New Comments

  • EK 21 September 2019 at 00:57 on Dressing Left or Right with the Four-in-Hand KnotGreetings, This is the first I have seen on the left vs right side. I started calling it the left or right slider, being the slider part of the tie is on either side when tying. I noticed the natural tilt of the head, some more noticeable than others. If the head is tilted to the right, the knot is the right slider. Two noticeable examples come to mind are former Presidents Reagan and Bush1. Reagan, in his early years, started with the left slider four in hand before changing to the Windsor, which tilted to the left, the same as his head. Bush1 is tilted to the right. Some stay with the four in hand their whole life, never changing, while others change to the Pratt/Shelby or Windsor at some point, and is tilted to one side. Some just can't tell, and those who use multiple knots in their life. Truman is one I noticed wore both.
  • Matt Spaiser 20 September 2019 at 22:07 on Comparison: Grey Suits in Dr. No and Diamonds Are ForeverThat's very interesting. I'd say the only visual benefit is that the Dr. No adjusters are less visible from the front and thus look more elegant, but this doesn't matter much because the the trouser adjusters are never meant to be seen. I suspect that when the adjusters are further forward it puts less stress on the elastic because the elastic isn't extending as far (as a percentage of the entire length of elastic).
  • E.O. 20 September 2019 at 21:20 on Comparison: Grey Suits in Dr. No and Diamonds Are ForeverMatt, I've also noticed that the positioning of the DAKS Tops on the trousers have changed. Dr No trousers have them behind the pockets, while the Diamonds DAKS Tops are much more visible from the front and seem much more closer to the waist. Does this have a similar visual boosting effect like the button stance, or is it just a matter of taste?
  • Stan 20 September 2019 at 20:47 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig RepurposedHello, Renard, Thanks for your prompt reaction. In my comments, I’m trying to be as nuanced as I can as a matter of fact. I think you might be confusing ‘equivocations’ with ‘nuances’, after all? If you prefer, I can clearly and bluntly indicate that Bond is more cultivated than the vast majority of people. I have no problem with that. And certainly no inclination to evade anything. The trouble is that whenever somebody says things that bluntly, he will almost quite immediately be qualified as an elitist. And that I’ve heard enough in my existence. Also, why just simply bouncing back on my comments? I don’t deserve so much interest. On the other hand, everyone would be interested in -your own- definition of what a cultivated person is. As for your illustration of Bond’s implied snobbery, I was expecting something a bit more thorough from you, to be honest. You simply refer to the cinematic interpretation of the character. And whilst I enjoyed this train scene with Vesper, (warning: nuance) it is erroneous to claim that Bond did not come from money. Even though, again in all honesty, Craig’s version clearly shouts the opposite.. Bond discovering the merits of a tailored suit (without measurements nor fittings) is an insult to tailoring, as well as to his origins and upbringing. Again, please read the books. Do you really think that anybody, in 1953, could state something like: “The problem is not to get enough caviar, the problem is to get enough toasts” without having enough financial resources, other than his meagre civil servant salary ? And you can add annual golf club membership fees, maintenance of a vintage Bentley, etc. Not really indicators of truly ‘humble’ origins. He descends from a baronet, unless I got it wrong. Not a duke, or earl, but still, not really a ‘proletarian’. As for somebody more self assured not joining the duelling with snobs, instead of in ‘snobbery’: although it starts as an interesting way, I think your argument veers most erroneous. He is not duelling in snobbery, he is just appalled at the level of snobbery and implied stupidity the villains can display, and choses the luxury, and with an immense pleasure at that, of provoking them, and prove them how vain and shallow they can be. And to prove them that all the money in the world cannot buy taste, let alone, class. It is often the case of old money making fun of the new one, but without much diplomacy here. A real delight to read. I hope your next attempt will reveal where your real talent lies. This being said, I am glad you left the ‘wine and cigars’ non-event aside.
  • Jovan Gauthier-Vincent 20 September 2019 at 18:19 on (00)7 Variations on the Solid TieAgreed with Matt. My knitted ties get all sorts of compliments in the office as well. People tend to be more accepting of the casual ties, like knits and casual wovens, than more formal ones. Especially when the occasion or dress code is ambiguous but you'd rather be dressed up.
  • Dan Ippolito 20 September 2019 at 15:54 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig RepurposedRenard, you are confusing "fun" with "enjoyment". You might enjoy Craig's "darkandgritty" interpretation, but I doubt anybody would characterize it as "fun." The Roger Moore movies were FUN by any standards (lots of puns, beautiful locations, beautiful clothes), even though some book Bond purists argued that Bond shouldn't be funny.
  • Renard 20 September 2019 at 14:22 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig Repurposed@Dan Ippolito -That's a matter of taste - what you consider 'fun' needs not to be fun to others.
