Modern Anthony Sinclair Style

David Mason in a grey sharkskin Anthony Sinclair suit

Since many people ask me about the new Anthony Sinclair suits and how they compare to what Sean Connery wore, I reached out to David Mason, the man responsible for bringing back the Anthony Sinclair name, to show you what the firm is making. Mason sent me a photo of him next to the replicas they made of the Dr. No dinner suit and Goldfinger glen check suit. Mason’s suit is made in their most popular cloth: grey sharkskin. The suit is an updated cut with slightly wider lapels, less drape, a higher breast pocket and narrower sleeves. But it follows Anthony Sinclair’s (the man’s) idea of soft, flowing, natural lines, and it still has the necessary ease across the back and room in the sleeve. Mason and cutter Richard Paine—who worked under James Bond tailors Cyril Castle and Anthony Sinclair—consider this to be an “evolution of the Conduit Cut.” Other things may look different on Mason’s suit because he does not have the same upper body mass that few people other than Sean Connery have.

Anthony Sinclair are very capable of making, and does make, replicas of Sean Connery’s suits, as you can see on the mannequins beside David Mason. The vast majority of customers, however, want a suit that’s more modern like the suit David Mason is wearing. Whilst Mason’s suit has double forward pleats and button side adjusters like Connery’s suits have, Mason says most people order plain front trousers with side-strap adjusters. This may be due to Daniel Craig’s influence, and Anthony Sinclair also makes suits in the trendy shrunken Skyfall style for the customers who ask for it. “We are a bespoke tailoring firm, we make whatever our customers demand,” says Mason. Unlike at many Savile Row bespoke tailoring firms, this holds true at Anthony Sinclair. Many Savile Row bespoke firms would throw you out, usually politely, if you brought in a picture of Daniel Craig in Skyfall and asked for a suit like that. Anthony Sinclair has not yet made me a bespoke suit, but I hope to have that pleasure one day.


      • I don’t think Connery’s physique changed that much, if at all, between Dr. No and Thunderball based on the various shirtless scenes in the films. Connery’s bodybuilder physique was already gone by 1961. The large drop was because of his frame if anything. The guy had very wide shoulders and a narrow waist. Even when the latter was gone, Connery was just as broad shouldered and chest as in his early Bond days.

      • He certainly looks like he’d started to gain a bit of weight in Thunderball, but it doesn’t really become noticeable until YOLT. It’s interesting to see the difference in physique between Connery and his underwater double in Thunderball – his double certainly has lower body fat and more definition, which fooled me into thinking that Connery was in better shape then!

        I agree that his drop is more due to his frame than anything else. I don’t have as severe a drop as he was reported to have – I have a 10″ drop myself (42″ chest, 32″ waist) and it can be frustrating when I see something off-the-rack that I really like. I recently tried on a beautiful purple tweed jacket at Club Monaco and the size that fit me in the waist was too big in the shoulders – it looked like something from the 80s! But then a dark brown wool blazer they had fit me like it was made for me. The strange world of OTR…

  1. Connery still had quite a demanding physique even after loosening his bulk from all the body building. In my profession, selling a suit to Connery off the rack would have been impossible, only if we re-cut a suit would there have been a possibility for it fitting do to the drop, he was bigger than people assume!

    • Difficult yes, but not impossible. He has a large frame but his proportions aren’t extreme which is an asset in a fitting.

  2. I agree with all of those comments. In Dr No he was 6’2″ and not much more than 14 stone. A lean, swimmer’s physique by today’s standards. He was somewhat more fleshy by Thunderball and than it was downhill after that. He would still have required bespoke suits to look good but nothing excessive. The most difficult and important part of any suit is the jacket and despite a more than normal drop this shouldn’t have been a major problem for Sinclair.

  3. David Mason seems to be photographed in this suit very often. And rightly so I think. It’s a wonderful suit. Personally, I think the lapels on his suit is more classic than the original goldfinger suit slim lapels.
    Is it possible that grey sharkskin is popular because people often mistook the goldfinger suit cloth as sharkskin? Or is grey sharkskin just more popular nowadays due to mad men and skyfall?

  4. I rather like the updated Sinclair suit. I would request double forward pleats and adjusters (I save plain fronts and belts for casuals) but approve of their modifications. If only bespoke suiting wasn’t so costly. And, if I didn’t live in Kansas City. Not a lot of great tailors visit here.

  5. I really like what I’ve seen of Mason’s work on here. I am especially fond of that dinner jacket with the gauntlet cuffs. When I get around to buying a dinner suit, I would love to have one with that detail.

  6. Those are three exquisite suits, I’d be proud to call any of them my own!

    I know that glen checks are generally reserved for daytime wear, does the same convention apply to sharkskin?

    • I’m a fan of Cumberbatch, I like a lot of his performances. But to be honest, I don’t think he would be a good Bond.
      But, if you want to see him as a spy, you should see Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy which I think is just a fantastic movie. The suits in the movie are also quite nice. It’s a lot more traditional than what Bond was wearing in Skyfall.
      Have you seen the movie Matt?

      • Well, if you have some free time, I highly recommend it. Some great suits are there from Timothy Everest and Huntsman. And if I remember correctly, the costume designer, Jacqueline Durran, actually worked under Lindy Hemming for The World is Not Enough.

  7. Well,i confess,my wet (and unrealizable) dream, would Cumberbatch as Bond (dress by Anthony Sinclair of course) in a remake of “Moonraker” faithful to original novel,with Christoph Waltz as Hugo Drax.
    And since is a dream, set in 50s as the original.
    ( And i think that widht of lapels in a coat of Anthony Sinclair in 50s was not much different than the lapels of David Mason’s suit).

  8. Guys, when are you going to get this straight? In Dr No, Connery was measured at T&A with a 44″ chest and 36″ waist. That is an 8″ drop and that was at his peak! It is in black and white on T&A’s measurement card.

    Cumberbatch as 007? you’re kidding! I would never watch another 007 film!

    Remaking the films much closer to the books would be an excellent idea.

  9. Mr. Spaiser,
    I don’t know if you have done this already, but I communicated with Mr mason over the differences between the off the peg and bespoke conduit suit. I think it would be interesting if you compared the two besides of course the bespoke one being of a better fit.

    Kind regards,

  10. I ordered MTM conduit cut suit with charcoal sharkskin 130s carlo barbera few weeks ago and waiting for my completed one in here S.Korea. Since in Korea, Italian style and patterned suit is more famous than English design past few yrs so many of my pals in the community looking forward to see the Sinclair’s. I think the image above which he wore and in torso is not the latest design these days. Although the slimmer lapel is for original Connery’s bond look, the RTW suits displayed in are have much wider lapels; seems the widest width is almost 9cm.


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