it makes an excellent funeral tie, and this is exactly what James Bond wears to a funeral at the beginning of Thunderball. In Diamonds Are Forever he also adds an amethyst-coloured—a pale purple—grenadine tie. In Never Say Never Again he wears a large-weave grenadine tie in mid-grey. Except for the amethyst grenadine, all of the other colours are still available today.
When Roger Moore brings traditional English clothing back to the Bond series in For Your Eyes Only, he also brings back the grenadine tie in grey large gauze with his grey flannel suit.
Where to Find Grenadine Ties
Today, grenadine ties are more popular than they have ever been. They are easy to find from countless brands around the world and are no longer exclusive to the most luxurious brands, something that was hardly the case before the 2010s. Thanks to the internet, they have seen a renaissance.
Turnbull & Asser still sell the same large-gauze grenadine ties that Sean Connery wears in his Bond films, but in a different width and with tipping. They change their tie widths periodically to follow fashion trends. The same type of grenadine ties can be found at many other shops on London’s Savile Row and elsewhere in Mayfair, on London’s Jermyn Street, in Milan, and elsewhere. Sam Hober offer bespoke grenadine ties in a wide range of colours online at a reasonable price. Specify the wrong side of the silk to get the Connery look with their grenadine ties.
I started watching James Bond movies in my middle school years. Pierce Brosnan was my generation's Bond and still is, and he inspired my own sense of style from that early age. In many ways, Bond influenced me more than anybody else in my life. Its thanks to 007 that I never dressed solvenly in my teens/early 20s like so many others my age. Now at 25, Im still the best dressed person I know!! :)
Your blog is a welcome addition to my daily reading. Keep up the good work.
The more I read the more I wonder, how would you Matt, have Bond dress in BOND 23?
Perhaps that's a question for later though, as Dr. No is still being covered!
Grenadines are lovely and a staple in my wardrobe and I think that they are more practical than the knits.
Unfortunately the ones you get at shops are very thick and result in large knot (four in hand).
I get mine from Sam Hober, who custom makes them, and I specify them with a thinner inner lining which allows a smaller knot…more like Sir Sean!!!
http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-silk-ties/
I got a midnight blue grenadine from Hober in a narrower width so I could tie mine the same. It's a fantastic tie!
So, how close is the current version of the Turnbull & Asser Navy Grenadine tie to that in Dr. No?
They are slightly wider now but still the same.
T&A have just released the slim 8cm version.
http://turnbullandasser.co.uk/tie-8cm-na-plain-woven-grenadine-silk-1
This is slightly wider than most of Connery’s 1960s ties, but this width will look more balanced on most people.
Matt,
I remember you told me before Sean Connery wore different shades of blue grenadines, and was wondering. Would he wear lighter shades of blue to offset his navy suit albeit being a darker color and therefore making his grenadines stick out?
Sometimes they were a little lighter, but it looks like he always tried to get the closest colour to his suit. He never wanted the tie to stand out.
Oh! Ok thanks
Great article. What do you think of the grenadine ties on the house of ties website? It looks like they have three versions of the navy tie, each of different widths. Do you think the weave also differs between the versions?
The weave varies. The “Grenadines IV” is garza fina and the others are garza grossa.
I see. Which of the two grossa versions would be the best width match for Connery’s in your opinion, 8cm or 7.5cm?
In Dr. No they were probably around 8cm, and more like 7.5cm after that. 8cm won’t look as silly after the current fashion trends pass, and that’s what I would recommend.
Matt do you recommend the Linkson Jack ties featured on the top right of the page? Do they closely resemble the ones used in the films?
Yes, I recommend them. They are very well made. If you get a tie custom made from them, request that the back side of the silk be used for something like what Turnbull & Asser makes. I’ve discussed that with Linkson and they can do it.
As someone whose salary is unpredictable, shall we say, I’d like to recommend this site as a budget alternative for selling hand made Italian 7cm wide budget navy grenadine ties in the UK. £23 at the moment. I just bought one and it’s very nice.
http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/Handmade-slim-navy-grenadine-plain-tie?q=gbpdefault%7C%7CTS605NAV%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C
I wouldn’t even consider it an “alternative”. It’s a real grenadine at a fantastic price. Grab it while it’s still available!
Cool, I am glad you approve. I didn’t want to tread on the toes of your sponsors…!
We also offer some Grenadine ties from Fort Belvedere in three different lengths, self tipped or untipped with handrolled edges.
I just purchased an 8cm plain blue silk grenadine from Marks & Spencer for £17.50 Bargain.
I think I’ll buy a few more, in different colours… The only thing to bear in mind is the raised texture of the weave may incur a risk of snagging.
Hi Matt,
The linkson jack link on the right side of the page doesn’t work. Was there previously a discount promotion if redirected through this site?
Sorry, there isn’t any special deal available through here now.
Matt,
Is the Sinclair grenadine tie lined and would it fit with the current lapel width on the conduit cut suit?
Thanks
The Sinclair grenadine is lined (to not be lined would be an unusual exception, though Drakes and others do them now). The tie is narrower than the lapel width on the Conduit Cut suits, but I think they can still pair nicely together.
Hello Matt, I hope you are well. The podcast is fantastic, so thank you for your work on that.
How would you describe the formality of a grenadine tie? Can it be business attire, worn in a four-in-hand knot?
A grenadine tie is indeed business attire. It works well for many sorts of occasions, but it is a fairly dressy tie.
Thank you very much, Matt. I will enjoy wearing my grenadines to work.
Hi Matt,
Grenadine ties are indeed very versatile, but what would you say are their limits? Are grenadine ties formal enough for black lounge and morning dress? What’s the most casual one should wear them, with a jumper perhaps?
