The Spectre Trailer: Tom Ford Suits and Coats

54

A longer Spectre trailer was released yesterday and revealed official footage of many of the suits and coats that James Bond wears in the film. Spectre has the most varied selection of tailored clothing of the Bond series we’ve seen since Roger Moore was Bond. The clothes it features are designed by both the film’s costume designer Jany Temime and by Tom Ford. Though there are still problems with the fit, the styles of the clothes respect the history of Bond’s exquisite wardrobes over the years. Here is an overview of the tailored clothes in the film.

Blue Prince of Wales Suit with a Blue Windowpane

Spectre-trailer-blue-prince-of-wales-suit

This lightweight wool suit is the Tom Ford O’Connor cut, with a few updates from the suits in Skyfall. The O’Connor suit jacket, which is designed by Jany Temime, has three buttons with the narrow lapels rolled to the middle button. This is known as “button two, show one” or “three-roll-two”. It has a single vent, four cuff buttons and slightly slanted hip pockets with flaps. The jacket is cut with straight shoulders and roped sleeve heads. The trousers have a flat front, slide-buckle side-adjusters, a waistband extension with a hook closure and a straight leg with turn-ups. The jacket fits tightly, but it’s not quite as tight as the suit jackets in Skyfall. The sleeves look less constricting. Unfortunately, it’s still too short and doesn’t fully-cover Daniel Craig’s buttocks. The trousers are again too tight and a little too short.

Bond wears his blue Prince of Wales check suit with a white shirt from Tom Ford. The shirt has a point collar and double cuffs. Bond’s tie is solid medium blue and tied in a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are black Crockett & Jones Norwich five-eyelet derby shoes with Dainite studded rubber soles.

Grey Herringbone Track Stripe Suit and Three-Quarter Coat

Spectre-trailer-grey-herringbone-stripe-suit

This wool, silk and mohair suit is also made in Tom Ford’s O’Connor cut, detailed exactly the same as the blue Prince of Wales check suit. This suit is worn with two different shirts and ties. The first (below) is a white Tom Ford shirt with a point collar and double cuffs. The tie is solid medium grey and tied in a four-in-hand knot. The second shirt (above) is sky blue, made in the same style as the white shirt. With this shirt, Bond wears a solid navy tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot. Bond also wears black Crockett & Jones Norwich derby shoes with Dainite rubber soles with this suit.

Spectre-trailer-navy-coat

Over this suit, Bond wears a navy cashmere and silk herringbone three-quarter topcoat with a three buttons hidden under a fly front, a moleskin collar, flapped pockets, a rear vent and three cuff buttons. This kind of coat is often known as the “Crombie” coat, named for the brand who made this style popular. It’s like a chesterfield but shorter.

Blue Sharkskin Suit

Spectre-trailer-blue-sharkskin-suit

Not much is seen of this wool sharkskin suit, but it appears to be the same style as the other O’Connor suits that we see more of. Bond wears it with a solid navy tie and a white shirt with a point collar. It has either double cuffs or cocktail cuffs. Bond wears black Crockett & Jones Norwich derby shoes with Dainite rubber soles with this suit.

Black Herringbone Three-Piece Suit and Bridge Coat

Spectre-trailer-black-three-piece-suit

The black herringbone wool three-piece suit is different than the other suits in Spectre, made in Tom Ford’s Windsor cut. The Windsor is one of Tom Ford’s most popular designs. The jacket buttons two and has medium-wide peaked lapels and strong, straight shoulders with roped sleeve heads. The jacket is detailed with straight pockets with flaps, a ticket pocket, a single vent and five cuff buttons. The Windsor jacket is slightly longer than the O’Connor jacket. The waistcoat has six buttons with five to button and four welt pockets. The trousers are similar to the O’Connor suit’s trousers but have a slightly fuller leg and no turn-ups. With this suit Bond wears a white shirt from Tom Ford that has a pinned eyelet collar and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie is black with a subtle texture. Bond wears black Crockett & Jones Camberley double-monk boots with Dainite rubber soles with this suit.

