Meeting Mr White in a Navy Jacket in Spectre

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When meeting Mr White in Altaussee, Austria in Spectre, James Bond wears a navy wool and cashmere jacket from Dior Homme. The front of the jacket has five buttons covered with a fly. There is zip to close the fly, which is offset like the zip on a biker jacket. Whilst the biker jacket’s zip is angled, this jacket has a vertical zip that follows the fly. The zipped fly keeps the jacket warmer, though the buttons don’t serve a purpose with the zip. Jackets more open have a buttoned fly that conceals the zip instead. The sleeves to taper to the cuff and follow the shape of the arm, but to allow the hand though the cuffs have a long zip.

The jacket has a turn-down collar which can be flipped up and closed with a throat latch. The collar originally had black fur trim. There are set-in pockets on the front with straight flaps that fasten down on the corners with poppers. The inside the jacket has a black, quilted lining. There are horizontal darts over the shoulder blades to give fullness and neatness in the upper back. Though the jacket doesn’t match any traditional jacket styles, it has a practical design with a timeless look. Though Dior’s clothes mostly focus on the latest fashion trends, this jacket doesn’t suffer from being overly trendy.

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Under the jacket, Bond wears a polo neck—the proper rolled style—from N.Peal. It is in a colour they call “Fumo Grey”, which is a light and warm shade of grey that is very flattering to Craig’s complexion. It is designed for warmth and is cable-knitted in a heavy Mongolian cashmere.

The trousers are from Neil Barrett and have a flat front with frogmouth pockets. The trousers are black with a grey pattern of large tics made up of tiny tics in a blend of viscose, nylon, polyester and elastane. The legs are narrow and tapered, but the elastane content makes the narrow legs wearable. The trousers are worn with a belt.

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Bond wears two different pairs of boots with this outfit. Outside in the snow we can see black Danner “Mountain Light II” 5″ boots. These boots lace with five pairs of lugs to the toe and two pairs of speed hooks at the top for a secure fit. The boots are made of one piece with leather plus a counter up the back. They have Vibram soles with yellow cleats. Inside Mr White’s cabin Bond is wearing the Crockett & Jones “Radnor” boots in black calf. This is a plain-toe derby boot with four pairs of eyelets and five pairs of speed hooks, and it features a heavy-duty commando sole. The “Radnor” boots have a much sleeker look than the Danner boots. As the “Radnor” boots are not waterproof, it’s understandable that a different boot was chosen to wear in the snow. The “Radnor” boots would have to be the first choice for this scene.

Bond’s black leather gloves are the “James” model from Agnelle. The back is quilted and there are gathers on the underside of the wrist. The gloves are lined with 100% alpaca. Matching the jacket, the navy knitted cap—also called a beanie or tuque—is in a ribbed knit wool and is folded up at the bottom.

16 COMMENTS

  1. I like this look. The jumper looks great. I wear a V neck cream one which is way too big for me on really cold days. It goes well with a black pea coat.

    Spoiler alert for those who haven’t yet seen Spectre…

    …I’m assuming Bond got rid of that silly signature PPK from Skyfall, then, if Mr White could use Bond’s gun to kill himself.
    Imagine him picking up the pistol and it beeping and Bond having to say
    “Oh, sorry, only I can fire that. Shall I?”
    “Would you? Oh that’s very kind of you.”
    Bang.
    Then Madeleine would have to watch that later on. Might change their relationship a tad.
    But no. Instantly ignored one film later.
    It’s almost like the four (that’s four) scriptwriters forgot what they included in their last film!

    • That’s an amusing idea, but he loses that signature PPK midway through Skyfall in the komodo dragon scene, after which he goes back to using a standard PPK. That’s how M is able to fire it during the final battle in Scotland.
      And if he were using a PPK with the palm-print sensor in this scene then it would be useless, since he’s wearing gloves!

      I’d read that Crockett & Jones had supplied both the Radnor and Northcote boots to the production and had assumed that one of those two styles were used for this scene here, but apparently not. Perhaps they weren’t used after all, since I think he’s still wearing the Danner boots later on when he goes to meet Madeline Swann, but I could be wrong.

    • The signature gun was lost in the dragon pit in Skyfall and didn’t even return in Skyfall’s later scenes. Gadgets really have very little track record of returning from one Bond film to the next.

      Anyhow, the outfit looks warm, which I presume was the intent. Bond is dressed both practically and stylishly here.

    • Kyle and FS

      Good points! Certainly more thought out than mine.
      I still wish we could get some new really good writers for the Bond films. Just one voice rather than four who’s ideas all clash, contradict and dilute each other. Michael Wilson co-wrote four films and seems to have written most of Licence to Kill himself because of a writers strike, I wish he’d have another go.

