The Checked Jacket on Scaramanga’s Island in The Man with the Golden Gun


The lightweight large-checked sports coat in black, silver-grey and red that Roger Moore wears in The Man with the Golden Gun is a popular one, and it is both popularly loved and popularly hated. The bold check is both a classic English look and a trendy 1970s look, and it continued the trend following the boldly checked jacket that Sean Connery wore at the start of the 1970s in Diamonds Are Forever. Large checks are generally not a James Bond look, as Bond mostly prefers to wear more subtle outfits. But bold checks are a classic English country look, and the limited colour palate of both the jacket and the entire outfit give this outfit a classic look.

The jacket is made from either lightweight worsted wool or a silk and worsted blend, which differentiates this jacket’s cloth from the heavy woollen tweed where such a check would more commonly be found. It’s woven in an open plain weave so it wears cool, and the pattern is similar to a typical glen check. Each section of the pattern mirrors itself. See the illustration below for the structure of the check:

The button-two jacket has Cyril Castle’s classic English cut with a full chest and narrow waist, and the shoulders are narrow and soft but have a straight line with roped sleeve heads. It has slanted flap pockets and deep double vents, which take from the English country look, and the cuffs are flared with kissing ‘link’ buttons.


The black trousers and ecru shirt match the black suit that Scaramanga’s 007 dummy wears and Bond later changes into, planned that way to make Bond’s change of clothing easier and more believable. The trousers have a high amount of sheen that suggests they are made of mohair, and thus they would wear as cool as possible in the heat on Scaramanga’s island. The trousers have a darted front, no side pockets, large coin pockets on both sides of the trousers accessed from just below the waistband and two rear button-through pockets. The leg is tapered to the knee and flares out to the hem. The belt buckle has a “G” motif, meaning it’s most likely from Gucci, who possibly provided Bond’s black slip-on shoes.


The ecru cotton poplin shirt from Frank Foster has a high spread collar with long points, a front placket stitched close to the centre and two-button cocktail cuffs. See the image below for a look at Frank Foster’s cocktail cuff design. Compared to Turnbull & Asser’s cocktail cuffs, Foster’s cuff are deeper and not as rounded, and the buttons are spaced farther apart. Bond wears a textured woven black silk tie, though it is neither a knit nor a grenadine tie. The black tie pulls the outfit together and adds a sober and classic Bond element to tone down the jacket’s bold check.



  1. Matt, this is what I was referring to in my comment on your recent "Don't Forget The Double Vents" blog re: the belt.

    This one, and the others featured in TMWTGG looks very expensive and elegant whereas the one worn with the dark brown trousers in Live and Let Die looked a bit "bargain basement" and therefore, unusual for Moore who is normally immaculately and very expensively attired.

  2. I'm also glad of this one. I've been wondering if The Persuaders will fall under your purview, since there is an excellent double breasted plaid coat that Roger as Sir Brett Sinclair wore in one story



  3. The belt is almost certainly a Gucci since both Bond and Goodnight have Gucci bags in this film. Bond arrives in Hongkong with his Gucci and Miss Goodnight puts the solex in her Gucci handbag at the boxing match.
    I´ve never read anything about Gucci being thanked or paid for this film but they must have had a cooperation.. Maybe someone knows?

    Keep the British end up!

  4. I still think the trousers could be a very dark charcoal and the mohair suit could be also very dark charcoal. But the sheen from the mohair could make it look a touch lighter then jet black. I often wear a light grey sports coat with dark navy trousers and most people from a distance think i’m wearing black trousers. Lighting and such can make it hard to tell the difference between darker colours.

  5. I actually like this kind of sports coat and personally want one myself. I have a question Matt, you mentioned here that the trousers are black but some say it’s charcoal, I always personally thought it was black and I wish to know your verdict on what colour is possibly Bond’s odd trousers with this sports coat. Also is there any difference between a plain weave worsted or tropical wool? Thanks in advance


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