Spectre-trailer-black-double-breasted-coat

Over the suit, Bond wears a knee-length double-breasted bridge coat made in black brushed wool. It has eight buttons on the front with four to button, an ulster collar, slash pockets, a button-on half belt in the back, a rear vent and three cuff buttons.

Ivory Dinner Jacket

Spectre-trailer-ivory-dinner-jacket

The new Spectre trailer reveals James Bond’s first ivory dinner jacket since A View to a Kill, released 30 years ago. Not much can be seen of this ivory silk and viscose blend faille dinner jacket, but it is made in the Windsor style and has medium-wide peaked lapels. The wide peaked lapels make this dinner jacket most closely resemble Sean Connery’s ivory dinner jacket in Diamonds Are Forever. Bond wears a black cummerbund, and most likely black trousers, under the dinner jacket. The white dress shirt is from Tom Ford with a spread collar, double cuffs and a pleated front. The black diamond-point bow tie that Bond previously wears in Dr. No and Quantum of Solace returns. Compared to the bow tie in Quantum of Solace, this bow tie is pointier. Bond also wears a red boutonnière in his lapel, paying homage to Goldfinger. The muted colours of the trailer make the flower look darker and duller than it likely is in reality.

The images here have been partially colour-corrected to look more true to the actual colours of the clothes. The trailer’s colours are often muted and have a very warm cast. After Spectre is released, this blog with have more thorough reviews of all the clothing in the film.

54 COMMENTS

  1. Thanks Matt!

    I also welcome very much the greater variety of clothes that seems to be displayed in SPECTRE. It’s also fine that Bond classics like GF are being paid homage to. From a sartorial point of view the film is promising – let’s hope that it doesn’t disappoint with regard to story, acting etc. I am pretty curious!

    Best,
    Renard

    • So long as someone other than the writers read the script before filming (unlike Skyfall) and the editor actually speaks up and says “hang on, this is a massive plot hole” when he’s compiling it (unlike Skyfall), it should be a blast.
      I’m excited, it looks far classier than the last film.

  2. The variety here is great. Some will undoubtedly complaint about the consist presence of blue, black and grey, but I always appreciated that aspect of Connery’s wardrobe and I think it looks elegant on Craig as well.

    The ivory dinner jacket is particularly exciting. Long overdue to make a return. I’m hoping that they removed the second button that was shown in the buy book.

    • The dinner jacket in the buy book also has grosgrain lapels (I’ve seen it in person), but I can’t tell for sure if the jacket in the trailer has that either. It doesn’t look like it has grosgrain lapels, I hope it does not. None of the suits in the buy book are exactly the same as the ones on screen. Unfortunately, it’s likely we will see a single vent on the dinner jacket again.

    • Great post – and looking forward to future SPECTRE coverage as more becomes revealed…

      One thing: For those of us a little outside the know… what’s a “buy book?”

      • This one is a document that lists the Tom Ford clothes available from the film. The version of the clothes that Tom Ford sells in stores are not exactly the same as the clothes from the film, but the cloths are the same.

  3. Very nice. The suits fit better than Skyfall, but I still preferred the more reasonable trim look of the Quantum of Solace suits.

    I like the dinner jacket. Really hope there isn’t a single vent. If there’s anything she could have taken away from the response to Skyfall’s clothing, it’s that dinner jackets should never have a centre vent.

  4. The variety is good, and like a good trailer, this one makes me look forward to the film. And the return of the ivory dinner jacket is most welcome – maybe it will have a Casino Royale dinner jacket/Skyfall navy dinner jacket effect and bring the ivory dinner jacket back into fashion.

    I too generally prefer double vents, and a center vent is not “proper” on a dinner jacket but I believe that Craigs buttocks stick out quite a bit with double vents. Anyone with a similar, gym-and-weight sculpt physique will probably understand that center vents just look better on such a body.

    • I didn’t notice any problems with the double vents on Craig in Quantum of Solace. Double vents can fit well on a large seat, as long as they are cut with an outward flare. As someone with a large butt compared to the rest of his body, I’ve found that it’s more difficult to get a single vent to sit properly if I want a good amount of waist suppression. A good tailor can fit any style vent to any body, but we’ve discovered that Daniel Craig doesn’t have that.

