The Saint: The Narrow Pinstripe Suit

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For this blog to have a continued life after I run out of clothes from the Bond series, I’ll need to find some other material. If Roger Moore was chosen for Bond instead of Connery in the 1960s, here’s how we might have seen Bond dressed. Roger Moore had the same tailor in the 1960s for his television series The Saint as he did in his first two 1970s Bond films: Cyril Castle of Conduit Street in London. Yes, that’s the same street that Connery’s tailor Anthony Sinclair had his premises, and their styles had a few similarities. They both cut suits with natural shoulders and full chests, though Castle uses more waist suppression. But whilst Sean Connery wore button two suits, all of Roger Moore’s suits as Simon Templar had the more traditional button three front. The button stance is fairly low, corresponding to Moore’s low waist, and only the middle button is fastened. The lapels are very narrow, narrower than Connery’s ever were.


The example here is from the first episode of Series 2 of The Saint, titled “The Fellow Traveller”, which aired September 1963. The fabric has a narrow-spaced grey chalkstripe, with about three stripes to the inch, and Moore had a few other similarly striped suits throughout The Saint. Black-and-white television means that it’s impossible to know the colour, but it’s either navy or charcoal. This suit has jetted pockets, three-button cuffs and no vent. The trousers have a darted front with frogmouth pockets. They are worn with a belt and have narrow tapered legs with plain hems.


The shirt has a spread collar and double cuffs. The colour is impossible to know for sure on black-and-white film, but it’s not bright enough to be white. Though Roger Moore usually wore cream shirts in the colour series of The Saint, he was often photographed wearing pale blue shirts at this time, so the shirt is likely pale blue. Templar’s narrow satin tie is tied with a four-in-hand knot, and he can be seen in grey and scarlet red satin ties in photographs, making those strong possibilities for its colour. Templar also wears a pocket handkerchief, folded with two points sticking out. This blog will cover more suits worn in The Saint in the future.

16 COMMENTS

  1. It´s a nice idea to look over the brim of James Bond´s hat and expand this blog to an ode to the suitwearing man in international film.
    Other suggestions might be: "The Thomas Crown Affair" (both Steve Mcqueen and Pierce Brosnan versions), "The tailor of Panama" (relaxed Brosnan), anything Steve Mcqueen,Film noir,Godfather series, Robert Redford in "The Great Gatsby", Tom Cruise in Collateral,Daniel Craig in "Layer Cake", "The talented Mr. Ripley", "Catch me if you can", "The Avenger series and so forth…
    I hope you continue to maintain this excellent blog for as long as possible (after all, there are only so many suitwearing individuals in popular film)

  2. I'm going to try to limit non-Bond posts to other films and television done by Bond actors, and maybe a few other spies from the 60s. I might consider the Dick Van Dyke Show and Van Dyke was a big fan of Bond and British style. So far I've touched on Remington Steele, The Saint, and Never Say Never Again (which is not Bond as far as I'm concerned).

  3. An interesting entry even if a little tangential to Bond. Well done, Matt.

    It’s informative to see the development of Moore’s Cyril Castle suits, pre and during Bond, up until 1979. The early Saint suits I found a little boring if for no other reason than the one your blog clearly highlights; no matter what the original colour, they were all black and white.

    When the series became colour produced, about 1966, the suits became more open to appreciation. I recall a lot of dark 3 pieces and mid grey’s, browns and beige hues. Akin to Moore’s later Bond era taste. Features like pocket flaps and small turn-back cuffs on the bottom of the sleeve also appeared and these made the later Saint suits a bit more interesting than those in the black and white series’. I was never too mad with the excessively narrow lapels and ties of the 1960’s though.

    Where it get’s interesting is in the last Saint series when, aswell as the usual 2 and 3 pieces, Moore wore a few double breasted suits and blazers. As you mentioned before, the first Frank Foster shirts with the signature cocktail cuff appeared (even a high fashion frilled placket evening dress shirt).

