Which of Bond’s most fashionable suits do you find least attractive?

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As suggested by The Suits of James Bond reader “Le Chiffre,” I am giving you the opportunity to vote on which of Bond’s attempts to be sartorially fashionable you find to be least successful. Choose the one you think is most inappropriate for Bond, the one you think is most dated, or the one you just don’t like. Here are your three options:

1977-Brown-Silk-Suit1. The Spy Who Loved Me (1977): A silk suit in a light brown colour commonly associated with the 1970s, with wide lapels, swelled edges and flared trousers. Read more.

1989-Dalton-Suit2. Licence to Kill (1989): An oversized suit with wide shoulders, low notch lapels, a low button stance and triple-reverse-pleat trousers. Read more.

2012-Glen-Urquhart-Suit3. Skyfall (2012): An overly-tight suit that unnecessarily pulls and creases, with narrow lapels, a short jacket length and low-rise skinny trousers. Read more.

Which of Bond's most fashionable suits is the worst?

  • The Spy Who Loved Me (37%, 1,067 Votes)
  • Licence to Kill (35%, 1,015 Votes)
  • Skyfall (29%, 840 Votes)

Total Voters: 2,922

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If there’s another Bond film that you think has worse clothing, please feel free to mention it in the comments below.

111 COMMENTS

  1. By far the worst outfit was the pink shirt and horrific tie in Diamonds Are Forever when Connery goes to Willards White house, that was a complete mess in my mind.

  2. Wow this is a different article than is usually issued.
    Out of the three choices I have to go with the suit worn by Daniel Craig simply because out of the three it looks like something the young “boys” would wear. He is mutton dressed as lamb so to speak. The others however don’t give off this vibe. As with Dalton, I’d rather the suit be too big than too small.
    Cheers
    Ryan

    • Craig’s suits in Skyfall may be overly fashionable and too tight, but at least they have excellent fabrics and English detailing like straight shoulders and slightly slanted pockets. If they were fitted the way Ford intended them to fit as seen on the AJB forums when members tried on the O’Connor model in store or how Ford had Firth’s Falconers fitted in A Single Man, then they would have likely been among the better suits of the series’ recent history. Dalton’s suit in The Living Daylights is more troubling at its core. The extended shoulders,baggy fit and triple reverse pleats create a very un-English silhouette.

      Moreover, when it comes to Bond, I have to disagree with Ryan about preferring too big over too small. Bond is a man of action. As much as the poor fit of the Skyfall suits offends those of us who know better and their trendiness in that aspect conflicts with Bond’s characterization in the film as a very old-fashioned character who represents he best of the old ways, at its most basic, a slimmer, more athletic cut seems more fitting for a government assassin. The full cut 80s look that Armani became famous for always conjures up the image of corporate fat cats trying to hide the extra girth at their waistlines and be more comfortable as they sit at their desks all day, at least in my mind.

      None of the above should be taken as a defence of Skyfall’s tailoring or saying that all full cut suits are evil, just a weighing of a lesser of two evils.

  3. I voted for Dalton’s outfit.

    The other two suits certainly bear the sign o’ the times, but the Licence to Kill suit has no redeeming features whatsoever, now or then. It looks like it was grabbed off the rack last minute and sort of swung around Dalton’s shoulders. It’s too large, the padded shoulders are massive, and then there’s the tie-less look to finish it off.

    If the black tie outfit from Licence to Kill was included, this would not even be worthy of a poll.

    I very much like Mr Dalton, but from a sartorial point of view, he was dealt a very bad hand.

    • Dalton’s dinner jacket truly was pretty awful.

      That said, I actually don’t find his the most offensive outfit out of these three.

  4. I suppose that Moore’s hideous blazer/norfolk jacket from TSWLM doesn’t count as a suit or it would certainly be a winner.

      • but its far too cluttered and fussy..look at all the details that serve no purpose. Not only is it not something that the character would ever wear but it positively screams ostentation. Elegance is understated.
        As to whether or not the three suits fit, I shall refrain from pointing out that an outfit as hideous as that the fit is irrelevant, and merely say that all three suits fitted the way they were intended to by highly skilled film personnel who worked to create a look for the character.
        The 70’s , 80’s and modern suits fit as they were intended to in their respective eras.

      • I think you’re giving the costume designers more credit than they deserve. Suits can fit larger or smaller and still fit well. Pierce Brosnan wore the same full-cut, wide-shoulder style as Dalton in the later season of Remington Steele, yet his suits still fit well. Perhaps the story could explain the poor fit of the dinner suit and navy suit, but since the charcoal suit at the beginning—when Bond is still in top form—is identical that explanation is no longer valid.

