Daniel Craig’s Brioni dinner jacket (Tuxedo) in Casino Royale has been a great inspiration to many over the past four years since the film was released. But many of the fine details of the outfit are known thanks to an article by Christopher Bray and Nick Foulkes titled “Dressed to kill; Barbara Broccoli calls Daniel Craig’s Bond ‘a tough guy in a dinner jacket’. But getting his look right proved the wardrobe team’s toughest mission,” published 30 October 2006 in Mail on Sunday.
This black dinner jacket takes its cues from the most traditional of evening wear. It has a button one front, grosgrain silk trimmed peak lapels, jetted pockets and no vents. There are four buttons on the cuffs, and according to the article by Bray and Foulkes the buttons are horn. From what I can see in the movie I would have guessed they are fabric-covered buttons (and they very well may be), though perhaps they are horn, albeit very thick and shanked. More likely the writers of the article were confused because the trouser buttons do appear to be regular horn.
The cut is very characteristic of Brioni, with straight, padded shoulders, a clean chest and a suppressed waist. The buttoning point is at the waist. The sleeve head is roped for a more British touch, and the lapels are slightly on the narrow side and cut with a high gorge.
The classic Italian-cut trousers have single reverse pleats and a slightly shorter than traditional rise, but higher than what’s common today. There is no cummerbund or waistcoat worn here, left out to give the outfit a more modern look and to show off Daniel Craig’s abs. On the other hand, Bond’s trousers are held up by braces, the most traditional method of keeping up one’s trousers. The braces are white moiré silk (a type of watered silk) with gilt brass fittings, made by Albert Thurston and provided by Gieves and Hawkes.
The shirt is made by Turnbull & Asser in a white-on-white waffle weave. The shirt has a spread collar and double cuffs with a mitred corner. The front of the shirt has a placket with hidden buttons. There are short side pleats at the upper back of the shirt and darts to fit the shirt in the small of the back. S.T. Dupont made the palladium cuff links. The bow tie is black shantung silk. Bond wears black calf two-eyelet derby shoes, the John Lobb Luffield model. He doesn’t wear patent leather shoes this time, he just shines them well.
Costume designer Lindy Hemming talked about the dinner suit: “For the evening suit, he [Daniel Craig] was happy to go with Brioni, the Italian design company we’ve used on the last four films, because he knows and likes their style. But, because of Daniel’s more muscular physique, the evening suit is a new shape, so he looks modern in it. It’s fashionable to wear suits at the moment, so it doesn’t look anachronistic, and Daniel likes the tailored look.”
James Bond: I have a dinner jacket.
Vesper Lynd: There are dinner jackets and dinner jackets; this is the latter. And I need you looking like a man who belongs at that table.
James Bond: How the … it’s tailored!
Vesper Lynd: I sized you up the moment we met.
James Bond did not have a proper dinner jacket in Vesper Lynd’s eyes, so provides him with one. The improper dinner jacket was likely one with notched lapels and multiples buttons on the front. Vesper is able to do the impossible with this jacket and manage to provide Bond with a dinner jacket that fits perfectly without fitting it to him before hand. A person’s measurements will not be able to guarantee even an acceptable fit let alone a nearly perfect fit.