The English Straight Shoulder

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The tailors on London’s Savile Row and its neighbouring streets are known for making many types of shoulders, from Anderson & Sheppard’s softly structured shoulders to Huntsman’s strong, built-up shoulders. But the most popular style is the lightly padded straight shoulder that follows the natural shoulder line. Padding is used to give the shoulders structure and clean lines rather than to purposely change the shape of the body. This type of shoulder is typically made only as wide as the actual shoulder, though some tailors extend their shoulders a little to help the sleeve hang straighter. Cyril Castle, Roger Moore’s tailor in his first two James Bond films, tailored his suits with this style shoulder, and he often makes the shoulder narrower than the actual shoulder for the suits in the Bond films. He uses a little bit of roping in the sleeve head to keep the shoulder looking strong, but not so much as to make it look unnatural. The straight shoulder has a middle-of-the-road look that’s well-suited to most builds.

4 COMMENTS

  1. Very educational. I assume the next step in this series would be the Brioni style shoulder?
    Connery and Brosnan, in my opinion, featured the most timless styles. Some would argue that Connery is clearly 60s as Brosnan is very 90s, but I contest that both are still stylish and acceptable, regardless of trends. A slight adjustment to each Bonds’ tie and lapel width removes the most apparent indicator of the decade.

      • I don’t think one is better than the other, beluga caviar is different from Peking duck, but I love them both!

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