Bond wears a small number of suits in Tomorrow Never Dies, only a blue, a grey, and a naval commander’s uniform. 30 years prior to this movie in 1967, Sean Connery wore the same in You Only Live Twice. For now we will be looking at the charcoal grey worsted flannel Brioni suit worn in the Hamburg scenes. The suit jacket has a button three front, and the button stance has been lowered an inch from the usual for a more relaxed look. Also contributing to the relaxed look is a less suppressed waist. But on the other hand, the shoulders are strongly padded with roping at the sleeve head. All of these features were very contemporary to the late 1990s.
Costume designer Lindy Hemming commented on the film’s wardrobe: “The new Brioni clothing that Mr. Brosnan wears in Tomorrow Never Dies establishes the James Bond character as a totally modern man of international taste, dressed in classic but contemporary proportions.”
The jacket is Anglicised with flapped slanted pockets with a ticket pocket (without a flap) and double vents, and there are four-buttons on the sleeves. The trousers have double reverse pleats (today’s standard outward-facing pleats) and are tapered down the leg, finished with turn-ups. The light blue royal oxford shirt in Sea Island quality has a high spread collar and double cuffs, and the tie is a square-pattern jacquard in navy, brown and light blue (pictured below). Both are from Turnbull & Asser. The shoes are black oxfords from Church’s.