In the end of the first episode and throughout the the second episode of the miniseries Fleming: The Man Who Would Be Bond, Ian Fleming, played by Dominic Cooper, wears a World War II Royal Navy commander’s uniform very similar to what Sean Connery, Roger Moore and Pierce Brosnan all wore as James Bond. The uniform is made by a bespoke tailor—as far as the story is concerned—with a very clean, fitted military cut. The shoulders aren’t as built-up as one would expect, but they are padded and there’s a little roping at the sleeve head. It is double-breasted with eight buttons on four to button. The jacket has jetted pockets, short double vents and the rank insignia of commander on the sleeve, consisting of three rings of gold braid with the executive curl in the upper braid. Appropriately, the jacket is made in a dark navy, heavy serge cloth.
The jacket is tailored to a much shorter than traditional length, which helps Dominic Cooper look just a little closer to the much taller man that the real Ian Fleming was. The shorter jacket length isn’t as noticeable because the uniform is so dark. Fleming is shot in ways that make Cooper look taller, and there aren’t many shots that emphasise how short the jacket is. As a result, it ends up appearing in proportion to Cooper’s body whilst also giving his legs extra length.
The trousers have a flat front with frogmouth pockets and a fishtail—or braces—back. The back is curved up higher to be more comfortable with braces. It’s the same reason why Ralph Fiennes’ trousers in Skyfall have extending tabs that the braces attach to. The braces are beige with brown stripes. They have light brown leather ends. The braces don’t go with the rest of the outfit, but when he’s all dressed it doesn’t matter because the braces are hidden. He wears a white shirt with a long, soft point collar and double cuffs. Fleming ties his black repp tie, naturally, in a four-in-hand knot. His shoes are black lace-ups.
We even get to see what kind of undergarments Fleming wears. His t-shirt has short sleeves and a rather large crew neck opening, but it’s not quite a scoop neckline. His white pants have double reverse pleats and about a 6-inch inseam. The real Ian Fleming specified Bond’s underpants in The Man with the Golden Gun to be made of sea island cotton, which the author probably also wore himself.
Perhaps the best part of Fleming’s naval uniform is the navy greatcoat. Roger Moore briefly wears a similar greatcoat in The Spy Who Loved Me over his uniform, but we see much more of this coat. It’s a full length coat that hits mid-calf, and in such a heavy weight it’s an extremely warm coat. Fleming wears it unbuttoned because it’s probably too warm to button it up. The double-breasted coat has twelve gilt buttons on the front, with six on each side in a keystone formation. There is decorative stitching on the left front panel of the coat that frames the keystone, from the buttonhole on the bottom right across to the bottom decorative button on the left, and up the row of decorative buttons. Notch lapels allow the coat to fasten to the top. It has straight, flapped pockets, a deep centre vent, swelled edges and a half belt in back that buttons on either end. The epaulettes match the uniform’s jacket sleeves and have three rings of gold braid with the executive curl in the upper braid. With the coat Fleming wears a Royal Navy peaked cap with a black cover—which was later replaced universally with white as seen in the Bond films—and a black peak with a row of oak leaves.