Basted for Bond: Examining Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni Clothes

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The next “Basted for Bond” infographic examines the cuts and details of Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni jackets, trousers, waistcoats and coats that he wears in GoldenEye, Tomorrow Never Dies, The World Is Not Enough and Die Another Day. The main jacket example is based on the middle-of-the-road jackets Brosnan wears in The World Is Not Enough, his best-dressed film. There are special jacket variations for the longer and looser suit jacket in GoldenEye and Tomorrow Never Dies, the double-breasted blazer in GoldenEye, the button one suit jacket in The World Is Not Enough, the linen suit jackets in The World Is Not Enough (with patch pockets) and Die Another Day (with swelled edges) and others. Double pleated, triple pleated and darted trousers are represented, as are five different waistcoat styles that Brosnan wears throughout his first three Bond films, including the unique five-button double-breasted evening waistcoat from Tomorrow Never Dies. Daniel Craig’s Brioni clothes from Casino Royale will be displayed separately.

Basted-for-Bond_Brioni_Brosnan

24 COMMENTS

  1. Very nice and like the other two infographics very helpful for a quick overview of Bond tailored clothes. I assume you don’t stick to the chronological order, is there a specific order or perhaps just your personal preference Matt?

  2. Very cool, Matt. I think I’m one of the few who enjoys Brosnan’s clothing from that era. While elements of it are dated, I rather enjoy the luxurious businessman style it represents. Not very spy-like, nor as minimalist as Connery and much more Wall Street than Roger Moore, it made sense for Brosnan’s Bond whose cover always seemed to be a banker or analyst.

    • Count me among those few as well, Erik. Brosnan’s Bond has influenced my personal style more than any other; I’m particularly fond of The World Is Not Enough, but I think he looks very well-dressed in all of his films.

    • Agreed, TWINE featured my favorite suits of the Brosnan era, though I enjoyed elements of the suits in Goldeneye (a little long and loose, but not tasteless) and Tomorrow Never Dies (just a bit long). DAND had fewer suits to experience (and fit too tight, but I think that’s because Pierce put on a few pounds prior to shooting) but were very similar to TWINE in style. Honestly, I think Pierce had a very timeless style in his last two films, if you’re looking for finance-industry appropriate work wear.

  3. Very elegant,but very few Bond,in my opinion.
    A two button suits from Gieves & Hawks (that in this era was also a high profile ready to wear,like Brioni) was more appropiate.
    And grenadine & silk knit tie,of course.

    • Carmel

      Absolutely. I’ve said it here before, a decent grenadine tie can be bought for as little as £25 brand new from somewhere online like Charles Tyrwhitt (even less on eBay) and it’s the one easily affordable film-Bond related item of clothing we could all own without having to remortgage the house, ask their partner if it’s ok to spend £Xk on it or even have to be fitted for one first. A navy or black grenadine tie should be in every man who owns a shirt’s cupboard!

  4. Thanks Matt again, for a great and detailed article. I as well count Pierce Brosnan’s Bond tailoring style among my favorites (as a matter of fact, I rank his style and Connery’s as the best, period).
    To be fair, only some ties were (a bit) loud and thus un Bond-like. The tailored clothing, in my humble opinion, was timeless and elegant from Goldeneye to DAD. I always love to re-watch Goldeneye to enjoy seeing the navy birdseye suit, I woudn’t mind wearing it today ! A bit long, but otherwise great.
    Actually, it’s Brosnan’s Bond that made me became a huge fan of the Brioni style and made me start a long -and perhaps never ending- quest of affordable, small-sized Brioni suits on Ebay…

    I agreee that TWINE features some of the most timeless suits of the series. I don’t see what’s un-Bondian with them, except perhaps for the 3-piece outfit, but here the problem is mainly about the loud and geometric tie again ! It was certainly a look Tony Soprano wouldn’t have mind wearing !