    The double breasted suits and blazers, along with the 3 pieces, (though oddly not as many 2 pieces) continued in Moore’s next significant outing; The Persuaders, with Tony Curtis (which only ran for one season). What’s interesting here is that the credits for the show always mentioned that Moore had designed his own wardrobe for the series and, in spite of some of the more fashionable 1970’s pieces like pastel sports shirts, safari jackets and silk scarves, featured a lot of classics. I’d be interested if you covered some of the Persuaders’ clothing at some future point. I especially liked a double breasted blazer with subtle green and red brick colour stripes Moore wore a lot in the series.

    The suits of Moore’s first 2 Bond movies retained a lot of the feel of the Persuader’s suits, especially the double breasted styles. For the last 2 movies to feature Castle’s suits – The Spy who Loved Me and Moonraker – the suits subtly changed to reflect the fashions of the late 1970’s but nevertheless in a classic, individual way. Some of the features of his Saint suits like the breast pocket flap even appeared again.

    Like I say, very interesting entry.

  4. If you really want to push the envelope, you could review some of Roger Moore's pre-Bond outfits from The Persuaders which he designed himself. They are very much in-period (early 1970's) and as a consequence, rather flamboyant, particularly his all-turquoise ensemble from the premier episode.

  5. Moore's suits in Bond were all far more tame than anything he wore in the Persuaders. But when I write more about The Saint, I'll pick from the colour episodes when the suits were more unique. Double-breasted suits didn't appear until the final season, and a couple were very interesting. Whilst the suits in the later episodes of The Saint stood out through the cuts and details, the clothes in the Persuaders stood out due to the fabrics. But the Persuaders his 2-piece suits were not typical. There were three: a brown tweed with a 4-button front (in the old-fashioned manner, not trendy) and a navy and an olive suit with a high 3-button front, with all 3 fastened and the bottom cut away. That's an old equestrian style.

  6. Matt, Moore wore two different double breasted suits in the last saint series. The first was a navy colour and the other was something from the brown family (as he wore brown shoes with this one and a cream and gold colour tie).

    This latter suit also had the same unusually shaped lapel which you mentioned in your blog on 14 April in relation to a Half Norfolk jacket which Connery wore at the start of Diamonds are Forever.

    Autouniversum, he didn't wear an all turquoise ensemble in the first episode. He wore a sports shirt in that colour (with complementary coloured silk scarf!) and a pair of black trouers.

  7. David, there were actually three double-breasted suits in the last series. You left out a 4-button blue-grey narrow pinstripe.

  8. David, I had forgotten his trousers were black. All I remember is that the turquoise shirt and scarf did not harmonize all that well with his Bahama Yellow Aston Martin!

  9. Autouniversum, yes, i think some of the fashions were best viewed through dark glasses!

    Still, most of the really garish colours sported by the two main protagonists appeared in the South of France based episodes which were filmed first (watch Tony Curtis' hair go back to it's natural salt n pepper colour as the series progressed!)

    Matt, re The Saint, I can't recall the 3rd double breasted suit (4 button??). What episodes did it appear in? I do recall a double breasted blazer in navy with a kind of stripe through it. It had a flap breast pocket and he wore it with charcoal grey trousers.

  10. The 4-button double-breasted suit can be seen in The Scales of Justice, Series 6 Episode 10. I know it has appeared elsewhere too.

  11. The "cardigan" was a kind of knitted blazer. He wore it again in The Persuaders, perhaps even the same one.

  12. That seems to be a trendy hairstyle in the '60s — very similar to what they chose for William Shatner in Star Trek.

  13. Jovan, at least Moore's hair was real. And Moore's hair had a lot more body than Shatner's piece.

  14. Shatner… totally doesn't… have a hairpiece. 😉

    Find it funny how he still denies it to this day. Maybe got Bosley or some other restorative treatment at some point, because it looks very natural now.

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