  5. Add me to the list of people missing a little color variety in Bond’s wardrobe. Each of the outfits here is OK, but — taken together — they are drab, especially when the setting is the train-tunnel MI6 headquarters. Oh for the days of a rakish Roger Moore, resplendent in brown, tooling around Sardinia in a submarine sports car!

    • I completely agree, too. The literary Bond is no fop and – as it seems to me – somebody who disapproves of too much formality and thinks in a rather practical way when it comes to clothes. Navy suit, white shirt, black knitted tie, black slip-on shoes – that’s his signature look. As pared-down and timeless as it could be – nothing fancy, nothing flashy and totally ignoring any fashion fads. On the other hand there’s a certain tendency towards excellent quality and even luxury items – Sea Island or even silk shirts, Sea Island underwear etc. But this tendency never exceeds a certain grade or level – that’s something the villains do. And as to the “battered” things – to me that’s an English thing – i.e. “Oldies but goodies” or “Why fix it if it stills works?”. Quality items normally last longer.
      And of course I agree to what was stated about two Bond actors which I don’t need to name: IMHO their Bond made far too many concessions to the fashion trends of their respective time and of course today it shows. And it’s not only the clothes that are dated – it’s also the way they played the character: He’s neither a clown nor a dandy clotheshorse. I think it was the late Christopher Lee who said that Craig’s acting gave something to the role which wasn’t there before. With Craig as Bond you can take the character seriously – which you could not with Moore or Brosnan. I personally appreciate this very much and I hope that it will last – the time for a comedy Bond is over.

  6. Does anyone remember the first publicity image of Craig as Bond, the one where he’s aiming the silenced pistol? Good-fitting dinner jacket and a classy, Bondian hairstyle. He looked the role there. In the actual movie he had a shorter haircut but at least the clothes fit him.

    They’ve done a poor job of presenting Craig since CR, although he was at least passable in QOS. Tiny suits, crew cuts that make his ears stick out, etc. Even the ivory dinner jacket here doesn’t work on him. The filmmakers emphasize his toughness to the detriment of the character’s other traits, so that when Craig’s Bond has to wear something nice, it doesn’t look believable on him.

    I like him as Bond, he’s a good actor, but he’s also a bit one-note in the role, and the poor tailoring severely undermines his believability as an Englishman who’s obsessive about his style.

    • Perhaps this touches on a divide on this blog. Leaving aside the near-universal and well-deserved complaints about the current shrunken look, I do not believe Bond is, or should be obsessive about his style. The literary Bond was quite dull and predictable in his style. Connery, Lazenby, Dalton, and Craig carried this forward, and none seemed concerned about his suit getting dirty. Moore and Brosnan are quite the opposite, with the latter always impecable and sometimes uncomfortable. This seems to be the divide on this blog that recurrs.

    • Totally agree, I was about to make a similar point. My reference for a Bond always starts with the literary version, and as much as we might like to discuss his threads on here, the literary Bond was far from a dandy and more likely took a very pragmatic approach to dressing – looking smart but unassuming and versatile enough to blend in to a variety of situations.
      A similar point I’ve made before is the need for film Bond to have an entire new wardrobe every couple of years. Craig alone must be getting close to double figures in the amount of overcoats he’s worn during his tenure, along with multiple sunglasses and watches. Literary Bond, who lit his fags with a ‘battered Ronson’ used an old gunmetal cigarette case and used equally ‘battered’ luggage, would squirm at the thought of conspicuous and ostentatious expenditure.

    • Standards in decorum have declined since Fleming wrote his novels. Bond may have been blue collar in the 50s but today he’d be considered a dandy simply for having standards at all.

      So basically there are two choices for dressing Bond: embrace realism and modern standards and have him complete most of his missions in t-shirts and blue jeans so he fits in with his surroundings, or have him look slightly out-of-place wearing luxurious clothes while on missions.

      This kind of thing wasn’t problematic in the 50s and 60s, when most men wore suits, allowing Bond to blend in. Today it represents a minor problem when adapting Bond for the modern world.

