What Is James Bond Style?

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Dr. No Dinner Suit

Since this blog usually looks at the many specifics of Bond’s clothes, let’s take a step back and look at the overall picture of what defines James Bond style. There’s no way to make generalisations about Bond style overall, but there are a number of different themes that Bond style has followed over the years. At its essence, Bond style is about looking good in a suit, or more specifically looking good in a dinner jacket. Bond has worn much casual clothing, but it’s the tailoring that sets Bond apart from other heroes. There have been multiple approaches to Bond’s style, from the quirky styles in Fleming’s novels to the classic styles in Connery’s films to the fashion in Moore’s and Craig’s films to the continental power look in Brosnan’s films. At the end of the article you can vote for which Bond you think best represents Bond style.

When most people think of James Bond’s clothes, it’s the black tie ensembles that first come to mind. Bond’s iconic black tie looks have kept the dinner jacket alive, and Bond’s consistently classic way of wearing black tie makes him the world’s number one black tie model. Wearing black tie well is a key element to Bond style, and something that has been kept consistent through all of the iterations of Bond. But there’s much more to Bond style than black tie.

Fleming Bond Style: Personal Peculiarities

The literary Bond’s style is defined by an unassuming manner of dress with many idiosyncrasies. Fleming typically dressed his Bond in a uniform of a blue suit with a white short-sleeve shirt, black knitted tie and moccasins. This isn’t ordinarily the description of a stylish man. The literary Bond’s clothes are still of high quality (notably his silk and Sea Island cotton shirts), and because of the consistency in his dress he obviously cares about what he wears. He doesn’t just put on anything. But he really dresses down his suits and never wears anything fussy or flashy. He doesn’t come off as a fussy man or a dandy, but he is snobbish about the clothes other people wear and judges them for it, whether it’s a windsor knot or an Anderson & Sheppard suit.

The plain-weave glen check suit in From Russia with Love

Connery Bond Style: Sober Sophistication

Sean Connery’s Bond has a similarly understated and uniform approach to style that the literary Bond has. Unlike the literary Bond, Connery’s Bond can be considered thoroughly well-dressed. His style is defined by understated, classic British style. He follows a uniform of a button two suit in a grey suit—solid, semi-solid, flannel or glen check—with the occasional blue, brown or striped suit. He usually wears his suits with a cocktail cuff shirt in light blue or cream, a dark grenadine tie and derby shoes or short boots with elastic. Apart from the boots, narrow lapels and straight-bottomed waistcoats, Connery’s Bond went for a classic style that didn’t follow many trends that showed he was a man of traditional tastes. His uniform has a thoroughly, though not overtly, British look. Connery Bond style is one of a well-tailored man who knows how to put together an outfit, but it’s a understated style where nothing stands our or is overly fashionable. Though his clothes are top quality, they don’t call attention to that fact. Connery’s Bond never stands out in crowd, just as a spy should not.

Spectre-Blue-Sharkskin-Suit

1970s Moore Bond Style and Craig Bond Style: Fashion Forward

Roger Moore’s Bond in the 1970 and Daniel Craig’s Bond in his last couple of films have a fashionable or flashy style that boldly infuses trends with classic style. For 1970s Roger Moore it means wide-lapelled jackets and flared trousers occasionally in flashier suitings like silk. But the suit jackets have a classic cut and the suits are often in staid solid worsteds, chalk stripes and tweeds. For Daniel Craig it means everything shrunken—tight jackets with narrow lapels and a short length, and skinny trousers with a low rise—but made in classic suitings with traditional British details. Though Moore’s and Craig’s Bonds dress very differently from each other in execution, in concept they have a similar approach to mixing blending what Connery established with the fashions of the time. Moore’s and Craig’s Bonds always stand out as fashionable but also as men with good taste. 1970s Moore Bond style and Craig Bond style are about considering the current fashions without forgetting about how to dress like an English gentleman.

Timothy Dalton’s suits in Licence to Kill follow the fashionable edge of Moore’s and Craig’s Bond’s suits but lack all elements of classic style apart from the colours.

Octopussy-Grey-Rope-Stripe-2

1980s Moore Bond style and Lazenby Bond style: British Brilliance

Roger Moore’s Bond’s style in the 1980s and George Lazenby’s Bond’s style are about dressing in a British mode. Like Connery’s style, 1980s Moore and Lazenby follow classic British style with some fashionable touches, but their suits look more British than Connery’s due to sharper silhouettes, brighter ties and bolder suitings. They wear a lot of navy and grey, flannel and chalk stripe three piece suits in the city, and they wear earth tones outside of the city. They wear both single-breasted and double-breasted jackets. 1980s Moore Bond style and Lazenby Bond style is about being dressed classically, but with in modern edge in a way only the British can do.

Timothy Dalton’s Bond’s style in The Living Daylights fits into the British category, though there’s little brilliance in it.

