Let’s go back to Goldfinger and take a look at everyone’s favourite, the grey and white glen check, tropical-weight three-piece suit made by Anthony Sinclair. James Bond wears five suits in the film but this is the one that everyone remembers most. It’s not a solid light grey but as you can see in the close-up below it is really a fine glen check in black, grey and white. This fabric is woven in a 2×2 hopsack (basket) weave with a high number of ends and picks per inch. A diagram of the fabric can be seen in the illustration below.
Holland & Sherry has three similar black and white versions of this cloth, including similar lightweight versions in their Perennial Classics and Target bunches.
The jacket is Connery’s usual button two with narrow lapels, this time with double vents, straight flapped pockets and a ticket pocket. The cuffs, as usual, close with four buttons. The shoulders are natural, the sleeve heads are roped and the chest has a little drape.
The trousers have the typical double forward-pleated front with Daks tops side-adjusters. The side adjusters have tabs that fasten to one of three smoke mother-of-pearl buttons on each side. The side pockets are slanted and jetted, offset from the side seam. Unlike the suit trousers Bond wore in his first two films, the trousers in Goldfinger are finished with plain bottoms instead of turn-ups.
The waistcoat has six buttons, with only five to button. The bottom button is placed on the cutaway part so that it cannot possibly be fastened. The waistcoat has notch lapels and four welted pockets. The back is made in the same dark grey lining that the rest of the suit in lined in. There is a strap across the back for slight adjustments.
The shirt is white with a faint broken grey stripe and has a spread collar, a front placket and double cuffs with rounded corners. The tie is a navy silk knit, the kind with a square bottom. Knitted silk ties are usually too casual or sporty for a worsted suit, but this is a very sporty suit, and thus the knitted tie goes well with it. Bond wears a folded white linen handkerchief in his breast pocket.
Bond wears two different pairs of black shoes with this suit. Most visible are a pair of black two-eyelet derby shoes, but Bond also wears a pair of black slip-on demi boots with elastic side gores. Bond bridges the gap between his light grey suit and black shoes with dark grey socks, providing a transition between the two.