Sean Connery’s second glen check suit in From Russia With Love is almost identical to the glen check suit in Dr. No. The cloth is woven in a plain weave, making it better suited for warmer weather than the more traditional twill-weave Glen Urquhart check suit Connery wears earlier in From Russia With Love. The scale of the pattern on this suit isn’t as fine as the similar check in Dr. No, and the colour is black and grey instead of black and cream.
All the details on this suit are the same as on the glen check suit in Dr. No except for pocket flaps being present on this suit. The button-two suit jacket has natural shoulders with roped sleeve heads, a draped chest and a nipped waist. It has double vents and four-button cuffs. The suit trousers have double forward pleats, button-tab side-adjusters and turn ups.
Connery’s pale blue shirt is from Turnbull & Asser and has a spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. He wears a navy grenadine tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot. He wears a white linen folded pocket handkerchief, black socks and black derby shoes. His hat is a brown felt trilby.
“He wears a navy grenadine tie”. So, no surprise there then. He hardly seems to have worn much else. Take a look at the previous posts for the lounge suits from this movie, for example. All but one was accompanied by this same “navy grenadine” tie and the other is plain black. The extremely narrow color palate and style of Connery’s ties have been commented upon before (but then so have so many other criticisms of the character’s wardrobe) but it really is unimaginative. As a fan who always admired the character for his clothing I think this is one reason which made me more inclined towards Moore’s Bond as a youth. Fair enough though, horses for courses. What I do find somewhat strange though is this almost universal consensus that this style of neckwear is the benchmark for the Bond character and that deviations from this exercise in boredom (some of Brosnan’s geometric ties, which I personally could take or leave) are frowned upon.
I agree 100%. Excluding Dalton of course, Connery’s style is my least favorite of all the Bonds. That’s not to say that there is anything objectively wrong with it, I just prefer something more rakish.
Ture David, it may look boring and Moore’s ties in the series are nice but it is in character. Remember Fleming’s Bond wears only black knitted ties. The navy grenadine is a good interpretation and looks great on film (I am a fan of knitted ties and love their comeback in stores but admit the excellent quality of grenadine ties!). The limited color palette also reflects Bond’s military background and suits Sir Sean! Don’t get me wrong though, I love the plain ties in TMWTGG and I am one of the few on the site to love the Brosnan ties especially in TND!
Well, my personal tastes in wearing suits follow Connery-Bond’s pretty closely (shades of grey and blue suits, white or pale blue shirts, dark ties) except that I find nothing wrong in wearing a striped or patterned tie. But as others point out, Connery’s wardrobe is probably the closest interpretation of the novels we’ve gotten so far on film. Bond was well dressed, but didn’t do it to stand out.
Couldn’t agree with you more Jovan. 007 just rocks an outstanding, classic suit and gets on with his mission. His cover is business rep, not jazz man or beatnik, after all. Wish he wore the hat more though. Reminds me of a style known in Australia as “The Bookie”, as bookmakers here wore them years after hats went out of fashion.
I see what you mean David. One can find his style a bit boring, not surprising at all, repetitive. But to me, Bond is a character that is well-dressed, or perfectly dressed, without standing out. It’s just when we see him closely that we see the subtle elegance of his clothes. And his very restricted color palate as well as his “limited” choice of clothing concerning his suits, shirts and ties associations have the advantage -well, I see it as an advantage personally- of creating some continuity through Connery’s Bond movies. His personal style is established, and he sticks to it during his 6 movies (DAF being some exception perhaps), contrary to other Bond actors who have made lots of pictures (Moore, Brosnan, Craig…). I don’t criticize them or their choice of clothing, but I just remark that it’s difficult to define, well, Moore or Brosnan typical lounge suit + shirt + tie, since they have worn lots of different models and combinations. It’s nice for us spectators to show some variety, but I think it’s even more difficult to try to create a typical look -that would be called Bondian or not decades after- and to stick to it. That said, Connery’s style is my favorite, but I like some elements of Moore’s or Brosnan’s style too.
I completely agree with Jovan and Le Chiffre. As David alludes, this is largely a matter of personal style. I am sympathetic to the “suits the character” argument (I have made it myself elsewhere on this blog) but only to an extent. The early 1960s time frame also dictates much of Connery’s style. And this look reflects my own tastes (though I do have some subtle patterns and striped ties, including a Royal Navy Regimental one right out of Live and Let Die’s Navy in New York). I do think that the subtle ties just look better as they do not distract from Connery’s face (much like Grant’s tie in North by Northwest did not take away from “a nice face”). And the grenadine has the texture to make more interesting than just a solid tie. In my personal experience, I get a lot of compliments on my suits I think in large part because I stick to subtle ties as opposed to typically Los Angeles-style loud ones. Anyway, all a matter of taste. I do think Connery’s style is more unified and consistent (Diamonds are Forever notwithstanding) than the other long-serving actors.
