The Blue No. 1 dress seen here is the best uniform and worn on ceremonial occasions. Bond wears this officer’s uniform for briefings in You Only Live Twice, The Spy Who Loved Me and Tomorrow Never Dies. The colour of the wool is a true navy, which almost looks black. The jacket is an eight-button double breasted with four to button, and the gilt buttons have a crown and anchor motif. The double-breasted lapels have a buttonhole in each peak. The jacket has jetted pockets, short double vents, and the rank insignia of commander on the sleeve, consisting of three rings of gold braid with the executive curl in the upper braid.
The style of the trousers can vary, but often they are made with traditional forward pleats. They may have side adjusters, a self-belt, braces or some other method of holding them up. Sean Connery’s uniform trousers in You Only Live Twice are cut with a high waist, double forward pleats and and worn with narrow, dark braces buttoned to the outside of the waistband in front.
Officers’ dress uniforms are typically made by bespoke tailors who specialize in military cuts. A British military cut has strong, padded shoulders (often with roped sleeve heads), a clean chest and a long skirt. Sean Connery and Roger Moore likely did not have their tailors—Anthony Sinclair and Angelo Roma, respectively—make their uniforms because the former did a softer cut and the latter did an Italian cut. It’s possible that costumers Bermans & Nathans made the uniforms. Bermans & Nathans made other naval wear for Moore in The Spy Who Loved Me.
Both Connery’s and Moore’s uniform coats have an English military cut with a straight shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a clean chest and a suppressed waist. The British costumer Angel’s (successor to Bermans & Nathans) made Brosnan’s uniform, since having the Italian Brioni make a British naval uniform would be out of place. Brosnan’s uniform has a closer fit than his Brioni suits in Tomorrow Never Dies have.
Connery’s white shirt has a point collar and double cuffs and Brosnan’s shirt has a semi-spread collar and button cuffs. Moore’s ecru shirt—most likely made by his shirtmaker Frank Foster—has a point collar (with a large amount of tie space) but his jacket sleeves are too long and the shirt cuffs are not seen. They wear solid black silk repp ties in a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are shined black leather derbies. A peaked cap with a white crown accompanies the three uniforms.