  2. Bond looks awesome in the Altaussee scenes. The jacket has a good blend of function and design. The high armholes are both flattering and functional. I think it’s a well executed outfit from the movie’s costume designers.

  3. Am I the only one who thinks that Bond looks a) fat and b) like a hipster in that outfit? Especially on the first picture it seems like he had a huge beer belly underneath his jacket.
    And that cap!

    Why can’t they just dress him in Tweed if he is in cold weather? Or at least – like in Skyfall – in some Barbour jackets?

    Maybe I am missing something here.

    • I think this is the difference between ‘It’s a little bit cold, better pop a jacket on before going out’ and ‘boating across an unsheltered lake in the Austrian winter’.

      You’re allowed to dislike the outfit- I don’t particularly like the coat myself; a longer hem and buttons hiding the zip instead of the other way round would be better- but it really does look very, VERY cold there. Probably needs something a little more than a simple tweed or waxed cotton.

    • While I’m sure you aren’t the only person with this view, I think you’re wrong. Bond would look ridiculous wearing tweed in this scene. Likewise, I’m not sure a waxed cotton jacket is appropriate for extreme cold. Wool is obviously the best choice, both for the coat and the hat, which recalls Lazenby’s ski cap in OHMSS. Again, I don’t see anything here that’s objectionable.

    • I think Craig is fattest in Spectre. But of all the Bond’s Moore is the fattest. However both men were in significantly better shape than an average person. Craig probably used steroids and growth hormone to achieve the significant gain in muscle mass for CR and after Cowboys and Aliens for Skyfall. This can cause “GH gut”.

      I doubt Tweed would be appropriate in this climate. I also don’t think this outfit is very practical. Similar to the skiing outfit it looks good on film but he probably wore a big Canada Goose parka in between takes to keep warm.

      Personally, I hope the rumours are true and Spectre will be Craig’s last Bond. He has done some good films, and he should quit while ahead.

    • I think the jacket makes Craig look pudgy – when we see him in his shirt sleeves in the scenes in Blofeld’s lair he still looks trim and fit.
      I don’t know how anybody can say Moore was the fattest Bond after seeing Connery in DAF. Moore was at his heaviest in OP, and he still doesn’t look as paunchy as Brosnan in DAD.

  4. I agree – it does look very cold. Personally I think tweed and layering of cloths work nearly as good as modern functional clothing. But yes, it might look a bit too old fashioned to be Bond. Like as he’d still use a Walther PPK in a modern world. 😉

    Ok, seriously, you two have a point here. But I still think he looks fat (see first picture).

    • You know how clothes work, don’t you, Psycho? The more you put on, the warmer you stay. They call it layers. One of the consequences of this is it makes you look bulky. But it’s not fat. It’s clothes.
      http://youtu.be/dS12p0Zqlt0

      Sorry.

  5. Somehow, if I didn’t know better, I would say that is a attempt to troll us into a ridiculous “fat Bond” debate.

    Craig’s physique is easily accomplished (if one takes the time) without steroids and HGH, but with proper exercise and diet, including legal and safe supplements such as whey protein. Ten pounds of muscle is easily attainable under these conditions, and given his paycheck and his stated desire to have his Bond look like he can actually do the things he is supposed to do, I am sure he merely put in the time to achieve his physique.

    This outfit is ok, perfectly functional and appropriate for the setting.

  6. Craig looks more muscular in Spectre than QOS. He was slimmer in QOS. But in saying that I think people are being harsh on Moore and Brosnan they were middle aged older than Daniel Craig is now and was only carrying a little extra in OP and DAND. They still worked out and would have eaten alright. They just look far in comparison to Daniel Craig because he looks like a fitness model unlike stars of the past who were in average fit shape.

  7. OK, here’s the thing: I did not want to imply that Daniel Craig did gain some weight. All I wanted to say was that the jacket makes him *look* fat. And no, I don’t want to start a debate about the actors, their methods of excersing or anything like that.

    I just did not like the outfit. That’s all 🙂

    • The navy jacket could be a little more fitted. But it is that type of jacket. I don’t like beanies, even in the snow by that’s me. The style of casual wear in Spectre is very appropriate to the settings. Turtlenecks, heavy jackets, warm bombers in cold settings, light weight earth tones and breathable materials in warm settings. The Brunello Cucinelli jacket in the desert is my favourite piece from the film still. Yes, let’s not get into a debate on diet and exercise of the Bonds. I was only trying to say that there are higher standards now with fitness and physique for Bond now then the past.

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