I would not wear them with black lounge and morning dress, but I wouldn’t say they’re off limits. You could wear them with a jumper if you like, but I think they’re best with a jacket.
Hi Matt, Great article! I am about to purchase my first grenadine tie. I am looking at Turnbull & Asser, and Sam Hober. I prefer Garza Grossa in navy. Do you know what the current navy for Turnbull and Asser is like compared to Connery’s grenadines? Sam Hober has a soft navy and a midnight blue in Garza Grossa, and a navy blue in the Prometeo weave. Do you have any knowledge of these current Hober colors? From your article, it sounds like Garza Grossa and Prometeo are the similar, both large gauze. Is there any differences in appearance between Grossa and Prometeo?
The grossa and prometeo are very similar but from different makers. The grossa midnight is closest, but there used to be a midnight prometeo that was the perfect silk.
Thank you Matt for your reply and expertise!
Do you guys have any recs for grenadine ties? About 90-95% of my ties are T&A, but when it comes to the grenadines I find they wear very quickly. I have a bespoke one from Shibumi which has fared much better. But I’m curious to hear what other people wear….
Grenadine silk only comes from two neighbouring mills, though the finer weaves are less delicate than the ones T&A uses. Some people find that using the other side of the silk is less delicate. Most makers use the other side. I have a few from Sam Hober.
Hi Matt. Do you know which Sam Hober colour is closest to Connery’s light navy ties? I’m thinking it would probably go better with a dark charcoal suit than a midnight blue would.
I recommend this one: https://www.samhober.com/grenadine-prometeo-silk-ties/navy-blue-prometeo-grenadine-silk-tie-7.html
Many thanks!
Matt, do you think a bright red solid tie like the one pictured on the left of the first picture can work on someone with a winter complexion ? If so, with what color of shirt and suit ? Or is better left for summer complexions ?
A bright red tie is better for a winter complexion than summer. It can overwhelm a summer complexion, but most other people can wear it.
There are other sources than T & A for grenadines as for sevenfolds (and even knitteds) , and even some of those on Jermyn Street are less excruciatingly priced than T & A’s superior quality but limited colour range options. Who would know the difference viewing them tied on your neck, as distinct from viewed up close from behind, including the finishings and labels etc?
Idea for a post: non-navy ties? Don’t get me wrong, I love navy ties, but if Bond were to branch out from navy, black, and brown, what colours would he turn to? Burgundy? Forest green?
Matt, when you state “Specify the wrong side of the silk to get the Connery look with their [Hober’s] grenadine ties” is that for the Grenadine Grossa or Prometeo ties (or both)? I got swatches from both silks and Hober seems to consider the delicate, lacier side the “right” side on both the Grossa and Prometeo. Thanks for clarifying!
It would be what Hober considers the wrong side for both. The side you use for either one is down to personal preference, which is one of the most beautiful things about grenadine silk.
What’s the closest available tie to match Connery’s navy tie in FRWL please? Is there a specific T&A one?
Turnbull & Asser still sell a navy grenadine tie. The exact shade is no longer produced by silk maker Seteria Bianchi. About a decade ago they produced much closer shade, perhaps the same one. You can get a grenadine Prometeo tie of this same silk from Sam Hober. They can make it to any specifications for a very reasonable price. You’d want it made to about 2 3/4 or 3 inches wide, no tipping and use the reverse side of the silk (compared to Hober’s preference.
What do you think of Mason & Son’s latest grenadine tie offerings? Theirs seems to be 3″ wide and with no tipping.
They got it right without tipping, but they used the wrong kind of grenadine this time.
I just found out that Mason & Sons also offer ties in garza grossa like Connery’s, but they’re not on the website.
Under Sam Hober, for the Grenadines is it the navy or dark navy please?
It is dark navy: https://www.samhober.com/neckties/grenadine-ties/grenadine-prometeo-silk-ties/dark-navy-blue-prometeo-grenadine-silk-tie-gpmt-23.html
Great, thank you Matt – super helpful :)
Amazing thank you Matt
Hi Matt, a couple questions :
To be simple, the closest we can get from Connery’s dark navy grenadine ties are the Sam Hober ones in midnight blue, garza grossa, and you have to specify using the wrong side of the silk ? The prometeo kind using the good side of the silk but being not dark enough ? I am a little confused !
Also, do you or anyone else know any other quality alternative to highly priced grenadine ties (T&A, Drake’s, etc. etc.) besides Sam Hober and Kent Wang ? Can we compare both of them or are the Sam Hober of superior quality/craftsmanship ?
Thanks in advance for your time :)
If you go with Sam Hober, you need to specify the wrong side for both Fermo Fossati’s garza grossa and Seteria Bianchi’s prometeo. Both silks are very, very similar. Seteria Bianchi’s right side is Fermo Fossati’s wrong side. Hober uses Fermo Fossati’s right side as the right side for both. The prometeo is no longer made in a dark enough shade of navy to look like Connery’s. I believe I still have a swatch of the old shade, and it was beautiful. Considering Dr. No was 60 years ago, they likely had different dyes then as well.
Sam Hober is the best place to get grenadine ties because they have the best colour selection, they make them bespoke, and they have superb prices for bespoke grenadine ties. I have grenadine ties from many places, but none from Kent Wang. Sam Hober’s quality is excellent, on the same level as Drake’s or T&A.
Matt, can you precise with which suits does Connery wear a lighter navy tie in FRWL ? I tried to check but they all look dark navy to my (untrained?) eye…
The navy suit and the chalk stripe suit both look like lighter navy ties to me.