For his first day of business in Jamaica in Dr. No, James Bond dons a tropical wool or wool-and-mohair glen check suit. Lightweight suitings are more often woven in a plain weave than a standard twill weave because a plain weave breathes better. With an equal number of ends and picks per inch, a glen check in a plain weave will be half the scale of the more traditional twill-weave Glen Urquhart check. The pattern below shows the black and cream glen check that Sean Connery wears in Dr. No.
The button two jacket on Connery’s Glen check suit made by Anthony Sinclair has natural shoulders, a slightly draped chest and a nipped waist. The button stance is higher than in Connery’s subsequent Bond films and the breast pocket is placed quite low, but it effectively breaks up Connery’s height. The jacket has jetted pockets, four-button cuffs and short double vents (about 8 inches long).
The trousers have double forward pleats, elastic button tabs on the sides of the waistband and turn-ups, with a high waist and tapered leg. Bond’s full-cut, pale blue Turnbull & Asser shirt has a cutaway collar, placket front and two-button turnback cuffs. The tie is a navy blue grenadine also from Turnbull & Asser. And he wears a folded white linen handkerchief in his breast pocket.
Bond’s shoes are black calf three-eyelet cap-toe derbys on a pointed last, possibly made by bespoke shoemaker John Lobb Ltd of St. James’, London.
Now Pay Attention
|Fabric||Black and cream plain-weave glen check, in tropical wool or wool and mohair|
|Front buttons||2, medium stance|
|Shoulder||Soft with roped sleeve heads|
|Hip pockets||Straight, jetted|
|Front||Double forward pleats|
|Support||‘DAKS Tops’ 3-button side-adjusters|
|Shirtmaker||Turnbull & Asser|
|Fabric||Pale blue cotton poplin|
|Cuff||2-button cocktail cuff|
|Brand||Turnbull & Asser|
|Shoemaker||Possibly John Lobb Ltd.|
|Style||Black three-eyelet cap-toe derby|
|ACCESSORIES||Folded white linen pocket square|