  • Renard 20 September 2019 at 14:17 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig Repurposed@Stan 'Equivocations': What strikes me about your comments is that they often have the character of "Yes, but...", f. i. 'Bond is a cultivated person, but not the smartest or the most knowledgable'. To me that clearly points in the direction that actually he is NOT truly cultivated. With your way of putting it you simply try to evade admitting it. Now, as to the snob issue: "Bond is perceived as a snob by the mass of ignorants who suffer from inferiority complex vis a vis his culture." -But what if he also suffers from that kind of complex? Bond grew up as an orphan, his parents were not rich. A key scene to illustrate that is the CR train scene when Vesper actually demasks his demeanour as a clear sign of an inferiority complex ("You don't come from money, and your fellow students always made you feel that"). All his expensive tastes are nothing but a means to hide his rather humble origins, not least from himself. She seems to be the first to make him think about it, make him aware of that. And as to his 'duels' in snobbery (with the villains): They might feel as inferior as he does; someone more self-assured would simply not join in that kind of game. So in this context I think he qualifies for being a snob.
  • Kyle 20 September 2019 at 13:35 on From Tailors with Love: Inside Frank Foster and Bond in MateraNow you've got me craving that Live And Let Die shirt!
  • tredstone 19 September 2019 at 20:17 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig RepurposedAgree 100% - fellow PhDs unite!
  • Dan Ippolito 19 September 2019 at 11:18 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig RepurposedStan, As a biologist, I especially appreciate and enjoy movie Bond's knowledge of scientific names: Pterois volitans, Nymphella polychlora, Orchidea nigra - love it! I really used to enjoy Bond's cheerful omnicompetence, until, as you said, "a very miserable Craig was parachuted into the equation." Frankly, I think the true snobs are those Craig fans who try to persuade themselves that they are watching serious, psychologically deep moviemaking because just having fun at a movie is beneath them.
  • Stan 18 September 2019 at 22:34 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig RepurposedI still do not see the equivocations you refer to, after my last clarification, but feel free to indicate which ones you consider as such. Skirting ? Whilst I love the root of the word, I don’t think so. Would I take the time to write about it at such length, or write full stop, had it been the case ? You got to ask yourself the question. Now, more importantly : is Bond really cultivated ? Well, yes. Not the smartest, or most knowledgeable, when compared to rocket scientists or pure technicians, but he has his share of culture. And I am talking about things like history, numerous cultural references, that you can spot in the books. (He never pretends to master a topic when he does not. Except in the case of a weak, short-lived cover, perhaps) In the films, his culture veers towards exaggeration, like giving the Latin name ‘Pterois volitans’ for the lion-fish to an inquisitive Stromberg, or providing the vintage of sherry in DAF. But that is part of the fun we (‘the older, yet hopefully discerning, generation’) enjoyed, until a very miserable Craig was parachuted into the equation. I wonder why, but I can visualise my last sentence being copy/pasted and being exposed, between quotation marks, in a future post 😉 Now, going back to your text: « wine and ....cigars ?? » Although I may enjoy one occasionally, I did not mention cigars at any moment, did I ? I wonder if you may not be confusing with Sherlock Holmes, who was capable of identifying cigars by their ashes ? Open to discussion. Moore was a former cigarette smoker, who transcended the habit by switching to cigars. Yet the literary Bond stuck to his Morland specials (and hated double-breasted jackets, another ‘Moorism’), considering cigars as part of the old world establishment, and certainly too snobbish for his taste. If I had not just started to know you a bit, Renard, I would tend to say that your lines belong to someone who clearly has a chip on the shoulder. And of the bitter type, at that. Instead I gladly challenge this reductive prejudice: I am still very curious to learn about your personal arguments that underlie your categorisation of Bond as a snob. And again, the only occasions when Bond uses his knowledge (call it upper class if you will) and his overall ‘culture’ as a contemptuous weapon against someone, it is when the said someone pretends to be who and what he is not, and thus forgets his place (love this old-fashioned, yet so eternal expression). The opportunity to mock the fraud is too good to be overlooked. Yet Bond would never show gratuitous disdain to anyone from a lower (or higher, as well) extraction than his. This is why I solemnly hate Craig’s obnoxious attitude to the bartender in CR. Crass. And positively shocking. Now: your definitions of a snob, and what makes Bond one, by all means, please (!!)
  • Matt Spaiser 18 September 2019 at 15:05 on Pick-and-Pick Suit in The World Is Not EnoughThat isn’t the right colour for the pipeline tie. Apparently, Herbie Frogg ties were made by Turnbull & Asser, so the choice was not as unusual as it seems.
  • tredstone 18 September 2019 at 14:38 on Pick-and-Pick Suit in The World Is Not Enoughhttps://ibb.co/CzTnWrV What do you guys think, is this the pipeline Herbie Frogg tie? Pic looks to be pre-TWINE... wonder if this might be another example of Pierce contributing something to the wardrobe? (Hence it being an atypical brand for Hemming, much like the GJ cufflinks)
  • E.O. 18 September 2019 at 14:15 on Woven Tie PatternsBrilliant! Thanks!