  5. Without question, Craig’s suits in Skyfall. Even the baggy garbage of the 1980’s looks as if the wearer is putting some sort of effort into their professional image – if a bad job of it.

    Craig’s appearance reminds me of the recurring 1960’s sitcom jokes wherein a tall fellow – under some pretext or another – has to borrow a suit that’s too short for him.

    As for Roger – well – I’ll tolerate any color suit if it comes with a cut as sublime as what’s shown here (or anything pre-Hayward). You can thank his Cyril Castle suits for inspiring me to design the following bastard child between a blazer and a half-Norfolk jacket:

    http://kurtkaminer.com/studio_1.jpg

    Of course, the tailors screwed the fit up completely, but it’s close enough after two trips to the alteration shop…

    -Kurt

      • Thank you. I hadn’t planned on overdoing the half-Windsor knot as it turned out, but I put it on in haste; I came to the studio in a short-sleeved shirt (what else do you wear when it’s 95 degrees outside?).

        The tie is a period piece (rather conspicuously labeled for Club International – !), though reverse-striped from a regimental tie. A bit of a homage to Moonraker, if nothing else.

        -Kurt

  6. While each suit clearly represents the peak of a particular trend, I struggled making a selection. I feel the brown is still elegant and well tailored, so it can be forgiven its trendy nature. The Dalton suit is regrettable for its sloppiness, but is timeless in its “working man” fit. It seems like a suit that can still be found in the closets of pragmatic, non-style conscious men. Which is how Dalton interpreted Bond.

    Ultimately, I think the Skyfall suit is the least forgivable as it is rare that a suit trend has ever skewed so tight and I think this will date it to the early 2010s. Craig’s previous suits fit him well and enhanced his build while giving him a sense of elegance. These suits do the opposite. The fit makes him appear smaller, sloppy, and worst of all, older than he really is.

  7. As much as I like Dalton’s Bond, I have to agree with Brandon and Bart… Roger Moore’s suit was never a contender for “worst ever”, I see the Skyfall suits as nice but with an extreme concession for 2012 fashion (just as Roger Moore’s suits were very nice in themselves with their own 70’s touches that date them – the trousers on that suit are essentially bellbottoms) where as Dalton’s suits weren’t really all that nice to begin with. And as irritated as people are with how much the overly tight look will date the film, you do have to remember that is it somewhat intentional given Temime wanted a 2012 look for a 50th anniversary film, which while not necessarily Bond-like in the strictest terms is somewhat understandable for a costume designer to want to do.

    And at the very least the fastening button on the Skyfall suits is where they (reasonably) should be and not hiked up 2 inches, which is the worst thing about modern suits to my eye. It will be interesting what the suits in the next film will turn out to be, though I guess some of that will depend on if they keep on Jany Temime or not… Rather wish they’d bring back Lindy Hemming given her worst crime to Bond (IMO) was wearing a belt with a waistcoat…

  8. Why can’t we get a proper English tailor to dress Bond? I would recommend Kathryn Sargent who was the first female head cutter on Savile Row at Gieves and Hawkes and now has her own tailoring business in Sackville Street. I had my first bespoke suit ever made by her and she has, in my opinion, the perfect blend of tradition with modernity.

    • Using a proper English tailor would cost money, compared to getting free suits from Tom Ford. They also wouldn’t be able to complete the number of suits required for the production in the amount of time given.

      • Yes, I see that argument. However, is it really necessary to have so many suits available?They seemed to manage perfectly ok in the earlier films and FRWL had one of the most violent and visceral fights of all Bond films.

      • You’re right. Besides, this fight still looks ok today and is quite entertaining, while being realistic too. Today’s fights, wheter it’s a Bond movie or not, are much too speedy and too “professionnal” in their stunts to be enjoyed, in my opinion.

      • Furthermore, as I believe you have mentioned yourself a few times Matt, Ford does know how to cut some excellent classic yet modern Saville Row-inspired suits (with details like roped, straight shoulders, button stance at the natural waist, slightly slanted pockets,, double English forward pleats, etc). The costume designers, Frogley and Temime, just seem to have made poor choices when ordering suits from Ford’s collections – messing up the fit, choosing overly flashy fabrics, etc.

      • Of course. However, the Pagoda shoulders and higher button stance/lower rise trousers combo of the Regency line suits worn in Quantum of Solace could have been improved upon. The way Bond’s tie and shirt kept peaking out from under his fastened button bugs me every time I see it. I think the perfect look for Craig as Bond would have been the Regency cut with Skyfall’s English straight shoulders and the higher rise and classically tapered leg of Skyfall’s O’Conner dinner suit’s trousers. The closer, athletic fit would have been in line with modern trends but without the fashionable pitfalls of either the Regency and O’Connor designs.

