This outfit from The Man with the Golden Gun may be the one most to blame for Roger Moore’s undeserved reputation for always wearing a leisure suit as James Bond. This safari jacket, made of cream-coloured silk or a linen and silk blend, is really only one of two that’s a 100 percent product of the 1970s. Unlike Moore’s traditional safari shirts, this one is a structured jacket. It has natural—but structured—shoulders, set-in sleeves and a tailored waist. It has most of the traditional details of a classic safari jacket: shoulder straps and four flapped patch pockets with inverted box pleats. The sleeves have buttoned straps around the cuffs as well as a vent. The front has a dart that extends to the bottom hem. The front of the jacket has four buttons, and Moore leaves the top button open. It has a long, single rear vent.
What takes this jacket, more than any of Moore’s other safari jackets, into the 1970s are two things: the collar and the stitching. A safari jacket should have a shirt-type collar, but this jacket has a a long, dog-ear style, leisure-suit collar. The other really fashionable aspect of this jacket is the dark, contrast stitching that’s found all over the jacket. It’s on the collar, lapels, shoulder straps, cuff straps and pockets. Moore wears the jacket with medium brown, slightly-flared-leg trousers, so it’s not a safari suit.
Roger Moore says on the DVD commentary for The Man With the Golden Gun that Angelo made this jacket, but he also attributes suits to Angelo that were actually made by Cyril Castle. The jacket is likely not made by Angelo—who first started making Moore’s suits for The Spy Who Loved Me—but I’m not so sure that Castle made this jacket either. Castle’s collar were never this high on the neck.
The cream shirt is the standard from Frank Foster, with a large spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie is solid dark brown. The slip-on shoes are dark brown with an apron front and a strap with a side bit. Ferragamo is known for this side bit style and these shoes resemble Ferragamo’s shoes, though Roger Moore wears other shoes from Gucci in this film, and has belts and luggage from Gucci as well.