Basted for Bond: Examining Daniel Craig’s Tom Ford Clothes, Part 1

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This week’s “Basted for Bond” infographic looks at the Tom Ford suits and coats that Daniel Craig wears in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall. This infographic details the differences between the “Regency” suit jacket from Quantum of Solace and the “O’Connor” suit jacket. Breakdowns of the navy overcoat and black greatcoat from Quantum of Solace and the navy topcoat from Skyfall are also included. A graphic for the Spectre clothes will come separately after the film is released.

Basted-for-Bond_Tom-Ford

34 COMMENTS

  1. I like the Regency cut over the O’ Connor. It seemed that Bond had a more commanding and stronger appearance. I myself have my suits cut similarly as I am a shorter man. The suits in Skyfall were too fitted though I think Daniel Craig still pulled off the look well. The suits and tuxedo is where Quantum of Solace I think is superior.

  2. If the Regency had a somewhat higher, classic rise on the trousers (eliminating the display of tie between jacket and trousers) they’d fit the Bond look acceptably. As for the other model, well, let’s not open that tin of worms again…

  3. I’m also of the opinion that the Regency suits are some of the best of the whole series.

    They’re certainly not classic, but they’re experimental and interesting in all of the right ways (low rise notwithstanding).

    Should Bond wear them? Well that’s arguable. But they certainly gave him a more commanding presence than the O’Connor does. I think it’s the best “fashion” suit I’ve ever seen, I would certainly hope to buy one some day. . . When I have a spare $5,000 lying around, anyway.

    • Well, Louise Frogley’s take is going to date far better than the Skyfall or Spectre suits. Even if the fit isn’t classic, I like a trim — not tight — look. I agree they should have lengthened the rise an inch, which would have looked better with the jacket closed and allowed the slide tabs to function better. The sleeves were also a half inch or so too long, continuing Lindy Hemming’s predilection for doing the same on Brosnan and Craig (otherwise their Brioni clothes were quite well tailored). Spectre’s suits are a little better tailored, but still not very Bond-like. I don’t think Temime realizes the skinny suit is not actually doing very well in fashion. It was already getting passé three years ago. Some fall previews I saw included wider lapel, wider shoulder suits with a looser fit than has been fashionable for the last decade. Some are double breasted and some even have pleated trousers! Trend (made by the same people as Baroni), a brand we carry at our store, is introducing a suit similar to Ford’s preferred proportions called the “Ardito”. Their usual “Fresco” model has narrow lapels, narrow shoulders, and quite a close fit all around. They probably know proportions are starting to bounce back in fashion.

  4. This is a very beautiful info graphic, and very helpful, only 1 thing is off about it is that the dinner jacket in QoS has a lapel hole not the skyfall dinner jacket, if you custom order it from Tom ford they will give you these details and indeed if you go back and look at the film you will see it there.
    Cheers,
    John

  5. Nice work as usual Matt. Seeing the styles in detail like this really shows how different the suits are in QoS and Skyfall.
    I totally agree with Timothy above that the QoS suits are some of the best interesting in the series. I especially like the dinner jacket. Although if I do have $5000 lying around and want something like this, I’d probably opt for something custom made. It really is a shame the movie didn’t do better. If it did, Louise Frogley might have returned for Skyfall.

  6. Matt,

    I don’t remember seeing the tuxedo pants in either film having turnups. Isn’t it customary to wear tuxedo trousers with plain hems?

    • Bond’s formal trousers never have turn-ups. Oddly enough, the trousers on display at either Madame Tussaud’s or Designing 007, or both, had turn-ups on the Quantum of Solace dinner suit, though the turn-ups were not present in the film. Since the cut is the same as the regular trousers, I did not feel the need to include them separately here even though the formal trousers have a stripe down the legs and plain hems.

  7. I love the sleek fit and fabrication, Bond never looked better and prepared for spy action. It’s amazing how he can stay in fashion action hero mode and come out GQ worthy still, shakened and not stirred. The new super hero…fashion spy. My husband”S favorite movie icon.

  8. Is the O’Connor basically the same 3-button style that was popular in the late 1990s?

    I’ve read that this style looks best on taller and thinner men, so I’m wondering why the costumer designer chose it on Craig, who is has an athletic build.

    • The style that was most popular in the late 90s had no lapel roll at all. This is a classic three-button style that has gone in and out of popularity since the 1930s. It’s only a problem on shorter men if the top button is done up.