      • Given that the problematic suits in LTK came courtesy of a female costume designer – named Tillen I believe – and this Temime woman is responsible for the most recent atrocities, is it not more sensible that a male costume designer be employed for future outings? As far as I can see these ladies know damn all about male tailoring. And, I don’t agree that suits couldn’t be produced in sufficient volume. Angelo produced seven versions of the silk suit in “Moonraker”. How many versions are realistically necessary?

      • I believe the suits required for Skyfall numbered in the hundreds, although I defer to Matt on the exact amount.

  9. These three suits can be used as stand-ins for the state of the Bond franchise at that time.

    While it’s easy to disdain the styles of the 70s, there’s no doubt that Moore’s suit was fashionable for the time and fits him well. There are many — myself among them — who dislike his glib, milquetoasty characterization of Bond, but at least it was consistent across those films and very popular with younger audiences.

    Certainly, Craig’s suit is too tight and I agree with whoever said it makes him look like like a Ukrainian gangster. But I think that’s rather the point of three most recent films — a return to the hard-edged, violent Bond of the first two Connery films.

    Dalton’s suit is emblematic of how lost the franchise is at that point. It’s just going through the motions with no internal propulsion from the character, since the writers don’t care who the character is enough to know he would never wear a slouchy, off-the-rack outfit like that.

  10. Dalton’s are the worst, hands down! Even though Sir Roger’s may look dated, it is still impeccably tailored. I wouldn’t be afraid to wear Sir Roger’s colors today if I had my suits tailored like his… Even though Craig’s suits are too small they still look ok if he just stands there and doesn’t have to move, unlike the suits of Mr Timothy “off-the-rack” Dalton.
    Interesting that people actually prefer Dalton’s choice over Sir Roger’s in the above pictures…

  11. Matt, thank you for accepting my proposition. I didn’t know there was so many readers here, that’s great !
    I must say it was quite difficult to choose between Dalton’s and Craig’s suits…
    About other terrible outfits, Connery’s linen suit in DAF doesn’t really deserve such hate : it’s only the tie that makes the ensemble look so bad.
    About Moore, I think his navy leisure outfit of LALD is just his worse suit of the series. Since we barely see it after all and since it’s not really atypical lounge suit, I will forget it…

    Do you think you could make another poll, about the best timeless-looking suit this time ? So we won’t get a sartorial depression !

      • I agree, Matt. A favourite suit would be pretty much impossible as views are so wide and subjective. Just a suggestion but you could take one particular sample suit from each of the tailors who provided for Bond from Sinclair right up to Ford and come up with some poll based around that. As I say, just an idea.

  12. Why no Sean Connery suit? There are plenty of outfits in DAF that are far less attractive examples of 70s fashion that the TSWLM outfit.

    For me Craig wins this hands down – his ‘Norman Wisdom’ look in Skyfall is a sartorial nadir for the series and for me he is rapidly becoming ‘Fashion Bond’. It is clear that he dresses/is dressed with fashion in mind but it isn’t working out at all well. It would be nice if they gave him a make-over in the next Bond, really found a style for him that had a bit more thought about it.

    Dalton never really found a style beyond ‘Man at C & A’ — there was no consistency between the clothes in TLD and LTK even through they are only a few years apart but I suspect this was all part of the ‘never mind the clothes, let the acting do the talking’ knee jerk reaction to Roger Moore’s departure.

    Also it is a very American thing to say ‘I wear this outfit and it gets me compliments from beautiful/intelligent women so it MUST be right’ – that means they have similar taste to you, it doesn’t make them right.

    • Do you really think Connery’s suits in DAF are much worse than Moore’s outfit ? Connery’s suits remain pretty timeless in this film, with sober colors and cloths, the only trouble being perhaps the rather wide pocket flaps. His suit trousers didn’t have the main particularity of Moore’s 70s suits : flared trousers.
      The TSWLM suit pictured in this article has very flared trousers, which are not pretty timeless or elegant, even if it’s Sir Roger Moore who wears them !…

    • James, Although these comments follow on from my skirmish on foot of the previous post thanks for the support and reasoned, common sense

    • Agreed. Brosnan’s Brioni suits in Goldeneye were definitely of the period, but still very classy. TWINE has the best suits of Brosnan’s run and some of the best of the series.

      • Your right. If Craig took some inspiration from Pierce’s wardrobe (suit wise anyway) he wouldn’t be going too far wrong.

