1974 Cyril Castle Suit on eBay

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Cyril-Castle-Jacket-Front

There’s currently a mohair Cyril Castle suit on eBay made in April 1974, only a month after the suits from The Man With the Golden Gun were tailored. This suit is roughly in the same style as the suits from that film, and the auction’s photos show many parts of the suit close-up. The size listed is 40R with a 34-inch waist, but since it measures 22 ½ inches from armpit to armpit it’s more like a 42R or 43R with an athletic drop. The mohair cloth is a basket weave of tan and white, making it an ideal warm-weather suit.

The jacket is cut exactly the same as Moore’s are from the era, except this jacket is a button one. It’s a bit more rakish, but the button one style looks perfect on Castle’s silhouette. It’s easy to see on this jacket that Castle extends the front dart down to the bottom, whilst there’s a dart under the arm instead of the typical side body. Anthony Sinclair and Dimi Major cut their suits the same way. We get a great look at Castle’s shoulder, with a little structure and gentle roping at the sleeve head. It’s a look that flatters just about everyone.

Cyril-Castle-Jacket-Sholder

One of the most fascinating things about Castle’s suits from this era are the flared link-button cuffs. As you can see, there’s only a buttonhole on the outer edge of the sleeve. On the other side, a button is stitched to both the inside and outside. The inside button is sewn with a longer thread shank to give it some ease.

Cyril-Castle-Flared-Cuff

The back has the same deep vents that Moore’s suits do, and the vents are angled outward to better follow the form of the rear and ensure they stay closed.

Cyril-Castle-Jacket-Back

The trousers have a slight flair, roughly the same as what Moore wore.

Cyril-Castle-Trousers

Darted trousers typically have the dart close to the pocket, though Castle places the dart so it flows into the crease. The dart helps the trousers to better conform to the body whilst adding comfort.

Cyril-Castle-Trousers-Front

 

The back of the trousers shows a unique placement of the rear darts. The dart is off to the side and curved, rather than the usual place of in the centre of the pocket. It also goes through the pocket instead of ending at it.

Cyril-Castle-Trousers-Back

Thanks to David Marlborough for making me aware of this suit on eBay.

Cyril-Castle-Jacket-Inside

9 COMMENTS

  1. Simply superb, with minor adjustments in the flaired bottoms, that suit is more than relevant even today. For me, the suits Roger Moore wore in the MWTGG represent one of the sartorial peaks of the series.

  2. I notice the label isn’t hidden inside the pocket, as it traditionally is in bespoke English suits (or at least the ones I’ve owned and seen).

  3. Impressive. That would still be a beautiful and durable summer suit today. Even if I will never be able to wear a Bondian bespoke suit -with common measurements, haha-, I thank David here for the information.
    Matt, you said in your article that Sinclair and Major cut their suits the same way. Didn’t you mean Castle and Major perhaps ? The feature of an extending dart on the front of the jacket is something I have never seen on Connery’s suits.

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