      • The literary Bond wasn’t a particularly well-dressed man, wearing short sleeve shirts and casual slip-ons with his suits. His clothes were quality, just the same as Fleming’s own clothes were, but he wore them in a quirky way. Sean Connery’s Bond was, on the other hand, a very well-dressed man. Except for in Licence to Kill, the film Bond always was very conscious of the way he dressed, which was not Fleming’s Bond. Fleming’s Bond likely only wore suits because that’s simply what people wore for business in the 1950s and 60s.

  7. Can I be the first one to openly put it out there ?
    I think we’re all on the same boat when it comes to agreeing that Jany Temime is a terrible designer, as opposed to Quantum Of Solace’s brilliant Louise Frogley

  8. I wouldn’t worry unduly about the less than traditional aspects of the ivory dinner jacket. It’s just good to see some of the trad stuff reappearing. Connery’s version in “Diamonds” and Moore’s in AVTAK also had some less traditional features but they still looked good. If a nice navy blazer or tan/beige suit made a reappearance it’d be another positive but he wears a couple of roll neck sweaters too in this one so it’s something! RH is spot on about Craig in the round although they’ve been trying to balance the thing in terms of storyline and portrayal away from the QOS extremes to suit all tastes I think. I would also agree with Christian that the ivory dinner jacket will suddenly become generally de rigeur post SPECTRE albeit likely wirn inappropriately.

  9. Well, well, well.
    It looks like, like Skyfall, it’s heading towards a great sartorial deception, a hit and miss plan. The tailored clothing has beautiful cloths, very classic and British, better than Skyfall perhaps, and the diversity is a great thing. But the cut is still a terrible problem. Craig never looked as boyish in a too short and tight suit jacket, with trousers that are as tight in the thighs as some jogging outfits. Plus that haircut ! Combined with his real age, it’s just another contradiction. Another problem to me are the overly narrow shoulders of the overcoats. The navy herringbone, which I appreciate the style a lot, could have looked way better. Plus that amount of waist suppression in a coat : forget Craig’s head for a second, and to me , it looks like a women’s coat worn by a women with very large hips… not very Bondian, and certainly not very masculine.
    Bringing the white dinner jacket is great, but if it is to add a single vent on a too short jacket… I am not sure, really.
    I still think Craig never looked as good as in Casino Royale. The haircut, the tailored clothing : he looked like a real man. He also never looked as short like he does in Skyfall and Spectre. And he wore a burgundy tie with a decent tailored suit, too !…

    I am a bit afraid by the trailer. Looks like it’s going to be like Skyfall : a pretentious, over-the-top plot, with too many references to several Bond films. Every time they show us that ‘Bond is just getting started’ idea thing since CR. It was appropriate in Casino Royale, but now, going back to this theme at every new Bond movie, come on ! Too many references to several Bond classics (there’s even a reference to the CR train scene with Vesper in the trailer ! come on, it has been only 9 years from now…) in the plot are just evidence people had really no idea of how to write a decent script. But I can’t blame them : it has worked so well, judging from Skyfall’s success…

    • I agree, its a shame since the general audience will love it , though it doesn’t have the qualities or the talent put in as the movies prior to Skyfall

    • I agree with you 100% about the fit of the suits. But I think Craig’s haircut is fine. In fact, I think it looks better than his hair in Casino Royale (although not as good as QoS).

      I’m also not sure your negativity is justified regarding the actual film given that all we’ve seen is a coupe of trailers. Perhaps it won’t be any good, but there’s no way to judge that now.

    • “Every time they show us that ‘Bond is just getting started’ idea thing since CR. ”

      This is probably because CR was such a success with its “Bond Begins” theme that the producers and writers simply repeated it with each successive film, even if it made no sense. The end result is that Craig is always becoming Bond and never being Bond. Each of Craig’s films ends with Craig finally having become the 007 we know, only for the next film to knock him back to square one with another problem he has to overcome until he’s “truly” 007.

      By now I’ve simply accepted that the producers are not going to let this theme go, and that every Daniel Craig Bond movie is going to be about him becoming Bond, including his final one, most likely. He’s basically the Bond actor who won’t get a chance to just be Bond from start to finish, he’ll always be the one striving for it and getting knocked down by lousy writing and misguided production.

    • @ FS : you are right that I am being perhaps a bit too negative. It’s just that I have the same feeling I had with Skyfall : great trailer, I thought, then a huge disappointment when leaving the theater… Well, I will be the first one to be happy if things prove I am wrong !