    • Quite so. Actually, I think only his blazer outfit in Goldeneye looks a bit dated now -and mainly because of the trousers rather than the jacket.

      • I think the outfit looks off because of the unbuttoned DB jacket.

        Besides a more relaxed fit, I think the only item dating the Goldeneye suits is the longer jacket length, possibly the ties as well. The abstract and often printed geometric ties of the 90s are easy to spot. I like Brosnan’s ties, but they are a little more of the period than Connery’s or even Craig’s (which are surprisingly classic, considering his Skyfall suits).

      • I agree that Craig’s ties are great. The biggest problem with the Skyfall suits is the fit. If he lost some body mass and was about 3 inches shorter the suits would look perfect.

      • I don’t mind a long jacket. It may be longer than a classic length in Goldeneye, but on a tall man it’s never a big problem. Actually, the Goldeneye suit jackets remind me of the North by Northwest suit coat in term of length.
        I quite agree about Brosnan’s ties (especially in Goldeneye) being a little loud, and thus dated. But I like them a lot too. It’s a nice change from Connery’s and Moore’s (the 80s period) sober choices. But sober colors and patterns are certainly more timeless.
        Since the poll was about suits, I tried to forget the shirt and tie of the wearers. Because if you “include” it, then Craig got a point (even if I am not mad of closely fitting shirts, it’s a well tailored one ) and Moore may loose one !

      • Perhaps I’m just a sucker (or a little nostalgic for that era) but Brosnan’s outfits always seemed elegant. However, the enormous/bold ties and Italian fit added an element of luxury. He seemed like a very well appointed banker or investor. Different from Connery for sure, but I think that style carried over a little into Casino Royale.

  13. Tough choice.

    Moore’s suit isn’t worth discussing. Easily better than the other two. But between Dalton and Craig I’m very torn.

    Dalton’s is very sloppy, and appears to be ill fitting because no one cared.

    Craig’s is very fashionable, and appears to be ill fitting because people cared too much!

    Though both are horrible and annoying, I can forgive too big more than too small. Plus I hate ankle bashers!

  14. To answer the question that was actually asked (which do you find the least attractive), I find Roger’s easily the least attractive, and actually quite ugly. It may be nicely tailored, but the brown-on-brown-on-brown with super-flared legs (best seen in the actual post on the suit) is awful. At least the other two suits are in keeping with the character, the new sobriety both actors brought to the role, and are no more of their time then Roger’s. Also, I find Roger to look very stiff in the photos.

    And I agree the worst suit was that leisure/navy one Roger wore briefly in Live and Let Die, followed by Sean’s pink tie.

  15. I write this as the owner of two ’70s suits – one bespoke by an English tailor and tasteful in charcoal, one OTR, brown and with enormous flares and lapels – and as a huge fan of Roger, but nevertheless if we were judging by the photo above (I.e. omitting the trousers), I don’t see how this could not be a two-horse race. Whether or not James Bond as originally conceived would wear a brown suit is another debate, but that is a great ensemble. The suit fits beautifully, and the colours really suit Moore’s complexion.

    As for Dalton’s, though there is much to be said for his character interpretation, Bond may have treated vain and vulgar dressing with suspicion, but that doesn’t translate to sloppy attire on his part. Though normally I’d prefer too big to too small, I just don’t like Dalton’s suit, so that’s my vote…

    • I wish they kept Daniel Craig in Brioni to be honest. I think the fuller cut trousers and straight padded shoulders really complimented his physique. Despite what people think of Craig he isn’t a big man, maybe 11.5 stone? Which reinforces a previous point that the Skyfall Tom Ford suits make him look even smaller.

      • I thought Craig looked decidedly uncomfortable wearing Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni suits in Casino Royale. The Ford suits in Quantum looked much better to my eye. As others have mentioned, the only things I’d change about the Quantum suits are the pagoda shoulders and the flashy mohair tonic fabrics. But even those two things did very little to diminish the overall quality of the suits. In fact, the pagoda shoulders were still a big improvement over the Brioni shoulders in Casino Royale.

      • FS, what do you think is wrong with those shoulders ?
        Too straight and padded for an already broad-shouldered man perhaps ? I think he looked quite well in Casino Royale though, but that’s just me.
        I personnaly would prefer Craig wearing Brioni again, but with two-button jackets with a low button stance and more waist suppression. Combined with Brioni trousers, there would be no ugly gap showing the tie and the shirt just under the jacket then.
        Just my two cents.

      • I think Craig would look best in a jacket with natural shoulders. The suits in Skyfall had a nice shoulder, though it would have been more flattering if it were a little wider.

