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  • Matt Spaiser 6 April 2020 at 17:29 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesWith Tom Ford you're dealing with a designer's vision. With bespoke you need to deal with the limitations of house style, but that is typically more flexible, within reason.
  • Matt Spaiser 6 April 2020 at 17:26 on The Famous North By Northwest SuitI'm fairly sure it is white.
  • Tom 6 April 2020 at 16:06 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesLe Chffre, I was a bit surprised too. Not to hijack the thread, but my reasons for going MTM at Tom Ford was because of both sizing and for some styling options. I'm typically a 48 in other brands, but when trying on TF off the rack, I was caught between a size 48 and 50. The 48 fit me more like Craig's, a good fit in the shoulders but tight in the body with the button pulling. The 50 though was a bit too roomy. Since I felt more like a 49 (which doesn't exist at TF), I opted for MTM. The way they did the MTM process was having me try on a base model in a 50 (I went with the O'connor cut), and they then made measurements for adjustments to the collar, body, sleeves, and trousers. Doing MTM, I was able to select certain options that I prefer - notch lapels, removing the ticket pocket, double vents, a slightly longer coat length, and the fabric. I asked if it was possible to move the button stance down slightly (from above my navel down to my navel) and that was one change that they would not do. They were also adamant about doing five button surgeon's cuffs (with one button left unbuttoned). The result is a very nice garment, and I'd probably try TF again, but I'm also interested in other options with a Roman/military shoulder and a lower button stance either from British or Italian makers. I've yet to go bespoke and one day I would like to.
  • Le Chiffre 6 April 2020 at 15:08 on The Famous North By Northwest SuitCould the shirt be ivory, considering Grant had quite a tan in the movie ?
  • Le Chiffre 6 April 2020 at 15:05 on The Charcoal Blue Suit in Casino RoyaleI know there’s almost no material, but do you think you can cover Bond’s suit in the titles sequence of Casino Royale, Matt ? Or is it the same suit ? The (striped ?)tie and shirt definitely different though.
  • Matt Spaiser 6 April 2020 at 14:13 on James Bond and the Solid Black NecktieIt's most likely Turnbull & Asser.
  • jdreyfuss 6 April 2020 at 13:16 on James Bond and the Solid Black NecktieMy only black tie, other than my bow ties, is an Ottoman weave. Even though it's got a good amount of shine to it, I find it too plain to wear with a gray or dark navy suit for anything other than a funeral. With sportier or more casual outfits, like a cream silk-linen suit I have, or my medium blue semisolid, unstructured blazer, it works fine. I have a mohair basketweave suit in a dark but rich blue (marine blue I guess) with a tan windowpane check that it could probably work with, but I haven't tried it yet.
  • Saul 6 April 2020 at 08:49 on James Bond and the Solid Black NecktieAnyone know who made brosnans black cashmere necktie in twine?
  • Timothy 6 April 2020 at 08:03 on James Bond and the Solid Black NecktieI'm surprised to find many of my favourite outfits here; Connery's grey flannel in Thunderball, Moore's checked jacket in The Man with the Golden Gun, and Brosnan's tweed suit in The World is not Enough. I of course knew the ties were all black, but never made the connection. Maybe there's more to the black tie than I would ordinarily have given credit, seeing as I don't own one myself.
  • Ivan B. 6 April 2020 at 07:52 on James Bond and the Solid Black NecktieIf I recall, Timothy Dalton wore a black satin tie with his tan suit in his passport in the Living Daylights so I guess that's another time Bond wore a black tie with another ensemble.
  • Matt Spaiser 6 April 2020 at 02:33 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesI would have if they had not closed their doors last month. I believe they may still be doing business, but I don't know in what capacity.
  • Le Chiffre 6 April 2020 at 01:09 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesTom, were not you able to choose the button stance since you ordered a suit made-to-measure ? I am surprised.
  • Le Chiffre 6 April 2020 at 01:08 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesWould you include Kilgour as well ?
  • Tom 5 April 2020 at 17:19 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesThanks, Matt! It’s a pity that Brioni and some of the other Italian houses moved away from this style IMO. Hard to find off the rack these days. I recently went for a Tom Ford MTM with a strong shoulder, but the button stance is still a bit higher than I prefer.
  • Matt Spaiser 5 April 2020 at 16:20 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesAny of the military or equestrian Savile Row tailors can do a stronger shoulder like this. Norton & Sons, Dege & Skinner, Gieves & Hawkes, Kathryn Sargent, Meyer & Mortimer, Davies & Son, Bernard Weatherill, Huntsman and Richard Anderson are some of the tailors that are good at this look. You will have to request a lower button stance. One thing that is very different in the Savile Row look compared with Brioni is the shape of the lapel and gorge. The gorge of a Savile Row jacket is straighter and the lapels have more belly.