      @ RH : I couldn’t agree more with you on this point. This is really a shame, not only for Craig, because his acting abilities are wasted, but also for the audience, which is getting that same theme everytime a Bond movie is produced since CR. It’s also really irrelevant, since Casino Royale was a great movie and had used this theme -Bond is going to become Bond throughout the movie- perfectly. Thus, using it another time was just plain stupid, since the comparison would always be at the advantage of CR, in term of script. This last opinion is of course very subjective, but I don’t mind sharing it here !

      @ Christian : I am curious, when did you thought Brosnan looked uncomfortable ? To me he had the merit to always look perfectly at homeand natural in his Brioni suits, whatever hard it may be ! Perhaps in Goldeneye he was a bit nervous in his 3-piece dinner suit, but that is all I can think of… for the moment !

  10. The lapels on the Ivory dinner jacket look unusually wide to me. Hoping also that the button fastens at the correct height and not half way up his chest! Single vent is simply ridiculous!

  11. Perhaps we should wait to judge SPECTRE until at least it has been seen? And whatever one’s personal preference, Casino Royale and Skyfall have gotten the best reception from audiences and critics since From Russia With Love/ Goldfinger/ Thunderball. (Check boxofficemojo and rottentomatoes). And I disagree with any suggestion that the talent is subpar. From the actors, to the writers (Quantum-excepted due to the strike) to the cinematagraphers, the talent is much better than in the churn-them-out-every-two-years days.

    • That’s a very good point – film costumes look always different on the screen than in real life. The view through the camera changes their appearence completely, as does the lighting, as do the surroundings in which the respective scene is playing etc. Look at films clothes presented at auctions or exhibitions – normally they use to appear far duller and unspectacular than on the screen. So let’s wait and see and don’t judge prematurely.

  12. It seems like it’s the first time ever that James Bond wears a truly black suit (not dinner jacket) and a black tie, although it’s possible that Pierce Brosnan had also worn a black suit and tie in one of the films for a funeral, but I’m not sure about that. In any case, it’s far from being a classic look, and makes Daniel Craig resemble an undertaker, or simply a villain. Add to this black leather gloves that he doesn’t take off even when not wearing an overcoat, tough monk strap shoes and sun glasses, and you have a very un-Bondian image…

  13. I thought that Craig in SPECTRE attends a funeral or something similar (?). Therefore the choice of suit would be appropriate – but I am not sure.

    • Crockett & Jones haven’t confirmed it, but it’s the only shoe in their roster that’s an exact match in style. There’s a possibility it’s from another maker, but since they’ve made the Camberley, this is likely their shoe as well.

    • OK, thanks, they refused to confirm anything when I bought the Camberley last time I was in London, therefore I had to ask.

  14. @ Renard,

    I hear you about the difference between what’s worn on-screen and how the clothing actually looks in real life.

    There are a few people who purchased the Barbour Beacon Heritage jacket that Craig wears in Skyfall and many complain that it doesn’t look as good or wear in the same way that it does on Craig/Bond. Folk aren’t taking into account that even clothes that are bought off the rack or in bulk, generally are still altered to suit the fit of the actor/actress.

    I caught the “Designing 007” exhibit over the Christmas holidays and yes, a lot of the clothes on display look somewhat disappointing when on a mannequin. Perhaps because you don’t have Andress, Berry, Green, Dalton, Rapace, etc filling them out, the garments lose their luster.

    That said, I’ve passed the C&J shop here in Manhattan a few times, to check out the Camberley boots and they look gorgeous!

  15. A silly question, but what type/shade of grey is the herringbone suit? I need a new suit and I like the way the grey blends with blue shirt and navy tie.

  16. Does anyone have a picture of the suit DC is wearing, in SPECTRE, when he is viewing the meteor? I would like to see this suit up close from front and back please. Thanks

  17. Hey Matt,
    I was wondering, in the Rome sequences, what tie knot does Bond sport with the black herringbone three-piece suit? It looks too thick to be a four-in-hand, a Windsor knot to go with the Windsor cut maybe?
    Thanks!

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.