James Bond’s first suit in From Russia With Love is the standard conservative navy suit: a sharp English cut by Anthony Sinclair paired with conservative details. The suit is made from a navy cloth in what’s probably a medium-weight worsted flannel. Worsted flannel has the nap of the more traditional woollen flannel but is made from worsted yarns. It’s harder-wearing than woollen flannel, and the weave can be seen under the nap. Worsted flannel doesn’t make for a particularly fun suit, but it’s the perfect suit to wear to the office when the weather is cool. This suit has a some extra interest from a bit of mottling with darker and lighter blues.
Sinclair tailored this suit with a soft shoulders that take on the large size of Sean Connery’s build, punctuated by roped sleeve heads. The chest is full with a hint of drape and the waist is gently nipped. The button two jacket has a low stance below Connery’s waist to accentuate his large drop, and the jacket is detailed with a single vent, flapped pockets and four buttons on each cuff. Only the narrow lapels prevent this suit from looking old-fashioned.
Connery’s suit trousers have double forward pleats and three-button “Daks tops” side-adjusters. They sit at the waist and taper from a full thigh to the narrow turned-up hems.
The shirt is Sean Connery’s usual pale blue poplin from Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar, front placket and two-button turnback cuffs. The tie is a light navy grenadine. Bond’s shoes are black lace-ups, though it is difficult to tell if they are oxford or derby-style, but three-eyelet derby shoes were his usual choice at the time. Bond wears his then-usual white linen folded handkerchief in his breast pocket.