A Visit to Douglas Hayward’s Mayfair Shop

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Douglas Hayward Shop

Since 1968, Douglas Hayward has been at 95 Mount Street in Mayfair. The shop is at ground level and Hayward lived upstairs. Though Hayward himself passed away in 2008, cutters Ritchie Charlton and Campbell Carey continue the shop today. Though they originally came from Kilgour, they now cut their suits in Douglas Hayward’s style. Carey described the Hayward cut as “typically a West End London-looking jacket, a soft but natural-looking shoulder line, a square gorge—a signature look of Hayward.” The gorge is the seam where the collar meets the lapel, and Hayward’s jackets keep that line straight. Carey described the construction as “nothing too robust.” They use a softer canvas than Savile Row so the suit is less of a coat of armour. Hayward’s suits have more of a relaxed look overall.

The shop has its ready-to-wear clothes in front and the bespoke measuring and fitting is done in the back, pictured below. The shop has a modern feel but with many traditional touches. They also swapped Hayward’s upstairs flat for more basement workspace.

Douglas Hayward is most well known to James Bond fans as Roger Moore’s tailor in the 1980’s Bond films, and Moore is still a customer of the firm today. Though he doesn’t spend much time in England anymore, he stopped by Hayward around Christmas time to bespeak an overcoat. Moore’s measurements were written as 43 1/2″ chest, 36″ waist and 41 1/2″ seat. Those aren’t his measurements today, but likely his measurements during his Bond tenure. Michael Caine, one of Douglas Hayward’s most well-known customers as well as a close friend of the man, still comes in as well.

Roger Moore’s pattern for an overcoat. All patterns are kept folded up in envelopes.

Hayward has a ready-to-wear line that started two years ago featuring button 1, 2 and 3 jackets and blazers as well as double breasted models, all in classic Hayward style with a low button stance. The double-breasted suits have 4 buttons with 1 to button. The ready-to-wear shoulder has more structure than the bespoke suits and was described to me as “a cross between the Italian and Savile Row style.” They have Hayward’s classic “square gorge” and the front dart doesn’t continue through the body for an easy fit. Their line of shirts includes ones with cocktail cuffs, though their cocktail cuffs have sharp corners as opposed to the classic rounded corner. They have a good selection of classic ties, including grenadines.

A blazer from Hayward’s ready-to-wear collection

I was also told that Douglas Hayward was supposed to tailor suits for Sean Connery for the Bond films, but “they had a bit of a fallout.”

You can visit Hayward’s website at DouglasHayward.co.uk

14 COMMENTS

  1. Not sure what he means when he refers to a “West End London looking jacket” but overall I love Hayward’s look.

    The new people seem to be producing something of the original man’s overall look but with a twist of their own. The double breasted suit pictured looks a little like the one Moore wears in Germany in “Octopussy” although here the shoulder (as they point out) is a bit more structured than the (in my opinion preferable) natural one in the original Hayward’s jackets.

    Interesting that last remark about Connery and Hayward’s “fallout”. Frank Foster mentioned to me that he wasn’t too taken with Connery’s “dour” manner but found Moore and Lazenby very nice to deal with.

    • I think Douglas Hayward’s style of making a suit is incredible. The ready to wear section is great especially the double-breasted jacket in the picture. I’m not typically a fan of DB-jackets, i stick to the single breasted 2-buttons, and 3-roll-2 button suits and jackets, but that one in the picture is almost making me want to convert haha. My question is why was Moore the only person to wear DB-jackets during his tenure as Bond? Was it is personal style preference? Do you think future bond films will bring back the DB-jacket or was it just the fashion of that era to wear DB-jackets?

      • Hayward’s double-breasted style was the dominant style in the 1980s. But unlike the examples you will have seen back then, Hayward’s does not look dated because it is cut closer and doesn’t have huge shoulders.
        Lazenby and Brosnan also wore double-breasted blazers, and Dalton wore a double-breasted dinner jacket. Moore is a big fan of double-breasted jackets, though they haven’t been very popular since the early 90s. These days they tend to look flashy to the average person, which is why we won’t see Bond wearing the style. Daniel Craig has worn a double-breasted dinner jacket outside of Bond. Current fashions tend to be minimal, with less cloth everywhere that saves money. Double-breasted suits need more cloth, and that adds an additional cost that most people won’t be willing to pay right now. When the shrunken suit trend is over and the economy is better we may see more double-breasted suits again.

      • Dalton isn’t wearing a double-breasted dinner jacket is he?

        But I agree, the DB jackets did look really good on all three (Lazenby, Sir Roger, Brosnan)! But would a DB look just as good on Craig, considering his height?

  2. Cillian Murphy wore an excellent double-breasted suit in the film “Inception,” a few years ago. Apart from that it’s not something many people wear these days, which I agree is a bit of a shame. I’ve always preferred jackets with two to button rather than one, such as those worn by Roger Moore, but the example shown here from Hayward’s is also very nice. I’m glad that they are still making the same quality products that make Roger Moore and Michael Caine look so stylish. They certainly have a very impressive client list, I’d heard that Clint Eastwood was also a patron.

    Matt I think you’re absolutely right, it seems as if double-breasted jackets are at their most popular during periods of general affluence, such as the 1950’s and 1980’s.

  3. I agree that Hayward’s double breasted suits have dated much less than the general run of double breasted suits which were prominent during the period when this style was popular (from about 1982-1993). That general look was one that I disliked as much as I dislike the current short jacket, low rise, tight trouser look. I tend to agree with Kyle that the 6 button with 2 to button style like Moore’s Castle suits which he wore in “The Saint” (final series), “The Persuaders” and his first couple of Bond movies, are a more aesthetically pleasing look overall than the 1980’s/1990’s 4 button with 1 to button style. But, then you look at something like Moore’s double breasted suit from “Octopussy” (and another charcoal chalkstripe made by Hayward which he wore in an awful 1990 movie called “Bullesye”) and you view the style more positively, because, once again, you can see how a genuine tailor brings only subtle elements of the current style to what he produces. That’s what makes people like Hayward and Castle artists in their field and Mr Moore (IMO) the 007 with the best sense of sartorial aesthetics.

  4. Has anyone made a suit, jacket, trousers with Douglas Hayward lately. Their head cutter’s name is William J Smith. Any information on him and his past expertise will be helpful. Thanks.

    • I wasn’t aware that Campbell Carey and Ritchie Charlton had left. I haven’t seen Smith’s work. The only example of the tailoring I can find on their website has shoulders that are straight and padded, unlike Douglas Hayward’s natural shoulders.

  5. I greatly regret having to inform you that Douglas Hayward has now gone out of business. The shop closed at the end of last year and the premises has now been emptied.

    R.I.P. to the best tailor in Britain…

  6. What an iconic period, I’ve always loved the double breasted suites and that classic look. A big fan of Sir Roger Moore since I was mesmerised by the Saint. I’ve tried to keep the tradition alive and love to ware waist coats and double breast suits. Let’s hope others continue to follow this great stile.

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