In A View to a Kill James Bond visits the Ascot Racecourse, where the Royal Ascot is currently happening this week. Morning dress is required for attending the Royal Ascot. Most traditionally, morning dress consists of a black or dark grey morning coat (a type of tailcoat known to the Americans as a “cutaway” because of the cutaway front), waistcoat (either matching the morning coat or in a contrasting, lighter colour), and striped or checked trousers (stripes being more formal). But Bond chooses a less formal variant called the morning suit, where all three pieces are made in the same cloth. These are typically made in mid to light grey, and Bond’s is made in a medium-dark grey mini herringbone. The morning suit may have been made by Roger Moore’s usual tailor Douglas Hayward.
The coat is cut with soft shoulders and roped sleeve heads. It has peak lapels, a breast pocket (not all have them), three-button cuffs and most likely a one-button front (most traditional). The waistcoat has six buttons. Bond’s white shirt from Frank Foster has a cutaway collar, which is a very wide spread collar. It also has a front placket and double cuffs. Bond wears a light grey woven Macclesfield tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot. A light grey top hat, grey suede or chamois gloves and a white carnation in the lapel buttonhole complete the outfit.
Bond wears morning dress again (and for the last time as far as i know)4 years later in a different incarnation.
I'll reserve comment and let discerning fellow bloggers decide which version is the best and most elegant.
David, the morning dress worn by Dalton was a disaster. I would question the taste of anyone who prefers that to Roger Moore's morning dress. But I'm not going to get into that now, and perhaps I'll wait until next year at this time to mention it again.
That morning dress in LTK was a cheap rental and the cravat looked clip on.
Could you make an article on Dalton's morning dress
Has Bond ever worn white tie?
Bond has never worn white tie. However, Roger Moore can be seen in white tie in an early episode of The Saint.
Could you direct me to a place where I can learn about the Dalton morning dress? If you don't have an article already.
I have not written about Dalton's morning dress. The only other thing written about Dalton's morning dress is a line in this article:
http://jamesbond.ajb007.co.uk/jamesbondclothing2/
I agree with that article that it's a very poor example of morning dress. I'll try to write an article on it soon.
I found a site that may help a bit
http://moviesuits.blogspot.com/2011/11/licence-to-kill-wedding-attire.html
It doesn't have much however.
That site is mostly a copy of mine. That's one of the few outfits on his site that hasn't been covered on my blog and he comes to what I believe are some inaccurate conclusions. The cut of the morning coat is the least of the problems.
Matt, in terms of formality, where do you put the stroller ? Between the morning suit and the morning coat ? Or is it not suitable for morningdress, and only something more formal than suits in the journey, like dinner jackets which are more formal than suits in the evening ?
It’s similar in formality to the dinner jacket, but for daytime instead. It’s below the morning suit but above the lounge suit, though closer to the lounge suit. It’s not suitable for an occasion when morning dress is required. And even the morning suit is rarely acceptable when morning dress is required, the most notable exception being Royal Ascot. Black lounge (stroller) used to be worn for business in certain professions in London.
Thank you for your answer. I was considering it as an original alternative to the common lounge suit for my future wedding, but apparently, it is out of place -except if the wedding takes place in the afternoon I suppose.
With his mourning suit do you think James Bond is wearing a belt? I know that with all of the trousers in this film a belt is what is worn but do you think that is the case here? Also, I was wondering if you think James Bond is wearing the usual slip on shoes with this outfit?
I do not think that he wears a belt with his morning suit. The trousers probably have side-adjusters. Knowing Moore, the shoes probably are slip-ons.
Does natural shoulders mean no padding?
It does not mean that, but in the case of Roger Moore’s shoulders there is no padding. It means that the shoulders look natural and follow the natural shape of the shoulder.