I visited Turnbull & Asser in New York City to learn all about their collars from Bespoke Associate Daniel Stroupe. In the From Tailors with Love video with Matt Spaiser above, Mr Stroupe discusses Turnbull & Asser’s standard collars as well as the collars that Sean Connery, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig wear in their James Bond films. He also shows us inspiration for the limitless designs possible for bespoke collars and the different methods they can use to construct bespoke collars. Watch above to learn more.
The primary Turnbull & Asser collars are the Classic Turnbull & Asser collar, the Prince of Wales collar and the Regent collar. The Classic T&A collar is narrowest while the Regent is the widest. All three collars have the same height, despite what is said in the video.
Turnbull & Asser has two other collar available in made-to-measure and in some ready-to-wear shirts, the Cambridge button-down collar and the Kent collar, which is like a shorter Regent collar. In bespoke they have a few other standard collars, like the Number 3 point collar, the Tab collar (which they usually do like a Number 3 collar but with shorter points), the International Button-Down collar (which is more classic than the Cambridge collar) and the rounded St James’s collar. In bespoke any type of collar is possible, though they have many samples to help give the customer a place to start.
Here’s a quick guide to the various Turnbull & Asser Bond collars:
- Sean Connery’s Dr. No collar is a larger version of the Regent collar, though there is slight variation in the collars he wore throughout his Bond films. The larger Regent collar is available in the ready-to-wear Dr. No shirt and in bespoke.
- Sean Connery wears a variation on the Classic T&A collar in Never Say Never Again.
- Pierce Brosnan’s collar in Tomorrow Never Dies is a higher version of the Prince of Wales collar. This collar returns for the dress shirt in The World Is Not Enough.
- The World Is Not Enough collar on the day shirts is slightly wider than the Tomorrow Never Dies collar, and in spread it is between the Prince of Wales and Regent collars. It’s also higher than the standard Turnbull & Asser collars. The The World Is Not Enough collar was first made by former bespoke manager at T&A Robert Gillotte, but in a two-button variation. It was changed to a one-button collar for Pierce Brosnan. One of Mr Gillotte’s later collar designs—the “RG” collar—is available in bespoke at T&A but it is a different, wider cutaway collar.
- The French blue shirt that Brosnan wears open during the climax of The World Is Not Enough has a Number 3 collar, raised up like the others.
- Pierce Brosnan’s pleated dress shirt in Die Another Day has a classic T&A collar.
- Daniel Craig had a custom collar made for his dress shirt in Casino Royale with long points and a wide spread. This collar is available on the ready-to-wear Casino Royale dress shirt as well as in bespoke.
My piece of advice would be to not worry too much about perfectly replicating a specific Bond collar, as the collar you get should be what best works for you. A specific Bond collar could look different on you than it did on a certain Bond actor.
You can see some of the James Bond collar patterns in my article about my visit to the Turnbull & Asser bespoke shop in London.
Turnbull & Asser made shirts for ten James Bond films: Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Thunderball, You Only Live Twice, Diamonds Are Forever, Never Say Never Again, Tomorrow Never Dies, The World Is Not Enough, Die Another Day and Casino Royale. For Die Another Day and Casino Royale they only made the dress (Tuxedo) shirts.