  16. No Octopussy clown suit??

    It’s a shame that the beautiful glen check fabric of Craig’s suit is wasted on something so ill-fitting. Looks to me like little more than a sausage casing.

    On one hand you have Dalton getting dangerously close to looking like David Byrne in Stop Making Sense and on the other Craig is about to burst out of his clothes like the Incredible Hulk. It’s a difficult call since they’re both in clothing that doesn’t fit, but I think Craig’s looks worse. There’s nothing flattering about wearing clothes that are too small. Though some may not like the colors or details of Moore’s ensemble at least his clothes fit!

    • “on the other Craig is about to burst out of his clothes like the Incredible Hulk” …
      Excellent ! I remember costume designer Lindy Hemming who wanted Daniel Craig to appear as “bursting out of his clothes” in Casino Royale…
      Thankfully he did not, but in Skyfall he clearly did !

  17. I think a lot of you guys are focusing too much on fit. Which of these suits do I think is the worst? Dalton. Which would I least like to wear? Moore, in a heartbeat. Craig and Dalton are a bit off in the size department, but if you turned up to any occasion wearing that flared, brown-layered disaster you’d be laughed out of the building, no matter how beautifully it fits. I voted for the LTK suit because I’ve always found those over-sized, broad shouldered things just hideous (although it’s not quite as overly fashionable as the other two choices). The Skyfall suit is gorgeous apart from the fit, the colours and fabrics all work so well, and I can’t fault the shirt and tie. A size up and it would be a real success. For the record, my girlfriend loves the tight look, and has said quite seriously she’d like me to start buying suits to fit like Craig’s in Skyfall. Obviously that’s not going to happen, but it shows a more fashion forward Bond does have an appeal. In 40 years of course it’ll be just as laughable as Moore’s silk thing is now.

    • Show your girlfriend a Skyfall suit and then show her a Quantum suit. The Quantum suit has won every time I did that. It’s not going to take 40 for Craig’s suits to be laughable. People were laughing at Moore’s 70’s clothing in the 80’s.

      • I’m afraid that a lot of young women I know would probably agree with Mark’s girlfriend. However, I find the description of Craig’s Bond in Skyfall “fashion forward” incredibly amusing because it is so at odds with how every other aspect of the film interpretes Bond as a character. He is depicted as an archaic relic with very old-fashioned sensibilities. He drives a 50 year old sports car in his private life and shaves with a straight razor. As he tells Moneypenny, “sometimes the old ways are best.” I think the way that Temime fitted Bond’s suits is failed costume design at its core because the clothes are entirely at odds with the character as he is depicted in the film. Otherwise, I have to agree with Mark that I don’t hate the Skyfall suits as much as others due because other than the fit, they are quite excellent. Great cut (if fitted as Ford intended), excellent fabrics, etc.

      • So much to say about this particular thread:
        1. Dalton’s outfit is the worst because on top of all the flaws that have already been discussed, it simply looks sloppy.
        2. I agree with Brandon on the fact that in Skyfall Bond is portrayed as an old-fashioned character, and his fashion-forward suits fit neither the characterization nor his body. For what it’s worth, my 28-year-old daughter thought he looked “shrink-wrapped”.
        3. Last night I re-watched OHMSS with my son-in-law – now that’s how you do “fashion forward”! BTW, that movie had a female costume designer, so it is possible for a woman to dress a man in a way that is sexy and fashionable without looking ridiculous. Possible but not common.
        4.

      • Gentlemen, be very careful about what your girlfriends tell you looks good. Women see an image of an actor and like that image and the dress that goes with it. It probably does look good on the actor but you may look a complete twerp dressed the same way. Regrettably, this is a mistake I have made in the past.

        Many women think that David Beckham is a superlative specimen. Is he very handsome? Yes. Is he extremely lean and fit? Yes. Do I want to look and dress like him? No way, never, with or without the tattoos!

      • For what it’s worth, my girlfriend (who is 26) nudged my arm in the theatre and asked “why don’t his suits fit?” less than halfway through Skyfall. Likewise, she finds nothing appealing about Roger Moore’s 70s suits on the few occasions she’s glimpsed one of his Bond films.

        My point being, a person who isn’t particularly invested in men’s fashion will quickly be able to find fault with a suit that is overly fashionable, no matter what era it belongs to.

        The line between each of these three suits is a fine one. We can cling to a great fit or nice fabrics in order to make an argument, and that’s good fun. But ultimately, they are each flawed and do not demonstrate good taste.

