The budget of Dr. No allowed for three lounge suits for Sean Connery: one dark grey flannel (pictured above), one light grey mohair (pictured below) and one grey glen check. These suits were tailored by Anthony Sinclair on Conduit St. in London, off of Savile Row. Sinclair was also Connery’s tailor for From Russia With Love and likely beyond. In the five Bond movies Connery made in the 1960s, all of his suits had a button two front, four-button cuffs, double-forward pleated trousers with turn-ups (cuffs) and button side-tab waist adjusters. Sean Connery’s Bond never wore a belt or braces with his suits. The parts of the suits that changed were the jacket pockets and vents. In Dr. No, all of the suits had jetted lower pockets without flaps and double vents at the back. After Dr. No the lapels and ties started to narrow, but here the suits are as timeless as can be.
As for the shirts in Dr. No, they are all light blue or white Sea Island cotton poplin from Turnbull & Asser and feature a cutaway collar similar to their Regent collar that they make today. The shirts have a narrow placket down the front and no breast pocket, of course. A unique feature of the shirts is the two-button cocktail cuffs, which will be the topic of the next post.
The ties are all dark navy blue grenadine ties from Turnbull & Asser as well. There is much confusion surrounding the grenadine tie and later in the week I will touch on that further. In Dr. No, James Bond ties his ties with a Windsor knot, something that Ian Fleming’s Bond despised. This and Diamonds Are Forever are the only movies where Bond uses a Windsor knot, but thankfully in all the rest he ties a four-in-hand knot.
See more about the light grey suit in a comparison with the light grey suit Connery wears in Diamonds Are Forever.