I accept completely the logic of the consistency argument gentlemen and I also find a grenadine tie a very attractive look. While Brosnan and Moore did alter their look somewhat, it wasn’t excessive and I think, from what I can see on the blog, Craig appears to be the 007 whose look has fluctuated the most wildly.
To return to the grenadine tie, it was the very limited color palate rather than the overall style template that I found so unimaginative and I would blame the producers/stylist more than the actor on this (Connery would just wear what was put on front of him). What appears to be the same tie with about seven different suits in just one movie. Why not a grenadine in navy with one or two suits and, for example, another grenadine in grey, paler blue or burgundy with other suits? This would maintain the style template but, at least, introduce a little flair to the proceedings
I completely agree with you, they could (should ?) have used other colours. Perhaps it’s because I am used to see Connery in his navy grenadine tie that I doubt any combination could beat that (grey and blue, for example, match perfectly). But a grenadine tie in an other color is a nice idea. He wore other colored grenadine ties, but only with sport coats, DAF being an exeption. And I think that, for example, a dark green grenadine tie with a grey suit and an ecru/light blue shirt could be beautiful too.
Isn’t a black and white plaid suit with light blue and dark navy a non-matching combination? I read Fleming’s Bond wearing navy and black all the time and just cringe.
Considering how black and white plaid suits are often made with a blue overcheck, a light blue shirt is a great match for it. Because the overall effect of the suit is grey, a navy tie works. A solid black tie can often look too severe. As far as Fleming’s Bond, lighter navy suit can work with a black tie if there is enough contrast so they don’t look mismatched.
Thanks for the sensible reply, Matt. Your knowledge is appreciated as always.
I remember back in the VHS tape days, I always thought he was wearing the same grey suit all throughout this movie. Thank God for blu-ray and this website.
I agree. Watching the movies on DVD (or on BD, but the Ultimate Edition DVD was already excelent) revealed new details for me.
PS: in From Russia with Love Connery wears about eight suits, isn’t it? I was watching it a few weeks ago, counting how many suits Bond wears in the entire film, but I’m not exactly sure if he wears the same suit in different occasions.
Regards
I used to have the same problem, glad it wasn’t just me! A high-definition copy certainly helps, but the detailed analysis found here has taught me quite a bit about my idol’s sartorial inclinations.
Where do you get your info on the suits and shirts Matt? For instance how do you know for sure that his shirt is Turnbull & Asser? I’m not saying that I don’t think it is at all, just wondering.
Thanks.
Turnbull & Asser told me they made made shirts for all of Connery’s Bond films, and the only conflicting information is that Frank Foster says he made some of the shirts for Dr. No. There is a photo of Connery being fitted at Turnbull & Asser for From Russia With Love. The style of this shirt is consistent with the other shirts in the film. That’s where my info comes from.
Nice trilby, but since it looks almost green in the first picture, perhaps Connery could have kept it to wear it with a brown suit like the one at the beginning of Goldfinger. I prefer the grey one of Dr No, more “effetcive” with grey suits. Anyway, I hardly see the difference between his other glen plaid suit of FRWL. I guess the scale of the pattern is the same, but I can’t see the difference between plain and twill weave at the screen.
Matt, have you any idea why Connery wore almost only light blue shirts with his lounge suits ?? He wore even less white shirts than ecru/cream ones. Is it just because the blue flatters his complexion better than the white ?
This suit is one of my all time favourites both in terms of pattern and the Anthony Sinclair cut. You could wear it today and it would look completely modern apart from the trousers. Matt, what is your view on the high rise pleated trousers? I think you have to be incredibly slim hipped to look good in them.
On comments that the overall look with the single colour tie is boring, I would rather say that it is correctly conservative and in line with a secret agent travelling overseas. My experience in travelling frequently is that your wardrobe must be pretty simple as it is difficult to match more flamboyant looks when you are on the road and avoid looking like a harlequin.
I think the forward-pleat trousers that sit on the waist are superior trousers. They work well on a number of types of figures. Sean Connery does not have slim hips by any means and they look great on him. But they also look great on slimmer men like Cary Grant. Suit trousers should always sit on the waist for an unbroken line from jacket to trousers. No shirt or tie should ever show below the jacket button, and a long trouser rise prevents that. Pleats are a preference, but they are especially helpful for someone like Connery who has wider hips. Connery’s pleats are more for function than style. Darts are a good choice for those opposed to pleats who need them, but they aren’t as functional. Forward pleats are better for a more slimming look. Reverse pleats (which are the kind of pleats found on about 95% of pleated trousers) have a widening effect and don’t look good on men with wide hips. They were popular with the full-cut suits of the 1950s, 1980s and 1990s because they balanced out the wide jacket.
Agree, Matt . I meant slim in the seat rather than the hips. If you have a big backside, I feel the high rise and pleats accentuate it.
When the trousers are part of a suit, whether or not they flatter the backside is irrelevant since that part is completely hidden. A long rise can make a large backside look bigger, though pleats have nothing to do with that since they are in the front. Pleats will actually make the trousers look more flattering by helping them drape better. A short rise on a larger person will look far worse.