Tomorrow-Never-Dies-Vicuna-Overcoat

Brosnan Bond style: Overt Opulence

Pierce Brosnan’s Bond’s style is one of a successful and worldly businessman, and it’s defined by continental power suits and luxurious overcoats. The long cashmere overcoats solidify Brosnan’s Bond’s image as a rich man. The confidence (or sometimes overconfidence) with which he wears these clothes only adds to the look. Brosnan Bond style works for Bond’s cover as a businessman who socialises with the wealthy, though apart from some subtle details, it forgets about the origins of the character. Though the strong cut of Brosnan’s Bond’s suits makes him look powerful, it translates more to money power rather than physical power. Though fashions now have moved away from the strong shoulders and full cut, a soft Italian suit could more subtly give the same effect of a well-travelled businessman today.

Which Bond best represents what Bond style is to you?

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76 COMMENTS

  1. Bond’s style is and always will be Connery, Sean Connery’s Bond. But I grew up with Pierce Brosnan as Bond and I love the look of wealth and opulence that he brought to the role. I think all the Bond’s in there way brought there own style and tried to make Bond’s style current. Daniel Craig is the Bond for today and his style represents what many younger men expect of a suave, sophisticated secret agent of our current age. But I can always find something I like with all the Bond’s style even Roger’s 1970’s cuts. In saying that Moore’s Hayward cuts in 1980’s was part of my childhood and his look in those films was very British and the Britishness is really what Bond’s style is.

  2. Great summaries and analysis, Matt! As much as I love Roger’s 1980’s style (and appreciate George’s too), my vote goes to Connery based on the question asked. And not because he was “first”, but because it is just so damn good.

    • Actually this grouping makes perfect sense to me (as does the whole mini-essay). Though “brilliance” is perhaps a more elusive term than the “fashion forward,” or even “opulence” and “sophistication,” it’s hard to think of a better way of capturing the idea of “being dressed classically, but with in modern edge.” What the Hayward and Major wardrobes share, it seems to me, is a combination of boldness and subtlety that rewards repeated scrutiny and appreciation in a way that the more straightforwardly assertive Castle suits don’t, delightful as they are.

  3. Voted Connery, though 80’s Roger is close. These days I find worsted is only used for business in the UK, and it’s very, very rare to find people in suits outside of London that are not worsted (especially in the under 60s). I own a flannel navy suit, and a grey pinstripe worsted, but also have a wool-cashmere grey glen check for the occasional weekend, and a tweed sport coat and trousers for times when I’m in the countryside.

    Being English myself, I find myself with more of a bond with Bond (ho ho) and his style of dress. Double vented jackets are the norm in my part of the world, and single vents only ever look “fashion forward” or ever foreign to me. With my posterior, double vents are far more flattering (and I would argue, they are more flattering in general).

    I do wish more people in the UK (or the world in general) still dressed well. Casual clothing actually makes it harder to get dressed, and I never think people look professional in a tshirt and cargo pants. No matter what the job. I suppose I was born in the wrong era in many senses, but what it does mean, is that I’m known for my sartorial interests in my private and public circles, as I make an effort to look good at all times.

  4. I always think that 70’s Moore is the best, from an aesthetic point of view (the Chesterfield coat in LALD and the blazer and white trouser combination in TSWLM) but, for Bond as Bond it’s the 80’s Moore for me; classic cuts, very slight idiosyncrasies and covert tones.

  5. My vote went to Connery, with 80’s Moore/Lazenby a close second. I personally prefer the overtly British look of the tailoring in Moore’s later films and OHMSS, but Connery defined the look, and did so with aplomb.

    Also, I think you could probably put Craig’s first two films in the Brosnan category of “Overt Opulence.” Casino Royale’s suits obviously fit into this category, but I would argue that the flashy Quantum suits, which exuded both physical and monetary power, were perhaps the most overtly opulent of the series.

  6. No doubt about for whom I voted but I would have liked to give my vote to Lazenby’s style, too. Connery’s is more sober and understated, but Lazenby manages to mix a little extravagance into his outfits without exaggerating and being flashy (that’s what Moore always failed at). Thus his style even gets a bit more sophisticated in comparison. But anyway Connery will remain the all-time gold standard.

  7. “Timothy Dalton’s Bond’s style in The Living Daylights fits into the British category, though there’s little brilliance in it.”
    Okay, I realise it’s standard by now to dismiss Dalton’s wardrobe – and as much as I love the film itself, Licence To Kill’s costuming is hard to defend – but his clothing in The Living Daylights is pretty underrated.

    • The ideas behind the clothes in The Living Daylights are excellent, but the execution (ready-to-wear) leaves much to be desired. This is no reflection on Dalton’s films overall.

    • The ready-to-wear aspect of the clothing does let them down, as do the 80’s-inspired wide shoulders, but I still have a fondness for some of the suits from that movie, particularly the three-piece chalk stripe suit he wears to M’s office. Still, can’t argue with your reasoning.
      Incidentally, my personal favourite of the styles you mentioned is that of Lazenby/80’s Moore, though I believe Connery’s style is the most appropriate for the character.

