For his first day in Montenegro in Casino Royale, James Bond wears a navy fine glen check suit from Brioni. The fabric is worsted wool in a subtle tone-on-tone glen check made up of two muted shades of navy. It’s the kind of plaid that looks solid until you see it up close. The navy is so muted in this suit that it looks like a charcoal blue suit. The subtle tone-on-tone variation in the check also gives this suit the light and dark variation that a solid charcoal suit would have.
The button three suit jacket has straight shoulders with a lot of padding, roped sleeve heads and a clean chest, though the fit in the chest is slightly tight and needs a little improvement. The jacket has straight flap pockets, four-button cuffs and a single vent. The notched lapels rolls just below the top button and have a high gorge. The suit trousers have a darted front, wide straight legs with turn-ups and are worn with a belt.
The cut and style of the suit follow what was popular in the mid-2000s, but overall the cut and style are balanced and classically inspired. Costume designer Lindy Hemming always aimed to give Bond a mostly timeless look with mild concessions to the era.
The Brioni shirt is unusual for Bond: it is pale blue with light grey chalk stripes. The shirt has a semi-spread collar and double cuffs with rounded corners. Bond’s tie is a classic navy and white macclesfield pattern; it’s essentially a checkerboard pattern with light blue boxes framing the squares.
Bond’s footwear is a black two-eyelet plain-toe chukka boot in the John Lobb ‘Romsey’ model. Chukka boots are often too sporty to wear with suits, though these John Lobb boots are made on a trim last with a thin sole that help them look appropriate with this dressy suit. This outfit started a tradition of Daniel Craig’s Bond wearing chukka boots with his suits, which he continues later in the film with his three-piece suit and again in Skyfall with his grey sharkskin suit. This revives Sean Connery’s style of wearing boots with his suits as Bond.