Dinner with Kristatos in a Notched Lapel Dinner Suit in For Your Eyes Only


Last month I wrote about James Bond’s first notched-lapel dinner jacket in Goldfinger, and in For Your Eyes Only we first see Roger Moore in a notched-lapel dinner jacket out to dinner and the casino. The notched lapel style dinner jacket isn’t appropriate for a large black tie function, but it’s perfectly acceptable for a simple night out for dinner and at the casino.


Moore’s black dinner jacket made by Douglas Hayward has a button one front, jetted pockets, three-button cuffs and double vents. Typically the buttons on a dinner jacket are covered in silk matching the lapels, but here the buttons are black horn like those often found on a suit. The trousers have a silk stripe down the sides and are cut with a flat front and straight leg. The trousers also have a sort of waistband that acts like a built-in cummerbund. The waistband is very wide, flat silk that extends across the entire front and fastens with two buttons at the right side. There are two cash pockets, like large coin or fob pockets, just below the waistband, giving these trousers a very clean look.

Rounded double cuffs in For Your Eyes Only
Notice the horn buttons on the dinner jacket and the tonal stripes on the dress shirt

Moore’s shirt made by Frank Foster has a spread collar, rounded-corner double cuffs and a pleated front. The cloth is white cotton with a narrow tonal stripe, making this shirt similar to the dress shirt in Goldfinger. All parts of the shirt are made from the same tonal-stripe cotton. The shirt has regular mother of pearl buttons down the front placket.

With this suit, Moore wears black patent leather slip-on shoes with a horse bit detail across the vamp.



  1. A very nicely tailored dinner suit and Moore looks great while delivering (IMO) his best, and one of the best, performances as Bond. Is this the same dinner suit as the one he wears for dinner with Kamal Khan? I believe he wore the double-breasted one twice as well.

  2. I'll have to look more closely at the dinner suit in Octopussy to see if it was the same one reused. The double-breasted dinner suits in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker may be the same, though since both saw a considerable amount of action it makes it less likely that the suits were reused.

  3. It's so clear to me now that his clothing flatters him much better in the '80s, especially as he gets into middle age. Not a fan of the hairstyle though. Notch lapels and weird faux-cummerbund notwithstanding, this is a solid black tie rig.

  4. Moore's 80's suits look better than the suits in the 70s simply because of the proportionate lapels and trouser legs. But I think that Cyril Castle's suits had a better fit than Haywards (which are still excellent). Moore's 80's hairstyle goes back to the hairstyle that Moore had in the 50s and 60s, which can best be described as swept to the side but not parted. He started parting it in the beginning of the 1970s, after a trendier hairstyle in 1969's Crossplot.

  5. I’m surprised that Moore/Hayward would make the minor mistakes of notch lapels and plastic buttons on the jacket sleeves, but other than that this is very nice.

    • Actually, neither are incorrect. Notch lapels are frowned upon by many, but they have been around almost as long as the dinner jacket has. They are acceptable for less formal occasions, like a simple dinner as Bond is enjoying here. These buttons are horn, not plastic, though plastic buttons are not incorrect either and have long been used on Savile Row for dinner suits. Some may consider horn’s rustic texture inappropriate on a dinner suit. Fabric-covered buttons aren’t necessary.

  6. One can also take into account that Corfu is an informal island, and that could be the reason they chose notched lapels for the Corfu Casino and dinner. I don’t like it on Connery’s black tie in Never say never though.

  7. Hey Moore fans !
    I may be wrong but I read that some auction house was auctioning items from Roger’s personal collection soon, including some items from his Bond period. I am pretty sure this beautiful dinner suit will be present, I saw a very similar picture. If it’s not this one could be the one from Octopussy then.

    • Bonham’s is the auction house selling these pieces, and the black single-breasted dinner suit is the one from Octopussy. They had a midnight blue double-breasted dinner suit on their website, but they’ve since removed it. They said it was the A View to a Kill dinner suit, but only the trousers were. I informed them that the jacket was not from A View to a Kill. I suspect it was the one from The Spy Who Loved Me, but they had no information about it. Perhaps we’ll find out more about it later.


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