  • Matt Spaiser 18 September 2019 at 12:52 on Woven Tie PatternsI found this great article that explains what it is: https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2017/06/30/the-macclesfield-necktie/
  • Matt Spaiser 18 September 2019 at 12:45 on The Solid Black Suit: What is it Good For?Yes, I think that works very well.
  • Ivan B. 18 September 2019 at 12:28 on The Solid Black Suit: What is it Good For?I know that this post was a year old or so, but I would like to know your input on paring a dark burgundy tie with a white shirt and black mohair suit for a fancy night out. Does the tie color work with the suit combo?
  • Renard 18 September 2019 at 11:50 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig Repurposed"So: for me, he is -not- a snob." Well, that is a bit of an about-face (with reference to your penultimate post: "Snobbery, of course. For both parties, villains as well as Bond himself."). And your last posts contain so many equivocations with regard to Bond's snobbery that I cannot help thinking that you are skirting around the issue. "vis a vis his culture." -Is he really cultivated? Is it enough to know the right wines and cigars? Someone who merits to be considered "cultivated" should have a wider horizon. And if he only knows about wine and cigars, than that is the typical "snob knowledge" which is used first and foremost to make others feel inferior and which is not necessarily the distinctive mark of a (truly) cultivated person.
  • Renard 18 September 2019 at 10:49 on (00)7 Sean Connery Bond Outfits That Daniel Craig Repurposed"In the final analysis, I have to ask you Renard – do you even LIKE James Bond in any of his incarnations?" - Let me put it that way: I never belonged to those standing in front of a mirror saying to themselves "My name is Bond, James Bond". And IMO the literary Bond is not a very likeable person. But for one reason or another I like Connery's, Dalton's and Craig's Bond portraits.
  • degorde 18 September 2019 at 08:07 on (00)7 Variations on the Solid TieGood article again; now I would observe that plain tie are back in fashion since in Europe, at least, we see a lot of officials wearing exclusively solid tie mostly in dark blue; pattern looks like twill or something. So these days men seem facing the choice either to go without tie or when a tie is required by circumstances the tie of choice is solid.
  • E.O. 18 September 2019 at 03:37 on Woven Tie PatternsYour newest article took me back here. I have encountered the term "Macclesfield tie" a few times in this context, but does that refer to woven tie patterns like this, or is it the just the name of a certain pattern?
  • Matt Spaiser 18 September 2019 at 00:43 on Pick-and-Pick Suit in The World Is Not EnoughNo, darts are like pleats that are sewn shut. You can read more about them here: https://www.bondsuits.com/darted-trousers/
  • tredstone 18 September 2019 at 00:19 on Charcoal Suit in Bilbao in The World Is Not EnoughTrue! All that remains... https://www.instagram.com/p/zk5izDG6Re/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
  • tredstone 17 September 2019 at 23:37 on Pick-and-Pick Suit in The World Is Not Enough>> darted front trousers Is that another way of saying single pleat?
  • Matt Spaiser 17 September 2019 at 22:06 on (00)7 Variations on the Solid TiePete, the knitted tie is perfect for these occasions when you want to wear a tie but think you'll be overdressed. Wool ties can do the same in winter (Bond wears a wool or cashmere knit tie in The World Is Not Enough) and linen ties in summer. Solid ties in general are great when dressing down because they don't draw attention to themselves. The key is to look natural in a tie, and I think solid ties in muted colours are the easiest to wear.
  • Peter Brooker 17 September 2019 at 21:55 on (00)7 Variations on the Solid TieHow great you posted this. As an addendum we will be posting a video of James Bond ties on the YouTube channel from our chat with Daniel Stroupe of T&A. I have recently gotten into ties, but have found that people get taken back when I wear ties to casual events such as dinner with friends. It's like they feel under dressed. But I always err on the side of caution and go over dressed with a tie, than under dressed with just my dressing gown. An exaggeration, but you get my point.
  • Matt Spaiser 17 September 2019 at 19:31 on (00)7 Variations on the Solid TieThis is the first time that James Bond has worn a button-down collar with a tie. Roger Moore wore two button-down-collar shirts casually in A View to a Kill.
  • Jim S 17 September 2019 at 19:25 on (00)7 Variations on the Solid TieGood stuff as always. But a quick questions. I noticed in the latest shots from Italy, Daniel Craig is wearing a blue shirt with a button-down collar. Is this the first time Bond has worn a button-down collar?
  • tredstone 17 September 2019 at 17:28 on (00)7 Variations on the Solid TieI'm a big fan of the T&A lace ties. I probably have more of those than the grenadines... much more durable