  • tredstone 5 April 2020 at 15:59 on The Royal Oxford ShirtManaged to get a response from Thomas Mason directly on this (for anyone else who cares). The answer was actually neither of the above - it is their Hampton line which is a royal oxford weave in 2x140. I don't think it's possible to get the TWINE mid-blue with that current range though. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/57e3a5f6d2b8570ffef91526/1549062652553-02JCR8GIF4XDXW7DN9LZ/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kMXRibDYMhUiookWqwUxEZ97gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z4YTzHvnKhyp6Da-NYroOW3ZGjoBKy3azqku80C789l0luUmcNM2NMBIHLdYyXL-Jww_XBra4mrrAHD6FMA3bNKOBm5vyMDUBjVQdcIrt03OQ/DSC_1515.jpg?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/57e3a5f6d2b8570ffef91526/1549062652759-0AXQG0RVLCD9W82MBWJL/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kMXRibDYMhUiookWqwUxEZ97gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z4YTzHvnKhyp6Da-NYroOW3ZGjoBKy3azqku80C789l0luUmcNM2NMBIHLdYyXL-Jww_XBra4mrrAHD6FMA3bNKOBm5vyMDUBjVQdcIrt03OQ/DSC_1514.jpg?format=2500w
  • Matt Spaiser 5 April 2020 at 02:13 on Remembering Roger Moore with the Anthony Sinclair Safari JacketGlad to hear it! It has become my favourite travel jacket. The wrinkle-free fabric and the pockets have made it indispensable for travel!
  • Tom 5 April 2020 at 01:26 on Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni ClothesI’m also a fan of Brosnan’s Bond style. I like the Roman/Military/Equestrian shoulder. I also like his lower button stance. Since Brioni cuts very differently now, which Savile Row tailor or RTW maker would you think comes closest to this style today, Matt?
  • Daniel Johnson 4 April 2020 at 21:33 on Remembering Roger Moore with the Anthony Sinclair Safari JacketMason and Sons just released these jackets. I picked up one in the color Sand.
  • Matt Spaiser 4 April 2020 at 10:48 on Dress in Layers in a Turtleneck and More in Die Another DayThis is a jumper that Bond wears under the cashmere polo neck. We see it briefly, and it’s one I mentioned in this article.
  • Shubham 4 April 2020 at 08:31 on Dress in Layers in a Turtleneck and More in Die Another DayI wanted to know what Pierce Brosnan is wearing in Die Another day bluray poster. Is it same cashmere sweater in different colour with buttons or ... https://images.app.goo.gl/Ef4zexb2xtyL8h5t9
  • Saul 4 April 2020 at 00:53 on Sir James Bond’s Double-Breasted Victorian Morning Suit in Casino Royale (1967)Thank you so much for sharing please keep them coming
  • Matt Spaiser 3 April 2020 at 23:51 on The Charcoal Blue Suit in Casino RoyaleI think it is similar.
  • Le Chiffre 3 April 2020 at 23:00 on The Charcoal Blue Suit in Casino RoyaleMatt, is this glen plaid’s scale similar to the plaid of the North by Northwest suit ? Or is it bigger ?
  • Le Chiffre 3 April 2020 at 22:42 on OSS 117’s Light Grey SuitLiving in Paris myself, I have paid a visit to Joseph Kergoat about a year ago. He is a very charming and passionate man who loves to talk about his work and the world of tailoring in general. I took some pictures of his work. He is still in activity ! If any of you go to Paris someday, it’s worth a visit. His prices are definitely not Paris’ highest for real bespoke. A bespoke suit here started at about € 3000 at that time. It’s completely out of my price range, but definitely a great quality/price ratio !
  • Matt Spaiser 3 April 2020 at 18:23 on Sir James Bond’s Double-Breasted Victorian Morning Suit in Casino Royale (1967)Hi Richard, Thank you for sharing this. It's wonderful to hear how much your grandfather was liked and how kind David Niven was to him.
  • richard hector-jones 3 April 2020 at 09:22 on Sir James Bond’s Double-Breasted Victorian Morning Suit in Casino Royale (1967)Hi Matt, My grandfather Leonard Whitley (of Benson, Perry & Whitley) was indeed both David Niven and Ian Fleming's tailor. When I was young my Mum used to tell me he made Niven's suit for Casino Royale. And 55 Days at Peking too incidentally. She went on the set of the latter as a young girl. My grandfather and David Niven were quite good friends especially given that he was just his tailor. Niven Invited my grandfather to spend Easter with him in France as well as inviting him and my mother on set. Fleming was according to my parents quite thrifty :-). Leonard also read out Feming's obituary on the Home Service. I have the transcript still. All the best, Richard Hector-Jones
  • tredstone 3 April 2020 at 03:15 on The Royal Oxford ShirtMatt, would Thomas Mason’s “Gold Oxford 140” fabric family be the equivalent of what Brosnan wore? I find Thomas Mason’s naming conventions a bit confusing. They label Royal Oxford as specifically 2x120s in terms of specs.
  • Matt Spaiser 3 April 2020 at 02:30 on (00)7 Essential James Bond Suits to OwnI do not wear enough suits to have seasonal suits, but I have many season sports coats. There's nothing wrong with a year-round suit. 9-oz worsteds are good year-round; they're warm in the middle of summer and cool in the middle of winter, but you can get by with it all year. In Dallas you will never need a winter suit. Where I am in New York, seasonal clothes make more sense.
  • Jtkuga 2 April 2020 at 23:49 on (00)7 Essential James Bond Suits to OwnMatt, Another excellent article I have had time to read and digest during this quarantine. My question is do you personally just have seasonal suits or do you have some you wear year round and then supplement your year round suits with some summer suits and some winter suits? As I build, or rather rebuild, my wardrobe I’m thinking about going with 3-4 year round and then a couple of summer and 1-2 winter (being in Dallas Winter suits aren’t as useful but I would like a flannel suit at some point). I have read somewhere that if your tailor tells you a suit is year round go somewhere else but I don’t think I know a person who does t have at least some suits they wear year round. How do you do it? Thanks again.