Diamonds Are Forever brings Bond into the 1970s with some new styles. Suits in the 1970s saw a revival of 1930s style, most notably in wider lapels and wider trouser legs. Whilst Roger Moore is most remembered for his numerous sports coats, Sean Connery wears three sports coats in Diamonds Are Forever. The first is a full button three, half Norfolk sports coat in a brown and black herringbone tweed, and this is the first time we see Connery wearing a button three coat.
This coat takes after 1930’s sports coats with its belted back, but the deep double vents update the style to the 1970s. It appears that this sports coat lacks a breast pocket, though I can’t promise you that it isn’t there. The hip pockets are patch pockets with flaps and bellows for a larger capacity, something from the sporting Norfolk jacket. It also has the sporty detail of leather buttons. The sleeves have two buttons on each cuff. The jacket has notched lapels with an extended collar that has a rounded dog-ear shape. Some country jackets have a collar extension that can actually close around the neck, but the collar on this jacket is purely decorative.
The style of this sports coat is called “half Norfolk” because it incorporates some elements of a Norfolk jacket. Whilst a Norfolk jacket has a full belt, a half Norfolk jacket has a belt only across the back. The bellows pockets on this sports coat are like those typically found on a Norfolk jacket.
The brown of this sports coat is the best kind of brown for someone with a cool complexion. Red-browns suit people with a cool complexion better than yellow- or green-browns do. The black mixed in with the brown mutes the colour and makes it more flattering to someone with a cool complexion than a richer brown would.
Bond wears the half Norfolk jacket with black darted-front trousers with a plain hem from Anthony Sinclair. The trousers have Daks-tops elastic side adjusters with three pearlescent buttons on each side. Underneath the sports coat Bond wears a black long-sleeve button-front jumper, possibly in cashmere. The buttons down the front appear to be jacket-cuff-sized in 24L.
Bond’s socks are black and his shoes are full-brogue V-front derby shoes made by John Lobb Ltd. In one shot, a stuntman is wearing black jodhpur boots, which are tall ankle boots that fasten with a strap that wraps around the ankle and fastens at the side. The boots are the only footwear that are clearly seen in this scene, but behind-the-scenes photos show Connery in the same derby shoes he wears elsewhere in the film.
Could only found a French name for it "Contre anglaises en pointe vers le bas", see the link below
http://stiffcollar.wordpress.com/2010/05/24/quelques-crans-de-revers/
Bruno
I thought it was just like a throat latch, except on both sides with one housing a button underneath.
I thought a Half-Norfolk Jacket included a so-called >action back< i.e. how would you describe that? But I don't see such on either the side of the jacket's backet?
I see the rounded shoulder tops which are advertised by Gieves & Hawkes as well as a very contoured shape at the waist.
I explained above what a half Norfolk jacket is. It doesn't need to have an action back, just only some elements of the Norfolk jacket. There's no one single half Norfolk style, just like Norfolk jackets come in various styles as well.
Gay Talese wears a similar lapel style as this, and I believe it may be called a Tautz lapel. But different writers assert different styles, so I'm not sure if this is entirely accurate.
Daniel, a Tautz lapel is a peak lapel that points horizontally rather than up at an angle as they usually do. Connery is wearing a notch lapel, but with an unusual collar.
Is it not a type of Ulster collar, perhaps?
An ULster overcoat would, of course, tend to be double breasted but the purpose of this sort of collar seems to be the same – if buttoned all the way up (if in fact it could be) the collar would stand up, jut out and protect the neck and face.
Interesting jacket. Dark brown tweed, leather buttons, elongated collar, short lapels, three buttons, half belt on the back, rare details all combine to make a somehow classic look.
If Anthony Sinclair would reissue this one as well, how would you modify this to make it more contemporary and versatile?
Matt do you think Connery’s black trousers are flannel wool or mid weight worsted?
It’s difficult to tell, but flannel is likely.