      • Can I suggest that everyone Google Picture searches ‘Sean Connery Meteor’ – its a contemporary comp for TSWLM and shows Connery wearing fashion forward styles reminiscent of The Sweeney. Though Angelo made the least timeless Moore outfits they are far less dated than what other movie stars were wearing at the same time. As such I would say Moore has great contemporary taste for an outfit in EGYPT.

        The fact that the other two are wearing formal dark grey suits in business situations but still look like a mess shows me just how far the gap is between contemporary trappings (flares, wide lapels), having no sense of style (Dalton) and picking up a 16 year old boy’s designer suit by accident (Craig). But maybe I’m missing something.

  18. I am shocked at how many men are afraid of brown and tan cloths and quick to shoot them down as dated. They might be ‘dated’ at Hooters but in Rome or Paris they certainly are not. For me knocking colours that aren’t sober is like saying pink shirts aren’t for real men (eg absolute cobblers).

    Yes flared trousers are dated. But I guarantee you that Craig’s Norman Wisdom suits will be just as dated in 10 years time. The Moore suit still *fits*.

    At the end of the day all of the opinion here basically boils down to who your favourite James Bond is – I doubt there are many Sean Connery fans who sought out Hayward and Foster and Ferragamo fans to dress them the way that I did. And that’s ok because it is the greatest debate in the world and – anyway – we all know that we’re right!

    • I don’t think there is anything necessarily wrong with brown and tan suits. I used to own a light tan suit and thought it a nice summer look and I would still get one again, albeit it is a colour scheme still very much associated with the 70s in most people’s minds.

      That said, I just don’t care for the colour of Moore’s suit here. It’s partly that its best described as beige and partly that it looks very flat. I can’t really explain it any better than that, but it just doesn’t work for me.

      • I agree with Hal. I have nothing particularly against a brown suit. Just this brown suit is not attractive to my eyes, along with the brown tie and brown striped shirt.

    • I think it is more that there is a way to make it work, but to make it work would look nothing like the way Moore is wearing it in TSWLM.

      The other two you could arguably see worn today, not necessarily fashionably, but it would seem acceptable to all but the discerning eye.

    • I think they often work well with some complexions only. Everybody doesn’t have Moore’s tan. Brown looks better in the countryside I think, it’s not a typical city color. Maybe that’s the reason.
      Otherwise, tan suits are great for summer indeed ! Tan, beige, cream… there are many choices but apparently men prefer to wear dark winter suits without a tie, sometimes with short-sleeved shirts too ! So sad.

  19. Seriously, I really don’t think Dalton’s suit is that bad. The addition of a tie may have improved the look significantly. I think the fit is comfortable.
    Cheers
    Ryan

    • I agree with this as well. And this was the fit and fashion in 1989. People on this blog always seem to attack fashions or fashion eras they don’t like, without regard for whether the suit works in the context of its time. None of the Bond suits (with the exception of Roger’s leisure suit in 1973) is really “all in” for the particular era’s fashions. And suits that we consider “timeless” (ie. Sinclair, Hayward) were also reflecting the prevailing look of 1963 and 1983. And Dalton’s suit, as does Craig’s works just fine for the context of their eras. I don’t care for the current short jacket look (the slim is fine for me, and I too preferred Brioni for Craig) but that is the style right now.

      • Connery’s suits were very traditional for the 1960s. By the time of Thunderball and, especially, You Only Live Twice, Connery’s suits were far from what was fashionable. The narrow lapels were his only concession, whilst the rest was identical to fashion from 10 years earlier. It suited the Bond character. Brosnan in the 90s didn’t look like the GQ covers at the time either. The style that Brosnan is wearing here was still being worn in 1989, and you can see it on other characters in Licence to Kill. The Licence to Kill suits are just a more exaggerated version of this, which is why I think it’s a fair comparison. Meanwhile, a year later from this suit in The Living Daylights, Dalton is wearing clothes that are much more traditional and not as much of their time. Something like his tan suit would have been in Licence to Kill.

      • Matt,

        I agree with you over Connery, which is why I dated his suits to 1963. He looked remarkably old-fashioned for 1967 (good, in my opinion). But you seem to prove my point – all of the actors avoid the excesses of their eras, even Dalton. Fashionable men’s suits in 1989 can be seen in the last season of Miami Vice (which I made sure to watch every week it was on back in the day) – and Dalton looks downright stodgy compared to the fashions that were seen on that TV show. And, he also avoids the “Wall Street” excesses of the power suit/tie/suspenders seen in the 1986-1990 time period.

        I agree a tan suit as in TLD would have worked well for L2K. But a lot of that movie was not well-executed, despite my fondness for it.

