One year ago today, we lost one of the world’s most stylish men, Roger Moore. Moore showed us how to dress for over a decade, in both classic and fashionable clothes. The sixth and final series of The Saint featured some of Roger Moore’s most adventurous clothes. In a 1969 episode titled “Portrait of Brenda”, Roger Moore as Simon Templar wears one of his most unusual double-breasted suits, which also appeared in other sixth series episodes such as “The Time to Die” and “The Scales of Justice”. Moore’s usual tailor for The Saint, Cyril Castle of Conduit Street in Mayfair, made this suit with his usual flair. Castle tailored Moore through The Man with the Golden Gun.
This suit is made of a lightweight flannel, likely a worsted flannel, and its colour is an unusual one. It is a dark, muted cool brown that is close to being charcoal. A charcoal brown. The coolness makes it an appropriate brown for the city, unlike warm, rich country browns. There may be a hint of purple in the brown, but the subtlety of the purple is very elegant in this suit rather than in a bold purple suit. For someone like Simon Templar who dresses in a suit to fit in with 1960s British society rather than for a job, he can wear whatever type of suit he wants to. And he certainly takes pleasure in dressing in a suit.
The double-breasted suit jacket is a traditional button two, show three and features Castle’s signature narrow wrap, where the front of the jacket has less than the usual amount of overlap to create a more masculine silhouette. The straight lapels are moderately narrow and feature an Ulster collar, which is taken from the double-breasted Ulster-style overcoat. On an overcoat, the collar is designed to flip up and fasten around the neck, but on this suit it is merely decorative, making it more of a faux Ulster collar.
The collar follows the entire top edge of the lapel and comes to a downward point. It gives a sportier and less formal look to this double-breasted suit than the standard peaked lapels would. There are no buttonholes in the lapels. Sean Connery’s half-Norfolk jackets in Diamonds Are Forever have a similar faux Ulster collar.
The jacket is cut with very soft shoulders that have a slight extension, and the shoulders are punctuated with roped sleeve heads. The full-cut chest has a little bit of drape, and the waist is tightly nipped. This combination of large chest and small waist gives Moore a stronger look, while the soft shoulders ensure that this effect is not exaggerated and makes the suit look more relaxed.
The jacket is detailed like most of Moore’s other jackets from this era, with exaggerated 1960s styling. The hip pockets are slanted and have narrow flaps, and the breast pocket is a slim welt. The gauntlet (turnback) cuff fasten with a single button. There are two vents at the rear. The suit trousers have a darted front, cross pockets and a narrow tapered leg, and they are worn with a belt.
Under the suit, Moore wears a cream cotton poplin shirt from Frank Foster with a tall spread collar, two-button rounded cocktail cuffs and a plain front. His narrow tie is gold satin silk, tied in a four-in-hand knot. The small knot is tied firmly and sits at the top of the tall collar stand.
Moore’s shoes are chestnut brown slip-ons with elastic at the sides. In an outdoor establishing shot, Roger Moore is replaced by a body double who wears light brown shoes with this outfit.
Character actor Marne Maitland, who played Lazar in The Man with the Golden Gun, appeared in this episode as well as in a number of other episodes of The Saint.