  8. Connery forever!
    James Bond should dress ever as the Connery’s Bond:
    A classic British cut two buttons suit,in gray,blue or (occasionally) very dark brown color, solid or with tiny,mimnimalist patterns.
    White,cream or pale blue shirt (with cocktails cuffs),solid grenadine dark tie,derby or oxford shoes (better if with elastc).
    Take the proportions ever on a classic side (as for the haircut).
    Is not difficult if you understand the character and his history: take the actor and brings him to a good British firm (for exemple Chester Barrie) or (better) to a bespoke tailor.

    • Chester Barrie are OK. A lot of Sexton influence. I have 4 of their RTW suits. Not worth full price but you can pick them up at substantially discounted prices at the end of the season. Their 38R fits me very well. The trousers need tapered and taken in but they pay to have that done.

      But I think they are half canvassed – or half fused (the glass is either half full or empty!). But they hold up OK, I have one that is 5 years old and still looks good.

    • Yes, I’m not sure exactly how they look inside. I will take one apart when it is done to see. They do 3 lines: Chester by Chester Barrie, Chester Barrie Black and Chester Barrie Gold. They have a shop on Savile Row next to Maurice Sedwell. I have 3 black and 1 gold. They are the only RTW suits I own and they are good for low key use. They retail at about £700-800 and you can get them half price in the sale.

      Their construction confuses me. They have a nice lapel roll and I can’t feel any fusing. There is definitely automated pad stitching in the lapels. You can feel loose layers inside, the chest is very structured. The salesman said they don’t use any glue – but I can’t believe that as they are quite cheap.

      I once owned a Ted Baker suit and that was where I learned what a fully fused garment felt like. You cant feel any layers. It lasted about a year! I took it apart. No canvass, no automated pad stitching – just glue and some stuff that looked like pipe insulation in the chest. I would never buy any of those again – even in the sale!

    • I’m not sure how good the construction of a Tom Ford suits actually is. I think the site where one is dissected has been discussed before here. Clearly there is a lot of automated machine work going on inside. Maybe you could call it machine canvased instead of hand canvassed. The handwork is more superficial on the outside. But even some of the buttonholes are machined.

      But I think this takes a big element of the shape away that would otherwise be shaped to the wearer’s figuration during the basting process. They must be shaped to some generic chest figuration. Probably a lot of this is worked out by computer so cutting and stitching can be automated. There maybe some hand steaming of the chest to shape it.

      This process is quite complex and might explain why the suits just don’t fit Craig. If all they are doing is punching his measurements into a computer. It is still working to a generic shape which looks more like a runway model. So all the computer is doing is scaling up/down a runway model shape.

      To make a suit really hug to Craig’s physique would take a lot of tweaking and hand work that is just not suited to mass production. Even if it is the higher end of RTW.

      http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/tom-ford.html

      • You’re underestimating the shape of a Tom Ford suit. They have far more shape than any other ready-to-wear suit I’ve seen. Jeffrey still speaks highly of Tom Ford’s suits. If you’ve read other posts of Jeffrey’s you would know that some Savile Row bespoke makers also do machine padding (though he believes it should be done by hand).

  9. Nice article Matt. How did Connery’s Bond compare to the fashions of the 60s? Was that fashion forward for the time?

    • Connery’s Bond’s clothes were mostly in a late 1950s style, but there were some 1960s touches like the waistcoats with straight hems and covered buttons. He generally avoided the fashions of the 1960s. By You Only Live Twice he was wearing suits that were at the height of fashion 10 years earlier, but still very stylish in a traditional manner.

    • This is interesting. I wonder if there is a difference between fashion forward and fashion failure. Craig’s last two films fall into the fashion failure category, in my view.

      There is wearing fashionable clothes and it working, and I would say Moore fitted into this category. Even though the clothes are clearly 70s fashion, and look dated today, they still flatter him. Perhaps as Moore got into his 50s, they thought he could no longer get away with dressing in such a way. So they toned down the fashion details post Moonraker. And moving into the 80s, that was a good thing!

      Craig on the other hand, is in his 40s, and is not slim. Slim fitting suits just don’t flatter him. If he was a slim runway model in his 20s or early 30s then maybe they would work. But they don’t.

      I think they could have met halfway between the QoS suits and the Spectre suits. This would provide a better balance between fashion and what works for Craig’s proportions.

  10. FS – I am inclined to agree on the separation of the 4 Craig films. CR is more sober than Brosnan’s general look (I really like the middle three suits – the train, the brunch, and the dinner suit), but similar. I agree that QoS is very opulent and actually one reason I don’t care for the general look of the suits in that film.

    On Connery, by all accounts, we should acknowledge Terence Young for the (brilliant IMO) “sober sophistication.”

    On The Living Daylights, Dalton was cast shortly before production started. I wonder if they simply did not have enough time to get bespoke suits, or if UA’s post-1981 budget problems led them to the RTW. Dalton, though, was apparently consistently trying to dress down the character, which John Glen was against but went along with (Some Kind of Hero, p.402-402).

    One nice touch of the You Only Live Twice, “outdated” suits, it is nice to see a character that doesn’t look like he just went shopping yesterday. Having a suit a few years old actually grounds the look in more realism than Craig’s fresh-off-the-Tom Ford runway look.

