The Basic Navy Overcoat

20

Quantum-Navy-Overcoat

In Quantum of Solace, Daniel Craig wears a navy wool overcoat over his charcoal suit in London. The single-breasted knee-length coat has a similar look to the suit jackets in the film with some of the same details. Like the suit jacket underneath, the overcoat has pagoda shoulders with roped sleeve heads, and the shoulders are fairly large so they fit comfortably over the suit jacket. The coat buttons three and has a very low button stance with the buttons spaced closer together than is typical. The lower button stance combined with the wide lapels looks very elegant, but it’s not as practical in keeping out the cold. This coat could benefit from a fly front, which would make it look even more elegant, but without the fly front it’s a little more versatile and can be worn less formally.

The front is darted and the waist is suppressed to give the overcoat an athletic silhouette. The coat has straight flap pockets with a ticket pocket, another detail that matches the suit jacket. It also has the same “barchetta” breast pocket, an Italian touch that Tom Ford puts on his rather English-styled clothes. The cuffs button five, and just like on the Tom Ford suit jackets the last buttonhole on the overcoat is longer than the others. Also like on the suit jackets, Daniel Craig leaves the last cuff button open. There is a centre vent in back. Daniel Craig wears the coat open, which would mean he’s not cold enough to button up the coat. It could also be that he had it unbuttoned in the car and left it in that state, since a long buttoned coat can be cumbersome and quite warm in a heated car.

Quantum-Navy-Overcoat-2

20 COMMENTS

  1. Beautiful coat. Can you speak a bit more about the “barchetta” breast pocket? What distinguishes it from the breast pockets favored by English tailors?

    Also, is Bond wearing a different tie here than in the subsequent scene at MI6?

  2. This is another example of beautiful clothing (and tailoring) from QoS. I don’t recall seeing any item of clothing that I don’t like.
    Cheers
    Ryan

    • I also agree with you on this. I find the Casino Royale suits a bit boxy and the Skyfall suits too tight. The ones in QoS is just right. I also think this overcoat is very nice, even if the low button stance makes it a bit unpractical.

  3. It’s impressive how just an extra bit of length (and it’s not a full length overcoat here) can change things. Here the coat looks just great, simple and elegant.
    Whereas Skyfall’s navy coat, who has a rather similar cut -three button, etc.-, looks just one and a half size too small, and is way too short.
    Although I personnaly prefer the suiting of Casino Royale, I must admit that QOS has the advantage of having a suiting that makes Craig looks considerably taller, not only the suits but the two overcoats too.
    Of course Craig isn’t short, but I guess looking a bit taller is always positive for a man.

  4. This is probably my least favourite of Craig’s overcoats. Not that there’s anything particularly wrong with it – although to my eye the low button stance makes it look a little odd. I much prefer the double-breasted overcoat worn at the end of QoS to this one as I find it has more “character” to it, although I’m of the mind that double-breasted, whether in a suit or a coat, is not appropriate for the character of Bond.

    I do love the barleycorn coat from CR, and the simple elegance of the coat from SF. While the fit of the suits in QoS appeared to me to be a big improvement from those in CR (the Brioni suits, especially the shoulders, made Craig appear block-y to me) the pagoda shoulders don’t suit Craig at all IMHO.

  5. Personally, on the general topic of Craig’s suits as Bond, I just don’t understand why Hemming, Frogley, and Temime have all dressed Craig in button three suit jackets. With an athletic physique like Craig’s or Connery’s before him, a button 2 front is far more flattering. Granted, the 3 roll 2 jacket fronts in QOS do largely create the same effect, but it seems so odd that they retained 3 button jackets for Skyfall given the otherwise extreme trendiness of the suits in that film.

  6. While the jacket may be good, count me in as one of the few here who dislike the look in this particular scene – mainly because both Craig and Dench both appear to be made up just a bit too well for the film’s own good.

    They look like mannequins in a store with excellent clothing here, rather than people going about their job.

    -Kurt

  7. Nice look, befitting the character. The Quantum clothing was good, as, I thought, was Casino Royale’s. I see Kurt K.’s point, which is a running problem in the post 1989 Bond movies. Perhaps it is the focus on fashion, ultra-luxury designers like Ford and Brioni rather than the Sinclairs and Hayward’s of the world. Nevertheless, cool look for Craig and Dench.

  8. Count me as a fan of this coat. And, more generally, of the Ford outfits in QoS.
    In Australia, we would call this a Diplomat coat. My uncle had one very similar to this, and in pre-911 days was just waved through airport customs as he was taken for a VIP! And, yes, Bond should either fasten the buttons or hang the coat up.

      • Open long coats can be caught in car doors. Could be very nasty if Bond is exiting a taxi or a friend’s car. If there is not a coat rack nearby Bond could fold the coat over his arm.

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