    About Brosnan looking not like Bond but like a middle-aged excecutive, I think the debate is a bit like : are Moore’s brown suits Bondian or not ? Since Brosnan poses twice as a banker, the clothing choice is coherent. Plus do we want our hero to look like a real spy, ie, an anonymous guy in the crowd, not drawing any attention to himself ? I hope we we all answer : no. And if a well-tailored suit makes a man even more remarkable in the crowd today than in the 60s, let’s blame times all right, but let’s not forget that Connery’s Bond himself, in his movies, was indeniably always striking as the most well-dressed man in the room. I will grant to Brosnan’s detractors that the suits didn’t looked as luxurious and expensive as Brosnan’s though. I think this impression has more to do with the cloths Lindy Hemming used, too.

    Matt, a question, as usual ! I thought the button stance on Brosnan’s suits was a low one from Goldeneye to TWINE, not as low as the Moore Hayward’s suits, but you know, low. And a medium one in DAD. Is it the fact that the suit jackets were a bit shorter in TWINE that made the button stance became medium and not low ?

    • The button stance in The World Is Not Enough isn’t low like in Brosnan’s first two films. It’s in a very balanced medium position. It’s slightly higher in Die Another Day. The buttons are higher in The World Is Not Enough than they were in the first two films, and the jackets are shorter overall too, but the length doesn’t change what the button stance is. The button stance in Skyfall looks low, but it’s a medium stance and only looks low because the jackets are shorter.

    • The waist suppression is much less on Brosnan’s jackets, partially because the chest isn’t as full-cut and partially because Brosnan didn’t have as athletic a build. Connery‘s jackets still had a lot of waist suppression, they just didn’t fit closely in the waist because he was so athletic.

  5. I’m also a fan of Brosnan’s Bond style. I like the Roman/Military/Equestrian shoulder. I also like his lower button stance. Since Brioni cuts very differently now, which Savile Row tailor or RTW maker would you think comes closest to this style today, Matt?

    • Any of the military or equestrian Savile Row tailors can do a stronger shoulder like this. Norton & Sons, Dege & Skinner, Gieves & Hawkes, Kathryn Sargent, Meyer & Mortimer, Davies & Son, Bernard Weatherill, Huntsman and Richard Anderson are some of the tailors that are good at this look. You will have to request a lower button stance. One thing that is very different in the Savile Row look compared with Brioni is the shape of the lapel and gorge. The gorge of a Savile Row jacket is straighter and the lapels have more belly.

      • Thanks, Matt! It’s a pity that Brioni and some of the other Italian houses moved away from this style IMO. Hard to find off the rack these days. I recently went for a Tom Ford MTM with a strong shoulder, but the button stance is still a bit higher than I prefer.

      • I would have if they had not closed their doors last month. I believe they may still be doing business, but I don’t know in what capacity.

      • Tom, were not you able to choose the button stance since you ordered a suit made-to-measure ? I am surprised.

  6. Le Chffre, I was a bit surprised too. Not to hijack the thread, but my reasons for going MTM at Tom Ford was because of both sizing and for some styling options. I’m typically a 48 in other brands, but when trying on TF off the rack, I was caught between a size 48 and 50. The 48 fit me more like Craig’s, a good fit in the shoulders but tight in the body with the button pulling. The 50 though was a bit too roomy. Since I felt more like a 49 (which doesn’t exist at TF), I opted for MTM. The way they did the MTM process was having me try on a base model in a 50 (I went with the O’connor cut), and they then made measurements for adjustments to the collar, body, sleeves, and trousers. Doing MTM, I was able to select certain options that I prefer – notch lapels, removing the ticket pocket, double vents, a slightly longer coat length, and the fabric. I asked if it was possible to move the button stance down slightly (from above my navel down to my navel) and that was one change that they would not do. They were also adamant about doing five button surgeon’s cuffs (with one button left unbuttoned).

    The result is a very nice garment, and I’d probably try TF again, but I’m also interested in other options with a Roman/military shoulder and a lower button stance either from British or Italian makers. I’ve yet to go bespoke and one day I would like to.

    • With Tom Ford you’re dealing with a designer’s vision. With bespoke you need to deal with the limitations of house style, but that is typically more flexible, within reason.

  7. Matt, how would you define medium high rise trousers? Is that basically the waistband sitting at the level of the navel?

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