  11. Why is it that 95% of only Pierce Brosnan’s and Daniel Craig’s suits are 3 buttons? My personal favorite is Craig not just because of the way that he acts as bond, but because of the way he looks as bond. Having 3 buttons, in my opinion, shows you to be more sophisticated, more elegant,etc than having just 2 buttons. I have noticed that all the Bond actors except Connery wore at least 1 3 button suit? Why is it that for Brosnan and Craig, 3 buttons are the primary option, but for all the other actors, 2 is their primary option? Why did Connery never wear a 3 button suit?

    • Connery wears three button tweed jackets in Diamonds Are Forever. Except for Craig’s three-button suits, the other actors follow the trends at the time. Lazenby in the 60s and Moore in the 80s wore some three-button suits when they wanted to dress more traditionally.

  12. I don’t agree that “Connery-Bond’s clothes were mostly in a late 1950s style”.
    This can be partly true for “Doctor No”,but that movie was shot in 1962,very close to late 50s,and in 1961,62 and 63 President Kennedy was dressed in two buttons suits not much differents,with few concessions to the fashion trends.
    More,in 60s the most of the men not follow obsessively the last trend,especially in Europe where bespoke tailors were still many.
    If you see a site of British vintage suits like “savvy row” or “Ogspear” on ebay you can see that the British bespoke suits are never too much fashonables: sure,can integrate some feature,but in a classic way.
    See for exemple this beautiful Bernard Weatherill suit of 1965:

    http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/suits/products/dc0801-146-vintage-1965-bernard-weatherill-savile-row-bespoke-navy-blue-pin-stripe-3-piece-city-suit-38-39-short

    Is not much different from a Connery-Bond two buttons.
    Lapels are slender but not skinny,trousers is full cut with pleats
    Here another similiar suit of 1966:

    http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/suits/products/2909-509-vintage-1966-jackson-the-tailor-heavyweight-twist-charcoal-grey-suit-39-40-short

    So the Sinclair suits for Connery were not “late 50s”,but absolutly 60s.

    • The overall style of Connery’s suits started in the late 1950s. Even though many tailors made the style of Connery’s suits in the 1960s, there’s little unique to the 1960s about these suits. Moore and Macnee at the same time dressed more in line with the trends that defined 1960s clothing. But just like now, most people don’t dress like Daniel Craig, most people in the 1960s did not dress like Moore or Macnee. Still, Craig’s style is what defines the fashions of today, just as Moore’s and Macnee’s styles defined the fashions of the 1960s more than Connery did.

    • Most people do not dress like Daniel Craig? No, they dress much in even tighter, shorter and more ill-fitting suits. That, to me, says a lot.

    • Thats interesting. Indeed it seems the “slim fit” (=skinny) fashion took hold in europe before it became a thing in USA. From what I have seen there are still many RTW stores that sell suits with a more classic fit in america. In sweden, where I live, there is nobody who sells anything but skinny, short suits with horrible fits and it seems to be the same in the other Scandinavian countries at least as well as in most of the big UK-based stores.

    • Hagensen, my experience echoes your’s. Almost everyone I see wears suits with low rise trousers (RTW has not offered anything else for several years now), and most jackets look much worse than what Craig has worn in his past two films. Perhaps that’s just Tom Ford’s quality showing through the otherwise poor fit.

    • I have to agree with you guys! This rtw trend of ultra low rise trousers, coupled with sternum level button stance ruins the aesthetics of otherwise good suits. Also, I’ll echo Tom Ford here and say that the little skimpy lapels really look like they just ran out of fabric. Why not just keep the lapels a classic or medium narrow width?

  13. That was a tough choice – Lazenby’s are my favourite, but when I close my eyes and picture Bond I see Connery – so my vote went to Connery.

  14. My vote went to Connery. I believe he was the beneficiary of time and circumstance for how the production put him together. Ultimately I believe Terrance Young really should be credited for created this look as he brought his own style to Dr No which they stuck with. Had Guy Hamilton accepted the role of director for Dr No then history would be very different I believe.

    • Ryan has a point here. I must also concede that there was a uniquely masculine feel to Connery’s unfussy elegance, even though my personal preference leans towards 1980s Moore and Lazenby style. I wonder, though, whether most of the people on this blog view Connery as the epitome of timeless, masculine style primarily because of the clothes he wore or primarily because we associate those clothes with his own unique charisma.

      • The timeless style has to do with the clothes (specifics of which I’ve mentioned in previous posts), but the masculine aspect is purely due to Connery. Soft shoulders on most men don’t have the same masculine look, though the low button stance on Connery’s suits has something to do with the masculine look of his suits.

    • Interesting that you find a low button stance indicative of a “masculine” look. I agree completely and there’s something about slanted pockets that I feel the same about. I have a Hayward hacking jacket and with the relatively low button stance, slanted pocket and ticket pocket with deep double vents, this may not be a current look but it’s far more masculine than the current shrunken look. For this reason, i actually find Connery’s DAF suits his most masculine when, somewhat conversely, he was in the worst shape he ever was as Bond!

