Every well-dressed man should have a navy blue suit and a charcoal grey suit in his closet. But have you ever thought to combine the two? Daniel Craig wears just that in Casino Royale with a Brioni charcoal blue suit. The fabric is a worsted wool in a subtle tone-on-tone plaid made up of a very muted navy. It’s the kind of plaid that looks solid until you see it up close. Being different from a classic glen check, it’s more typical of Italian fabrics than English.
The button three suit jacket has straight shoulders with a lot of padding, roped sleeve heads and a clean chest, though the fit in the chest is slightly tight and needs a little improvement. The jacket has straight flap pockets, four-button cuffs and a single vent. The notched lapels rolls just below the top button and have a high gorge. The suit trousers have a darted front, wide straight legs with turn-ups and are worn with a belt.
The cut and style of the suit follow what was popular in the mid-2000s, but overall the cut and style are balanced and classically inspired. Costume designer Lindy Hemming always aimed to give Bond a mostly timeless look with mild concessions to the era.
The Brioni shirt is unusual for Bond: it is pale blue with light grey chalk stripes. The shirt has a semi-spread collar and double cuffs with rounded corners. Bond’s tie is a classic navy and white macclesfield pattern; it’s essentially a checkerboard pattern with light blue boxes framing the squares.
Bond’s footwear is a black two-eyelet plain-toe chukka boot in the John Lobb ‘Romsey’ model. Chukka boots are often too sporty to wear with suits, though these John Lobb boots are made on a trim last with a thin sole that help them look appropriate with this dressy suit. This outfit started a tradition of Daniel Craig’s Bond wearing chukka boots with his suits, which he continues later in the film with his three-piece suit and again in Skyfall with his grey sharkskin suit. This revives Sean Connery’s style of wearing boots with his suits as Bond.