      • I agree with your points. The suits in Licence to Kill are the same kind of Italian suits you would have see on Wall Street at the time, just without the accessories.

  20. I apologize for the scattered three posts today, but one last thought – Licence to Kill does take place in Miami in 1989. I have been to Miami many times since the early 1990s. No one wears suits with ties that would satisfy a traditional “Bondian” look – Bond would stick out like the proverbial sore thumb. As it is, Dalton’s suit is pretty unusual and very traditional for Miami.

    • The charcoal is out of place for Miami. Light grey, like Connery wore in warm weather, would have been more appropriate. He’s dressed neither traditionally nor fashionably.

      • I didn’t meant to suggest it was tradition to wear in Miami; I meant to suggest it was traditional and that was unusual for Miami of 1989. Or for today.

      • As a Miamian, I’ll gladly clarify Christian’s post:

        There isn’t a single person in town that knows how to dress. End of story.

  21. Well, I’ve missed the party on this one. I could spend hours responding to various things that people have said here, but I doubt any of that would be read at this late point anyway so I’ll just make a couple of basic points.

    First, I’m not registering a vote because none of these suits seem anything other than “of their time” to me – there are far worse examples of outfits that have pushed style too far in the series IMHO. I’m the same age as Craig and currently wearings suits the same style as fit as the one shown here. Back in ’89 I was working in the menswear section of a high-end clothing store and was wearing suits of the style and fit of the one that Dalton is wearing here (not just the cut, the fit as well – as was every other guy I knew at the time). Finally, if I had been an adult in the 70s I’m sure I would have been wearing what Sir Rog is wearing in that picture.

    As other people have mentioned, not only are these suits far from the worst offenders in the series but they’re also more subdued than what a large number of people were/are wearing in similar years. For example, if you can believe it I see mid-20s guys every day in the financial district wearing suit jackets that end halfway down their butts (which, despite what some people say, Craig’s suit jackets do not), suits jackets that can’t button up, and slim fit shirts so tight that they can’t do up the top button and try to hide the big gap with their tie (a huge tie with a big Windsor knot despite the tiny shirt collars).

    One thing I am curious about though – why the picture of Craig when he has just gotten up out of the chair and his suit hasn’t fallen into place yet and he hasn’t buttoned up the jacket? Even if there weren’t any pics of him in that suit that show the way it really fits (easy to do with a screencap) there are several pictures of him in other suits that you could have used (as all the suits fit the same). Surely you’re not trying to influence the vote..? 😉

    • I chose this screenshot because I wanted something to show the full height. I would have used the rope stripe suit but I haven’t covered that yet so there’s nothing with more information to link to.

      Which suits do you think are worse examples of fashion? There are far worse choices in casual clothing, like Moore’s light blue leisure suit in LALD, but I’m not counting those here.

      • I just changed the photo to a better one since the jacket is buttoned. It shows off how poorly the trousers fit too, and since he’s standing still he has no excuse!

      • Nice shot of the suit Matt. It clearly shows the jacket to be too short when you see the distance between the jacket end and Craig’s resting hands position. Also the jacket pulls when buttoned. This would not be so much of a crime if the suit wasn’t tailored – hence no excuse.

  22. Interestingly, Tom Ford himself has commented on how he hates too-short suit jackets, saying that they make the wearer look like a female flight attendant.
    Craig’s suit wold look great one size up.

    • He also thinks narrow lapels look like they can’t afford enough cloth for a decent lapel. Either he changed his opinions last year or he didn’t have much to do with Skyfall. He’s quite a perfectionist and I’m surprised he allowed the Skyfall suits to fit the way they did. There’s no reason why the front of the jacket can’t lay flat.

      • Is part of the problem with the Craig suit that it is lightweight fabric, making it much more likely to ruck and crease?

      • The suits aren’t any more lightweight than what we’ve seen in the past few films. Tom Ford’s suits are also heavily structured so that the front of the jacket should have no reason not to lay flat against the chest. However, a heavier cloth would better help to mask the fit problems everywhere but the chest.

      • For all the reasons you have stated Matt, I have to think that Ford had very little imput on the fit. Based on how he dressed Firth in A Single Man, I believe Ford may have come around in regards to 1960s-inspired trends, such as narrower ties and lapels, but the Falconer line used in that film was fitted very differently. The O’Connor line being sold in stores as the “Skyfall” suit by Ford (despite having a button 2 front) is fitted very differently from how Craig wears his suits in Skyfall.

  23. I can’t believe the results of the votes. Far too close IMO. I Can’t believe the amount of stick the Moore and Dalton suits have received.
    Well there you go
    Cheers
    Ryan

    • I was under the impression that most people thought they were amongst the best suits in the series, apart from the two ruffled dress shirts. Readers here have always liked them.