    • Unsurprisingly, I agree with David’s assessment of his hacking jacket, The slanted pockets create the illusion of a slimmer waist, and the low button stance creates the illusion of a more V-shaped torso. High side vents, especially if they flare outwards, also make one look taller and slimmer. Another good example of this look is Lazenby’s Prince of Wales suit.

      https://www.bondsuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/OHMSS_PrinceOfWales-2.jpg

      On-Her-Majestys-Secret-Service_George-Lazenby_PoW-suit-rear

  15. Good article – nice to take an overview of the character.

    It has to be Connery for me, particularly in Goldfinger.

    That is the film that sums up Bond. Whenever anyone does a spoof of Bond or spies it is really the stuff in Goldfinger they are spoofing: the gadgets, the tricky car, the mad baddie with the quirky henchman, the punning hero etc…

    Dr No and From Russia With Love were nice films, but it was Goldfinger that cemented the world’s image of the Cold War super spy.

  16. Patric McNee clothes in “The Avengers” were for the most costumes for the character.
    None dressed like John Steed in the 60s London.
    Sir Roger it’s always been a fashion victim.
    Back then in Europe were less conformism that in United States in following the fashion trends (thanks also to the tailors that allowed a more personal style).
    Out of fashion magazines and some movies ,if you see 60s photos or footage of real persons in Europe you don’t see a perfect conformity to fashion dictates of the day.
    In USA i imagine was different because RTW market was already predominant, so if in 1965 you buy a suit, this incorporated the last fashion trends exactly as the American cars did.
    But Bond was British,dressed by a tailor and followed his taste,in European way.
    Said this the narrow lapels and ties from “From Russia with love” to “You only live twice” are absolutly 60s (on the classic side) and not 50s.

  17. Interesting matter Matt.
    What you mean about 60s style?
    60s style where?
    From what I see, in 60s were some trend in common (a clean apparence,more narrow lapels and ties),but apart from this, the difference between a country and another were a lot (hell,were a lot in the same country between a tailor and another!).
    For exemple the American 60s style was very different by average European style; i not mean only the”ivy league sack”,i mean the general apparence of the suit.
    In USA lapels and ties were very skinny,trousers were tapered often with no pleats.
    In Europe lapels and ties were not so skinny as in USA,and a lot of trousers had pleats and a full cut.
    Same for coats: a full cut,drape or clean chest depends by tailor house styles,
    60s style in UK,especially if bespoke,was different by style in Italy or in France,and all these styles were different by the American style of the time.
    So the Anthony Sinclair’s full cut coat were unlike from whom?
    More, the UK 50s style was very different: lapels more wide,a lot of double breasteds; if you take a 50s “Man about town” magazine you can see how different is the style by the Connery suits of 60s.
    From very late 60s-70s fashion trends began to be more and more globalized,even for the rise of ready to wear industry also in Europe,but in early-mid 60s things were differents.
    Were not a global,comprehensive 60s style.

    • My impression of 1960s style is something with a closer fit and narrower trousers than what Connery wore. That was certainly what Americans wore, sack or darted. American fashion was sometimes with one button, and the British fashions often had three buttons.

  18. Closer fit and clean apparence were the spirit of the times,but the way in which in the various country (and from the various tailors and firms) this was realized was different.
    In 60s British fashion had three and many two buttons,Italy three buttons,some two buttons and a lot of double breasteds,France less or more the same of Italy,but with a boxy look (until the arrival of Cardin look in mid 60s that was a sort of new Edwardian style).
    The fit was not baggy or loose,but how much close,depends by tailor and by customer’s taste; anyway a very close cut was considered bad taste.
    Often you could find a full cut coat and full trousers.
    One or two pleats on trousers were very common.
    In Italy the average size of lapels on a single breaste was 7/2-8 cm.
    American suits were much more stylized with very skinny lapels and ties.
    Over the years i have accumulated a nice collection of fashion magazines of 50s and 60s from ebay: Esquire and Gentlemen Quarterly (USA) ,Arbiter,Vestire,Costume,Moda d’Oggi,Petronio,La Moda Maschile (Italy), Adam (France), Man about town (UK),Rundschau (West Germany).
    Is interesting note the difference by various styles of 6os.
    Connery/Bond’s suits of Anthony Sinclair are definitively UK 60s.

  19. I think Roger Moore’s style is always consistently dismissed because he followed fashion trends for most of his Bond tenure. His Cyril Castle and Angelo Roma suits, blazers and sports jackets were always well cut and had a classic look even though they incorporated fashion trends of the time; notably wider lapels and flared trousers. If you look at most film stars of the time they dressed in general when in contemporary films much more fashionably and garishly. Ie. Warren Beatty, Robert Redford, even Jack Nicholson. So Moore’s clothes were always quite staid in comparison.

  20. I voted for Connery. His style is the most rememberable because it’s the most simple and basic, almost like a uniform. The grenadine tie is really the key item of the wardrobe. It’s really a wonderful item, being both sober and stylish.

    On another point, I think Brosnan is getting a pretty unfair image here. Overt opulence ? It’s a bit too much for me, sorry Matt !
    The ‘opulence’ idea came mainly from the ties that were often, I agree, a bit loud, luxurious and flashy, but that is only the case for two (alright, three if we count the Bilbao tie, which is an exception in the movie) movies out of four.