  9. Why didn’t the Regencys have peak lapels? They would have made the suits in Quantum of Solace better, although they are really good. Why is it that almost all of the single breasted suits in the series have notch lapels? I would be ok with wearing a notch lapel, but they just seem plain and boring to me. I think the only single breasted peak lapel suit that Bond has ever worn was the grey linen brioni suit in Casino royale? Why has bond worn very few peak lapel suits in general? Roger Moore was the only Bond to wear a double breasted suit, so those had peak lapels.

    • Single-breasted suits typically have singe-breasted lapels (notched). Peaked lapels on single-breasted suits are more formal, flashy and simply unusual. They’re not appropriate for business, and Bond is primarily a businessman through his cover. Typically for formal occasions he wears black tie rather than a suit. There have been a few occasions when peaked lapels on his single-breasted suits would have been appropriate (like for dinner in The Man with the Golden Gun), but Bond is typically a more traditional man when it comes to his suits. Sean Connery also wears a single-breasted suit with peaked lapels when the ship sets sail at the end. I don’t think any of Bond’s single-breasted suits were ever appropriate with peaked lapels. They too formal for a linen suit and too flashy for a funeral.

  10. What type of wool are the suits made out of? I’ve heard rumors that they are made out of super 140’s, but I’m not sure? I know that the Brioni suits are made from super 150s or higher, but what are the Tom Ford suits made out of?

    • I have not heard anything about Bond’s Brioni suits being made from Super 150s wool or higher. I’d expect them to have lower super numbers, since Super 150s makes no sense for Bond. The Tom Ford suits are made of Super 110s wool, wool/mohair blends and wool/silk/mohair blends.

  11. Would I be able to go into any Tom Ford store and ask for a made-to-measure suit in the same Regency model as in Quantum of Solace, because I really like it. Do they still make the Regency model as they do in Quantum of Solace?

    • or was it only made in those options for Quantum of Solace, because I can’t find a regency base b on sites like Neiman Marcus?

    • I believe you can still get the model in Tom Ford shops. The majority of their clothes you cannot purchase online. The internet is not the place to see the tailored offerings of high-end brands.

  12. I had someone tell me that Tom Ford is “not my brand.” I am 5ft 5.5 in in height and I have a muscular build on my upper and lower body, but they said that the Tom Ford looks too muscular on me and they don’t have clothes for my height. They also said that the shirt collars are too long for my frame. Does Tom Ford make shirts with smaller collars in length, and based on my height and build, do you think that I could wear the Regency that Craig wears in Quantum Of Solace and look good in it? If not, what brand would you recommend for me?

    • A salesman at Tom Ford told me that they can fit anyone. They sell suits in short lengths, so that should be okay for you. I don’t know if the Regency model is the best one for you, but one of them will be. They sell many different suits, so you have to go to one of their shops to really know what works best for you. There are so many variations in suit cuts across different brands, and everyone is muscular in different ways. The best thing you can do is try on different suits.

  13. If the O’Connors in Skyfall and Spectre had fit Craig well, do you think they would have looked better than the Regencys? I don’t think so, because I think the narrow overall look of the suit still shrinks Craig. The narrow lapels don’t really help. I also think that the silhouette of the Regency works much better on Craig than does the O’Connor. I wonder why Craig never informed Jany Temime that his suits were tight. Was it because getting new suits would have cost too much money? Or was it because neither Craig nor Temime knew? I do not think that Craig did not know, because it is very easy to tell when a suit is too tight.

    • Oh Craig knew. That was actually the point, he wanted something that was reminiscent of athletic skins, believing that something that was skin tight “flowed with the body” and makes total sense for a spy to wear.

      Unfortunately this shows just how little he understands how clothing works. Activewear works because of the fabric, which stretches and is meant for nothing else but activewear.
      Suits have none of those things, and somehow he didn’t realise that running around in his relatively well fitted Quantum suits was likely a lot easier than his tighter Skyfall suits.

      • I’ve also heard that either Jany Temime or Craig (he had a lot of wardrobe input) were intentionally going for a bursting-at-the-seams, “caged animal” kind of look as a storytelling vehicle to emphasize his aggression or ferocity or whatever. The suits aren’t merely shrunken overall, they particularly bulge around his large bicep and thigh muscles. Not dissimilar to athletic wear, as you mentioned.

        I would buy this explanation if they had did it differently. It doesn’t make sense, story-wise, for 007 to transition from a rough and newly-minted agent in the more refined Brioni and Regency clothes, to a seasoned and experienced operative now in shrunken O’Connor jackets. Likewise, to reflect his mental state, it would have made more sense during his post-Vesper QoS era to be wearing the ragey, near-bursting O’Connor stuff before moving on and progressing to the Regency cut. I just think they kind of got it backwards, probably because they were catering more to Craig’s tastes and Temime’s whims rather than to traditional style or true wardrobe storytelling.

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