Dream House: Double-Breasted Suit and Overcoat

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Daniel Craig wears a double-breasted suit with a double-breasted overcoat in the 2011 film Dream House. This double-breasted suit is not a suit James Bond would wear. The cloth is a fancy stripe with sections of fine brown and blue stripes between thick medium blue stripes, which are bordered by navy stripes that are half the thickness of the medium blue stripe. It’s also hard to imagine James Bond wearing a double-breasted suit again, but Daniel Craig looks good in it. This one has four buttons with two to button. Craig only buttons the top, but since the button stance is rather high it would look better with both buttons fastened or just the bottom button fastened, like how the Duke of Kent and the then Prince of Wales wore theirs. It has straight shoulders with roped sleeve heads, a clean chest and slightly narrow lapels. There are four buttons on the cuffs, flap pockets and double vents. We don’t get a good look at the front of the the trousers, but they are probably flat front. They have a plain hem.

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Skyfall isn’t the first time Daniel Craig wears a tab collar. Craig’s white poplin shirt has a tab collar and double cuffs. The collar is is narrower than the collar in Skyfall, making it look more old-fashioned whilst also being less flattering to Daniel Craig’s face. His tie is navy with a printed pattern in medium blue, which matches the colours of the suit’s stripes. it’s tied in a four-in-hand knot, which is the only knot that will fit in such a narrow collar. The silk pocket handkerchief is medium blue with a thick navy border, also pulling from colours in the suit. His shoes are chestnut brown derbies, but he makes the mistake of wearing a black belt with his suit trousers. It’s something he’s done again in the Bond series as well, but at least when he has the jacket on the belt is hidden.

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Over his suit, Daniel Craig wears a rather unconventional Chesterfield-style coat. It’s neither as dark as the traditional Chesterfield nor does it have a velvet collar—which isn’t necessary for the coat to be a Chesterfield—but in all other ways it fits the name. It’s difficult to wear a double-breasted overcoat with a double-breasted suit since there are so many layers in front. The double-breasted closure has six buttons with two to button and the hem hits just below the knee. The overcoat has set-in sleeves, darts in the front, three-button cuffs, a breast pocket and slanted hip pockets with flaps, which are for the most part kept tucked into the pocket. The cloth is a light grey and dark grey glenstripe, which is like a Glen Urquhart check sans the crosswise overcheck. The warp alternates in sections of four light and four dark yarns with sections of two light and two dark yarns. The filling just alternates with two light and two dark yarns. With the overcoat, Daniel Craig keeps warm with red-brown leather gloves.

It’s a flashier outfit than James Bond would ever wear. Whilst it’s not particularly fashionable, it’s very stylish. The suit’s cloth, cut and style along with the tab-collar shirt gives this outfit a very 1960s look, making it one of Daniel Craig’s most interesting outfits outside of the Bond series.

Dream-House-Chesterfield

17 COMMENTS

  1. Haven’t seen the film so really couldn’t comment. An interesting side note however, most designers this upcoming season are liking double breasted but with only 2 buttons but placed high. Whether these actually get made or just die on the runway will be interesting to see.

    • Perhaps the fabric is a bit flashy, but – from what little is seen of the jacket in the top thumbnail – it is anything but effeminate.

      That said, I won’t negate the fact that the natural shoulders may be working against him – in conjunction with the narrow tab collar. The two details work together to make his head appear huge.

      -Kurt

      • The shoulders look alright to me, but I agree with you on the collar making his head look huge. A collar that narrow really doesn’t flatter anyone. It’s commonly said that a wider face is best balanced by a narrower collar, but a collar this narrow makes a big head look like a balloon on a string! And there’s nothing wrong with Daniel Craig’s head.

      • Indeed.

        Incidentally, the very first thought into my head – after seeing that first image – was: “Someone dressed up Daniel Craig as Lord Brett Sinclair.”

        An hour later, I’m still stuck on that thought.

        -Kurt

      • The longer, more spread Tom Ford tab collar looks better on him and I think more people in general. I wish more tab collars were made this way. The difference is that the actual tabs are stitched on the underside of the collar rather than between the halves and not to the edge. Those aspects balance it out a bit more than this one.

  2. I think he looks good here. I happened to see a picture of him at the SAG awards and the suit he was wearing was even worse than the Skyfall suits. I’m losing respect for Tom Ford if he was indeed the maker of this latest suit.

  3. I wondered why I’d never heard of this movie. Then I looked it up and saw it scores a mighty 6% on Rotten Tomatoes.

    Does this mean that this suit is actually the best thing about the film?

    • I haven’t actually watched it yet. I watched the first 5 minutes, which is the only time Daniel Craig wears a suit in the film. It’s the only movie I’ve written about here that I haven’t seen. I know someone who saw it when it came out and he said he really liked it.

    • I actually think it’s a very good mental thriller. It has great performances by Craig and Weiss and, although slightly predictable, a interesting plot and character development that sets it apart from other films in the genre.

  4. I wish they’d let Craig grow his hair out more for James Bond. This style suits a suave, debonair secret agent more than the military cut he was sporting in the last one. It also makes him look younger.

    • Jovan, I was just thinking the same thing !
      More hair and a shave make him look quite charming, while in Skyfall, well, I remember somebody compared him to Gollum, well, he or she had a point…
      That said, his haircut in Casino Royale was perfect I think.

  5. I think the coat looks great, although the cut seem a bit tight.
    Not mad of the DB suit with narrow lapels and a high button stance (or any of this kind), I think a DB suit should always have medium or large width lapels, otherwise it losts almost all of its interest. And the narrow lapels combined with the thick tie and tab collar make his head look really huge indeed !

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