    About the Brioni suits. Well I never saw Brosnan in a flashy or anyway opulent suiting, like a Dupioni silk -which Connery and Moore wore-, a silk blend, a mohair blend, or some kind of loud stripe or bold check. Instead his suitings were very subtle, mostly navy or grey semi-solids. The charcoal with a blue windowpane he wore twice is really a subtle pattern. The last two movies featured some cloths that were pretty timeless : the mid grey pick-and-pick, the charcoal serge, the navy semi-solid, the grey pinstripe, the charcoal worsted flannel…
    The cut was quite simple -some could call it boring, it’s a point of view- : 3 button, double vents, medium width lapels.
    Some details -ticket pockets, double vents, slanted pockets- and some suitings -tweed, Prince of Wales check, the blazer in navy serge- gave some ‘Britishness’ to the outfit.
    The fit was of its time, certainly, but a loose fit isn’t really related with overt opulence either. And the (heavily ? I guess) padded shoulders complemented Brosnan’s frame nicely. It was not as oversized as the suit shoulders in LTK.

    Frankly, a Brioni suit is of course synonymous with money, but Brosnan’s suits I always thought them as quite understated. Like Connery -and his suits were also cut rather loosely around the waist, not as much as Brosnan, yes, but it was not a close cut like the Castle suits Moore wore-, and unlike Tom Ford, apart from the good fit, it’s not a suit which draws your attention from a certain distance. While the Tom Ford suits, for example, with their dramatic silhouette and lxurious cloths, do.

    Finally, about the overcoats, it is indeed Brosnan’s Bond signature. But only the camel double-breasted overcoat in TND strikes me as something obviously opulent. An overcoat with cashmere will always look a bit luxurious. Of course a 100% cashmere coat will look even more expensive , but it’s a look that is inherent to any overcoat which has a bit of cashmere in it. I have a navy single breasted overcoat very similar to the one in DAD, and even if it has only 10 or 20% of cashmere, it still has a rather rich look. But it looks nice and it’s warm !

    Anyway, I just wanted to stand for Brosnan’s Bond tailored look, which I appreciate a lot, and which seems not to be very appreciated by some people on this blog. It may not look typically, or stereotypically British, but I still think it is wearable as Bond. Feel free to respond !

    NB : I am not paid by Brioni.

    • I don’t dislike Brosnan’s clothes by any means, but the full, built-up silhouette of Brosnan’s suits gives him a rich and powerful look. However, the good taste of the outfits makes him look rich rather than fashionable, as Dalton looks in Licence to Kill. I would expect most of Brosnan’s overcoats to have some content of cashmere, since they all have a rather soft look. It’s the subtleties of Brosnan’s clothes that give them a different look than Connery’s.

  21. I would have to say that Dalton’s wardrobe in License to Kill is by far the worst wardrobe of any film. Although I do think that Roger Moore’s single breasted notch lapel suits in The Spy who loved me and Moonraker were terrible, I did really like his double-breasted tuxes. Through watching the movies, I noticed that Moore has been the only Bond to wear a double-breasted suit or tuxedo? Why is that? Dalton’s tux in License to kill is the worst outfit I have ever seen on James bond. Also I noticed that Bond does not wear a tie throughout the entire film of License to Kill. Why is that?

    • Timothy Dalton wears a double-breasted dinner suit in The Living Daylights as well.

      Bond doesn’t wear ties in Licence to Kill because he was following the tie-less Miami Vice trend. He was almost put in pastel suits too.

  22. I think that overall, Roger Moore’s suit-shirt-tie outfits were the most flamboyant and the most variant out of all the Bonds. All of the actors wore suits that had clearly visible patterns. As you would probably know, Moore had the shirts and ties that had the most noticeable patterns, like you could tell really easily that they are not solid or mostly one color. For Connery, Dalton, Craig, and Brosnan, their shirts were mostly solid, but some with small patterns. Connery’s ties were pretty much all solids, and Dalton’s too(because he didn’t wear that many). Brosnan’s ties mostly had small patterns that you couldn’t really notice from a certain distance away. Most of Craig’s ties are like that too, but I think in Spectre he mostly wore solid ties. Why is it that Moore’s outfits with suits were the most flamboyant? Was it because of the trends? I tend to dislike suits, shirts, and ties with really loud, big patterns because I don’t think it looks good.

    • Roger Moore wore mostly solid shirts, and his striped shirts were always classic, restrained and never flamboyant in their patterns. He also wore a lot of solid ties, and his striped and patterned ties could hardly be considered flamboyant either. Are you confusing the large collars and excessively wide ties in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker for the patterns? The most flamboyant shirt and tie Moore wore were probably with his tan hopsack sports coat in Live and Let Die. And there the shirt has a rather subtle pattern, it’s just an unusual one.

  23. Are all of Bond’s suits bespoke except for Craig’s Tom Ford suits? The Tom Fords are the only one in which you have stated specific models of the suits. I would personally like to go bespoke rather than made-to-measure. I especially think that the Brioni suits are bespoke, because the Nomentano model which looks most similar to the ones worn in the movies, has lapels which are smaller, and the top button of the 3 button suits are partially rolled. Were the Brionis bespoke, or were they a certain model of Brioni? Would you rather go bespoke or made- to measure. Also, does Tom Ford do bespoke suits?

