The Rock: Sean Connery’s Navy Three-Piece Suit

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A happy 85th birthday today to Sean Connery. In The Rock, Sean Connery plays John Mason, a British national who escaped from Alcatraz. The Mason character was written as an homage to Bond and has a lot in common with Bond. John Spencer’s character FBI Director Womack states that Mason is a British operative but says, “Of course the British claimed they’d never heard of him.” Womack also says, “This man knows our most intimate secrets from the last half-century…Mason’s angry. He’s lethal. He’s a trained killer.”

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Mason even speaks like Bond when he responds to Nicolas Cage’s character Goodspeed’s introduction with the Diamonds Are Forever line, “But of course you are.” For Mason to agree to cooperate with the FBI, he makes a Bond-like demand: “I want a suite, a shower, a shave, the feel of a suit.” The new navy worsted three-piece suit he gets is what matters most, as far as this blog is concerned.

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Though The Rock was released in 1996, Sean Connery’s suit more closely resembles an late 1980s/early 90s suit. The button two suit jacket has a low button stance and a very low gorge, which places the lapel notch almost in the middle of the chest. Sean Connery’s prominent shoulders make the jacket’s shoulders look more padded than they actually are. Still, the shoulders have a fair amount of padding, but natural sleeve heads gives the shoulders a natural but neat curve.

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The suit jacket is cut with a moderately full chest and a gently suppressed waist. The jacket is detailed with flapped pockets, three cuff buttons and no vent in the rear. The suit’s waistcoat has five buttons. The suit trousers have a full cut, likely with double or triple reverse pleats. The legs are wide but slightly tapered. The suit is very similar to the suits Timothy Dalton wears in Licence to Kill, but Connery’s suit has a much cleaner fit. Though this suit is strongly influenced by fashion in its proportions, it follows the principles of a good fit.

Connery’s white shirt has a spread collar with tie space and a sewn interfacing (revealed by a poor pressing), front placket and square cuffs with either one or two buttons. The collar design and construction could mean that this shirt is from an English maker. The tie has alternating wide navy and gold stripes. The navy stripes are woven in a twill weave whilst the gold stripes are woven with floats to look like a basket weave. It may be the Queen’s Own Yeomanry regimental tie. Connery’s shoes are black single monk shoes.

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9 COMMENTS

  1. Nice outfit. The jacket sleeves look a bit too long, but otherwise everything else looks fine.
    Looks like it’s a Windsor knot, Connery’s preference.
    Call me old-fashioned, but I much prefer this suit to Craig’s one in the precedent post. The fit isn’t perfect, but it’s roomy enough so one can move naturally (run, jump…) in it. And Connery looks like a man in it, while Craig, once again -but it’s not his fault, although I suspect he likes such slim-fitting cuts-, despite his age, looks like a young boy with such a short, overly tight suit jacket.

  2. I could have sworn I’ve written a comment on this post…

    I saw this movie when it came out years ago in the theatre and I liked it. And I think Connery looks great here, starring in an action movie at 66 years old. I still watch it when it randomly comes on HBO or Cinemax.
    The style of suit shown in here looks a lot like the suits my father used to wear in the 90’s. Personally, I like the silhouette a lot better than the current trend of of high button stance and unstructured shoulders. About the only thing I don’t like from this suit is the low, droopy gorge (which my father’s suits also have, unfortunately).

  3. I thought the tweed check sports jacket he wore at the start of the film was nice. The navy cotton jacket is a good warm weather odd jacket.

  4. Matt I am confused with what collar is. That doesn’t look to be a spread collar as you put it. For what I have seen of a “spread collar” is something that Sean Connery wore in From Russia with Love on the train or at M’s office. It looks as it might be a “semi spread collar” or what is considered to be a Classic collar according to Gentleman Gazette which is between 1.5-3.5 inches, please elaborate on why you think he would be wearing a spread collar. Also did Sean make a mistake buttoning the bottom button of his waistcoat?

    • A spread collar is a range of collar widths, with anything that’s wider than a point/straight collar and narrower than a cutaway collar. But these terms are all flexible. This collar indeed can be called a ‘semi-spread’, which is a subcategory within spread collars. The term ‘classic collar’ is the least descriptive term since depending on the brand it can be a narrow point collar or a semi=spread collar, and some brands in England use the term for something a bit wider.

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