      • I suppose the horrid ruffled shirts and orange and brown casual wear left me with such a bitter taste that I never really took Lazenby’s look seriously at any other point in the movie. I guess I’ll have to take another look at the movie at some point.

      • Take a look at everything else. The dinner suit is beautiful if you ignore the shirts. And I don’t think the rest of his clothes could be better!

      • Matt,

        I agree wholeheartedly – I have always admired both Lazenby’s clothes and the way he wore them. The glen check suit he wears in Gumbold’s office might just be my favorite suit in the whole series!

  24. That’s curious, I actually find Craig’s new picture more flattering -or less unflattering- regarding the suit. We don’t see creases around his arm, and since he’s a bit away the jacket collar gap and the pulling at the front of the jacket are barely noticeable. Only the trousers look terrible.
    But he really appears very short in these suits. It’s a hundred miles away from the previous Tom Ford two-button suits. Perhaps we will see him in four-button or double-breasted suits in the next movie…

    • Craig’s previous Tom Ford suits in Quantum of Solace also had button 3 fronts. It was just that their lapels rolled over the top button. It is a classic American style.

      However, I really do not understand why we haven’t seen Craig’s Bond in any button 2 suits yet. It is the buttoning arrangement that I most associate with James Bond. The longer lapels create a stronger, more masculine V-shape that is more fitting for a man of action like Bond.

      By the way, Matt, since you are covering more non-Bond suits right now, I was wondering if you might cover Craig’s other suit from Layer Cake or anything of interest that he has worn in other films. It would be nice to see an article where Craig’s tailoring is praised and he looks good.

  25. I vote LTK – IMO the era was the nadir for men’s tailoring. I’m afraid I don’t buy this ‘that’s what we were all wearing’ line. I was in my early 20’s in the early 90’s (a couple of years after LTK) and sought out a budget bespoke tailor in London. The suits I had made were English cloth, 3 button SB, straight shoulders, narrow-ish lapels, waisted, double vent, flat front trs with slim tapered legs. Not far off of what Craig is wearing here. I couldn’t afford a shirt/tie maker so wore vintage or NOS (Jermyn St). Some people took the p**s but I was confident enough to know I was better dressed than them. 20 years later I still dress in much the same style (with some modifications) and, yes, receive a lot of compliments from ladies and gents alike. BTW great site.

  26. This poll has been fun. How about doing another one?

    To avoid having too many choices, the field would have to be restricted somehow. One poll that might work is Which Bond tuxedo would you wear? The choices could be limited to one tuxedo per actor.

  27. Matt, since you have covered several un-Bondian outfits recently, do you intend to cover one of Colin Firth’s suits in A Single Man ? I think it’s a good example of a nice, closely-fitting Tom Ford suit.

      • I second that request. Also, on the topic of non-Bondian suits, I would really like to see a post about a suit from Craig’s career that Matt thinks is flattering on him and from which he thinks the costume designer for Bond 24 should take some cues.

      • I think the Quantum of Solace suits are flattering on Craig, though I’m about to post something else that I think looks great on Craig. However, it’s not something that is perfect for Bond.

  28. I voted for Skyfall suit, although I dislike all three. The fabrics used in Skyfall are amongst the best in the series, but the fit is awful.

    I think the fit of the suits in Quantum of Solace is excellent.

  29. So difficult to choose… LTK was a sartorial nightmare, but fashion slim-fit in Skyfall is so not-bond, and definitely not suitable to all the things Bond do (for example, it’s near impossible to run in such a skinny trousers)

  30. Moore’s outfit is dated, certainly, but still looks pretty good. As time passes, I find the men’s fashions of the 1970s to be more tolerable that most of the fads of the 1980s and 1990s. In fact the styles common in the 1990s (in Britain at least) now look increasingly horrendous to me – suits in beige, dark brown and bottle green, button-down shirt collars, garishly patterned ties etc.

    Moore’s suit is very much a “lounge suit” to my mind, i.e. literally a suit that I can imagine being worn in the lounge of a hotel, airport, office building etc.

    Dalton’s suit is plain and shapeless – not aesthetically offensive, but ill-fitting and drab. Like something bought from a charity shop in a hurry because he “needed a suit”.

    Craig’s suit looks as if it will burst if he moves. A fashion that will hopefully pass soon, if it hasn’t already. The baggy suits of the late 1980s (in the USA) look comical, but super-tight is not much better really. A good fit is neither loose nor tight (this should be obvious, but maybe it isn’t!).

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