    • The Brioni suits are made-to-measure, and all of Dalton’s suits are ready-to-wear. He has worn Augusto and Palatino models. They have been customised more than the average made-to-measure suit. But they are more made-to-measure than bespoke, since Brioni does not do bespoke suits as far as I know. Tom Ford does not do bespoke either.

    • Does Daniel Craig wear the Augusto and Palatino models that Brosnan wears? I believe that he wears the Nomentano model, because the lapels roll a bit further, covering up the top button more than they do on Brosnan’s suits. I own a Nomentano 3 button, and when I button only the second button, the lapel covers half of the top button, but it does not give a 2 button silhouette like the Tom Ford 3 button suits do. Which model of Brioni do you like the best for 3 button suits? Are the Brioni suits that Daniel Craig wears in Casino Royale in the Nomentano model?

  24. Was it trends in the 1970s that made Roger Moore wear huge ass low gorged notch lapel suits? Because in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker, most of Moore’s suits were like that? I think that really wide peak lapels are o.k, but I would still prefer for them to be normal size, about 3 inches, but wide low gorge notch lapels to me just look like shit, especially on Roger Moore as James Bond. However, when watching the hindi movie Om Shanti Om, starring Shah Rukh Khan, in which the earlier part of the movie was set around 1976-1979, I saw Shah Rukh Khan wearing a suit similar to what Moore wore in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker.

    Here is a picture of the suit:
    http://i.ndtvimg.com/mt/movies/2013-03/stillomshanti.jpg

    Timothy Dalton does this again in License to Kill, but not in The Living Daylights? Why does he only wear suits like that in one of his movies and not the other?

    • Roger Moore never wore anything with a low gorge. The wide lapels, however, were indeed a result of 1970s trends. 3 inches is a bit narrow for peaked lapels. 3 1/2 to 4 inches is normal for peaked lapels.

      Timothy Dalton’s clothes are different in his two films because the costume designers are different.

  25. Out of the Tom Ford models that Daniel Craig has worn, which one do you like the best? I like the Regency the best because it has the best size of lapels, and it has the 3-roll-2 button configuration?

  26. Why has bond never worn brown shoes with his suits except for linen and more casually worn suits? Bond wears navy suits a lot, but always with black shoes. I personally think that navy suits look better with brown shoes and belts if necessary. Even medium and light gray and lighter blue suits look really good with brown shoes. I understand that charcoal and black suits should be worn with black shoes. But why does he rarely wear brown shoes with suits, even the ones that they look really good on.

    • Bond is British, so he follows the British convention of wearing black shoes with business suits. That means suits in any shade of blue or grey, as well as dark brown worsted. I find that people today have become afraid of black shoes, but they have a look of power and elegance that brown cannot match.

  27. Are the fits of Bond’s suits affected by the fact that he is wearing a gun holder with a gun under his suit jacket and on top of his shirt? For some reason, the suits still look like they are normal along the chest. Even on the tightly fitted O’conner Tom Fords in Skyfall and Spectre, there is no bulge on the jacket’s hips. The suits mostly look natural even though he is wearing the gun holder and the gun. Does he also put the guns on the back of his suit pants sometimes because I saw that in Quantum of Solace in the elevator scene, he puts his hands towards the back of his suit after stealing a gun from one of the agents he knocked out?

  28. When I go to a regular men’s suit store like Macy’s, JcPennys, Van Heusen, Banana Republic, Calvin Klein, the suits always seem to have a unflattering appeal on me. I am 5 ft 5.5 in, so I always look for a 40s in the suits, which is the best size for me. However, when I put them on, I always feel like a sausage in those suits because the armholes and shoulders are so tight. I also tried 42s, but that was too big on me. My friends who are taller than me always look good in those suits. I do have a much bigger chest and arms, and I am more muscular even than most of my friends who are taller than me. I have saved up a lot of money over the years, which is enough to get me a mtm suit. I recently went to a Neiman Marcus and tried on a ton of suits, for example, Zegna, Armani, Kiton, Canali, Brioni, and Tom Ford. One of the retailers said that I should probably buy Tom Ford or Brioni. Are Tom Ford and Brioni good for men with more muscular builds? The choice is really tough to make because they are both amazing quality suits, and I think I looked great in both those suits. However, I am slightly in favor of the Tom Ford Regency because it now has the stronger cut, and I like suits with stronger cuts. If the Brioni had the same strong Roman silhouette it had in the Bond films, I probably would have chosen that. Which one do you prefer: the current Tom Ford Regency(3-roll-2) or a current Brioni Nomentano(3 button)? Which one do you think I should buy?