Matt, what is your view on jacket linings? I often think a personalised colour for the jacket lining can be attractive and also invariably denotes a bespoke suit. 007 does not appear to ever go for this. I think it is far classier than leaving the sleeve buttons undone to show that your suit is bespoke.
Roger Moore had some fancy suit linings, most notably in The Man With the Golden Gun. I’m in favour of fancy linings. There are many ways to show your suit is bespoke other than leaving sleeve buttons open. Leaving a sleeve button open is one of the worst ways to do it.
I think this suit is the best of all Connery wore. Yes. Even better than the “Goldfinger” suit. Obviously its similar to the Goldfinger suit but the cut is stunning. It gives Connery a more slender appearance. The shoulders are beautifully constructed giving it the perfect silhouette. I think the lapels have a sharper look too. Contrary to some comments, the colour combinations of shirt and tie are wonderful and what makes Connery the most sartorial of them all. A plain poplin shirt in white, ecru, pale blue and pale pink make getting dressed a lot of fun. I would love to see bond wear a pale pink poplin with navy suit and navy Grenadine tie and black lace-ups. Definitely due its debut.
George Lazenby wore a pink shirt (maybe end-on-end) and navy knit tie with his navy blazer: https://www.bondsuits.com/?p=28. It’s a great combination.
Thanks for that. I haven’t seen OHMSS in a while. Thanks for the link. I’m pleased it’s been seen before n Bond. I do think Lazenby’s Bond was very much part of the “swinging 60s” and therefore some outfits were quite daring.
On the subject of the grenadine tie relating to comments made above. I agree that they could have added a few more different coloured ties into connery’s wardrobe. Turnbull and Asser do a beautiful burgundy tie which would look beautiful with a white, ecru and/or pale blue poplin. Also they do an olive coloured grenadine which is very stunning too
Ryan, fully agree. I would put this suit on a par with the Junkanoo suit he wears in Thunderball, already featured by Matt. That suit had no vents.
I like this suit for its side vents. The suit he light grey suit he wears earlier only has single vent which I don’t like on lounge suits rather only on his hacking jacket from goldfinger. This suit has flapped hip pockets which I prefer as well which you don’t see in doctor no. Also I don’t think it has a ticket pocket which again is my preference and these little distinctions are what makes this one my no 1
Is there some pick-stitching on the lapels ?
There is pick stitching on the lapels. Almost all English bespoke suits have it, but it’s easily seen here because the cloth is lightweight.
Really ? Interesting. I thought it was just a feature used on more casual suits and sport jackets, especially on summer jackets and suits, to distinguish them and add some “casualness”, like swelled edges or patch pockets would do. Thanks for the information, Matt.
“The button-two suit jacket has natural shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a draped chest and a nipped waist.”
Matt, my impression of a ‘natural shoulder’ was one without roped sleeve heads. Is that incorrect and could you explain that further for me? Thanks.
A natural shoulder has little or no padding and follows the natural shoulder line. Roped sleeveheads are irrelevant since they can go on any type of shoulder.
Matt is the suit closer to a dark grey or more medium grey colour toned ?
It’s overall darker than medium grey.
My favorite look in the entire series.
Any idea where to find a similar cloth ? Most cloth merchants often offer such pattern either with a black and white thread, making it a (too) light grey , or on the contrary offer dark grey checks similar to charcoal from a distance, but true mid grey glen checks are pretty hard to find.
This is the closest I can find, though it’s a bit lighter: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/tropicalair/product/4700dug13876/colour/tropicalair_high_twist_grey_charcoal_prince_of_wales/page/249/
Thanks, great find ! I wonder what justify the price, though. Is it because it’s high twist wool ?
I don’t know what justifies the price. Last year their prices were considerably lower.
Would you say the black and grey Glen Check suit here or the black and cream Glen Check suit is better for warm weather? Is one more versatile than the other?
This one is more breathable suit thanks to the plain weave, so this is better for warm weather. The other suit is a more typical three-season suit, so the one that is better depends on your weather.
Thank you.
Matt, what kind of fabric would be closest to this at today’s cloth merchants ?
I don’t know where to find this one exactly. It’s a plain-weave worsted. William Halstead’s SSM6500-23580-A1 from their Explorer range is very close. Dugdale has this in black and white (8945), which is the colours of the Dr. No glen check.
There’s also a few selections at Fox Brothers, specifically the high twist tropical collection, that much resemble this cloth and the Goldfinger’s cloth.
I found a cloth on their website that’s a match for the Dr. No check, but nothing for Connery’s next two films.
https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-air/products/plain-weave-grey-classic-prince-of-wales-check
Matt, would you say that fox Brothers one you linked is closer to the Dr No check, or this Standeven one please: https://www.standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/27024-black-white-glen-check/
The Standeven is closer to the Dr. No check. And this one is close to the From Russia with Love suit https://www.standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/27025-medium-grey-glen-check/
Awesome, thank you Matt, very tempting to get one of each of the Standeven ones (both the Dr No and FRWL). Many thanks again :))