The Suits of James Bond reader David Marlborough has kindly allowed me to write about his bespoke shirts from Frank Foster, Roger Moore’s long-time shirtmaker who also made shirts for George Lazenby in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service and Sean Connery in Never Say Never Again. Foster’s relationship with Moore began during his tenure on The Saint, and through the years Foster has made many unique pieces for Moore, including his shirts in The Persuaders with button-down cocktail cuffs and his controversial safari shirts. Foster is still one of the world’s foremost shirtmakers and operates from Pall Mall, London.
Mr. Marlborough bespoke a number of shirts from Foster in various cotton poplins, all with his familiar spread collar. He requested a taller collar similar to what Foster made for Roger Moore, though not so tall that it would ever look outdated. The height is slightly taller for a taller neck and the points are long enough that they stay under the suit’s lapels. One unique point of the shirt is the placket design—the stitching is rather close to the centre of the placket. Most shirtmakers have their own way of stitching the placket and their own preferred width, and not all shirtmakers would be willing to stray from their norms. The shirts are all adorned with simple 4-hole mother of pearl buttons, with the exception of 2-hole buttons on the blue shirt. Marlborough chose a 2-button mitred cuff for his shirts, the same as what Roger Moore wore in For Your Eyes Only. Foster’s standard includes gauntlet buttons on the sleeves.
Mr. Marlborough also ordered a dress shirt (for black tie) from Foster with a fly front and cocktail cuffs, the regular kind of cocktail cuffs with 2 buttons. Foster’s cocktail cuff design has changed over the years, and the difference can be seen between his cocktail cuffs in The Saint, Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun. Marlborough’s cocktail cuff design is the same as the cuff Roger Moore wore in The Man with the Golden Gun and Moonraker, the last time cocktail cuffs are seen in the James Bond series.