  29. I saw a hindi movie called Ghajini recently, starring Aamir Khan in the lead role. In the movie, he wears a number of suits as the CEO of a multibillion dollar company. However, I feel that the outfits he wore to work were a bit bold. For example, he wore a red and a dark blue shirt with business suits. I have heard that shirts of those colors are inappropriate for buisness, but however it looked cool on Aamir Khan. I believe that the 4 main colors of shirts to wear in business are white, pale/light blue, light purple/lavender, and light pink. Do you think that burgundy and navy-ish shirts are o.k. to wear with a business suit?

    Also, quoted from the lead actress, Asin during the movie, she says,”Guys like you always wear you Van Heusens” as if she noticed that Khan was wearing a really expensive suit like Tom Ford or Brioni or any of the suits that Bond wears. Do you think Van Heusen suits are in anyway good quality? I don’t believe so, and I don’t think it gets you anywhere close to having bragging rights as if he was wearing a Tom Ford or Brioni. Do you think Van Heusen and Calvin Klein are good quality suits? Also, I have pics of Aamir Khan in the light gray suit with the burgundy shirt and the navy shirt. Do you think that this suit is similar to any suit that James Bond wears, and if so, could you name it?

    Gray suit with burgundy shirt:
    http://moviecomix.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Ghajini-2008-Hindi-BRRip-1080p-2.7-GB-moviecomix.com7_.jpg

    navy shirt:
    http://funalso.com/images2/ghajini15.jpg

    • Van Heusen and Calvin Klein clothes are poor quality, and Khan is very poorly dressed. His shirts look very cheap, so the Van Heusen comment must have been meant as an insult. Traditional business shirts are white, light blue and cream/ecru. Pink and lilac are a little more adventurous, but still classics. Dark shirts are casual and should not be worn with a suit, except for a casual suit. James Bond has never dressed so poorly. He wears a casual dark blue shirt with his tan linen suit in Die Another Day, but it’s meant to be a casual outfit. Dark shirts and ties don’t work.

    • I have confirmed that the suits in the movie, were in fact Van Heusens. I have to give Van Heusen a little credit though because they are on of the very few off-the rack suits that actually complement my broad shoulders, as do they Aamir Khan. Aamir Khan and I have the same height (5 ft 5.5 in) and roughly the same build except he is more of a bodybuilder than me. Both of our shoulders are broad, so the Van Heusens for some reason don’t look too bad. However, the Van Heusen still offers a very weak look, and India did have some Brioni stores open, which were the only suit brand that Bond wears that were sold in India at the time(2008). They could have easily gone with the Brionis that Bond wears in the series, with the same strong roman cut and the 3 button front, and Khan would have looked much more commanding and better than he did in Van Heusen. I look very commanding and strong in the Brioni Nomentano 3-button that had the strong Roman cut. Also, I don’t believe that the Van Heusen comment was meant as an insult, because at the time people in India would “die” for Khan’s looks in Ghajini. However, I don’t understand why most off-the rack suits do not look good on men with broad shoulders. Why do most suit brands make suits that are more directed towards the skinny bodies? Also, are Tom Ford and Brioni good suits for men who have broad shoulders like me? Cuz no good quality, off the rack suit that I can find complements my body type at all.

  30. Why has Bond not worn suits and shirts from the same brand 87% of the time? For example, Connery always wore Turnbull and Asser shirts with his Anthony Sinclair suits. Moore almost always wore Frank Foster shirts with his suits from Cyril Castil, Angelo Roma, and Douglas Hayward. Lazenby wore Frank Foster as well with his Dimi Major suits. Dalton idk about his suit or shirt brands. Brosnan wore Sulka and Turnbull and Asser shirts with Brioni suits in his 1st 3 movies. Then he became the first actor to wear suits and shirts by the same brand by finally wearing Brioni shirts with Brioni suits in Die Another Day. Daniel Craig has continued this, wearing Brioni shirts with his Brioni suits in Casino Royale(except for the tux) and Tom Ford shirts with Tom Ford suits in the following movies. I personally prefer to wear suits and shirts of the same brand because they have the same cut and style as each other, and it makes it easier to get a whole outfit made to measure by the same brand. I think wearing Italian suits with british shirts kind of clashes cuts because the British and Italian cuts are vastly different from each other. Would you wear suits and shirts of the same brand? What are the pros and cons of wearing suits and shirts of the same brand?

    • There’s no clash in wearing Italian suits with English shirts, and there are no pros or cons to wears shirts and suits from the same or different brands. There should be a general correlation between the collar point length and width of the lapels, and the stiffness or softness of the collar should match the stiffness or softness of the suit. I may write an article on this point. But the “cuts” of the shirt and the suit don’t relate to each other. James Bond wore suits and shirts from different makers because tailors make suits and shirt makers make shirts. The same people don’t make both. Turnbull & Asser sells suits, but they neither specialise in or make their own suits. Brosnan started wearing Brioni shirts to save money by getting shirts through the endorsement deal, since Turnbull & Asser charges the films for their clothes. But there’s no reason why Brioni suits and Turnbull & Asser shirts can’t go together. Saving money is why the James Bond films have used Tom Ford for so much in the last three films.

  31. I rencently started getting into the bond movies and its really cool to see the different styles of each bond. For now my favourite is Connery but maybe that will change as i continue to watch. Great article its really cool to read about the bond style and the details of all the clothing.

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