James Bond’s first suit in From Russia With Love is the standard conservative navy suit: a sharp English cut by Anthony Sinclair paired with conservative details. The suit is made from a navy cloth in what’s probably a medium-weight worsted flannel. Worsted flannel has the nap of the more traditional woollen flannel but is made from worsted yarns. It’s harder-wearing than woollen flannel, and the weave can be seen under the nap. Worsted flannel doesn’t make for a particularly fun suit, but it’s the perfect suit to wear to the office when the weather is cool. This suit has a some extra interest from a bit of mottling with darker and lighter blues.
Sinclair tailored this suit with a soft shoulders that take on the large size of Sean Connery’s build, punctuated by roped sleeve heads. The chest is full with a hint of drape and the waist is gently nipped. The button two jacket has a low stance below Connery’s waist to accentuate his large drop, and the jacket is detailed with no vent, jetted pockets and four buttons on each cuff. Only the narrow lapels prevent this suit from looking old-fashioned.
Connery’s suit trousers have double forward pleats and three-button “Daks tops” side-adjusters. They sit at the waist and taper from a full thigh to the narrow turned-up hems.
The shirt is Sean Connery’s usual pale blue poplin from Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar, front placket and two-button turnback cuffs. The tie is a light navy grenadine. Bond’s shoes are black lace-ups, though it is difficult to tell if they are oxford or derby-style, but three-eyelet derby shoes were his usual choice at the time. Bond wears his then-usual white linen folded handkerchief in his breast pocket.