The Brown Barleycorn Tweed Hacking Jacket in Goldfinger


For country pursuits there is nothing better than a tweed hacking jacket. James Bond’s hacking jacket from Goldfinger is made up in a brown barleycorn tweed woven in a special weave. The barleycorn weave is a variation on the hopsack weave, which forms a pattern of upward-pointing arrows. Traditionally cut with slanted hacking pockets, a ticket pocket and a long single vent, the hacking jacket was originally designed for horseback riding. The button two hacking jacket in Goldfinger is made by Anthony Sinclair in Sean Connery’s usual style with narrow lapels, a low button stance, soft shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a slightly draped chest and a gently suppressed waist.

The brown barleycorn tweed weave and pattern

Bond wears his hacking jacket with narrow-cut, darted-front, fawn wool cavalry twill trousers with frogmouth pockets and plain hemmed bottoms. Cavalry twill is a typically heavy cloth that is characterised by its unique double rib. Though the trousers are just one shade lighter than his jacket, the smooth texture of the trousers significantly contrasts the rough tweed texture of the jacket, making them an excellent pair.

A cavalry twill weave (there are other variations)

On his feet is the quintessential country footwear: brown two-eyelet suede shoes. These are derby shoes, very similar to chukka boots in a style John Lobb Ltd. calls “hilo” shoes. They look just like chukka boots in the front, but they are cut lower like derby shoes. In essence, they are chukka shoes. The shoes have rubber soles.

The same jacket, trousers and shoes appear again in Thunderball but with a different shirt and tie. In Goldfinger Bond wears an ecru shirt that has faint, broken grey stripes and is made with a spread collar, front placket and double cuffs. Frank Foster possibly made the shirt. The tie in Goldfinger is a light brown knit tie. In Thunderball Bond switches the striped shirt out for a solid ecru shirt from Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie in Thunderball is a dark brown grenadine tie from Turnbull & Asser.

The hacking jacket in Thunderball

Before Sean Connery wore the hacking jacket and cavalry twill trousers as James Bond, he wore it in Woman of Straw, appearing in a total of three films.


  1. First off, very good blog. I am glad someone did it! I admire the clothes in the early Bond films and had thought of doing a similar analysis, however your knowledge excels my own. I will be following this with interest : )

    Good observation with the re-used wardrobe. I was watching Thunderball a few weeks ago and noticed that they used the same brown blazer and trousers. I'm glad – the films were released one year apart and it would be an awful waste of beautiful clothes. It makes sense that the character would keep some of the same suits. I think there was another suit carried across between Goldfinger and Thunderball – was his dark grey 3 piece at the end scene of Goldfinger the same as the one seen in the opening of Thunderball?

    David C

  2. The dark grey flannel suits at the end of Goldfinger and beginning of Thunderball are very similar though different suits. The jackets are just about identical. The trousers in Thunderball have turn-ups whilst the trousers in Goldfinger don't. The biggest difference is in the waistcoats. The Goldfinger waistcoat is a normal 6 button with 5 to button, whereas the Thunderball waistcoat has a full 6-button front and is cut straight across the bottom.

  3. Matt,

    I believe these are not boots, but suede oxfords (or derbys, cannot tell). One can see this best in the scene were Bond briefly sits on the trunk of Tilly Masterson's car after she has run off of the road in Switzerland.


  4. S, you are correct. They are derby shoes, though they are very much in the spirit of chukka boots. These shoes have typically been called chukka boots, even in Dressed to Kill: James Bond the Suited Hero. I've changed the article to reflect this.

  5. A favorite of mine. A nice example of how to dress rather casual but still very elegant.

    I prefer this style over the suit-without-a-tie look and the quite popular combination jeans and suit jacket.

    This outfit still works perfectly 50 years later.

    • I couldn’t agree more! This outfit beats the suit-without-tie attempt at dressy casual hands down!

    • It’s hard to tell from the film, but these cufflink probably look the same on both sides. Cufflinks back then were typically two pieces linked together with a chain, so no toggle. A cufflink of this type is easy to slide in and out of the holes. I have a very similar pair of cufflinks to these.

  6. When re-watching Thunderball, I had to stop and look again at the (single) rear vent’s length – which has a depth that approaches that of many ’70s suits.

    Then I remembered it is a jacket for riding, after all. Wonder what the excuse was for when deep vents became the norm?


    • You’re right that the colour is off. They look too light, though in the close-up photos the colour looks a little better. The side-adjusters on those trousers are not seen in either Goldfinger or Thunderball, so we don’t know what kind they are. They are most likely the same Daks tops as the suit trousers, but David Mason took the liberty of using a slide-buckle side-adjusters. I find that the slide buckle-type adjusters are more effective than Daks tops, which may have been the reason why they were used.

  7. I just re-watched the scenes in Goldfinger in which Bond wears this hacking jacket – it’s pure perfection! The outfit is casually elegant, and the structured, ever-so-slightly military cut of the jacket emphasizes the youthful Connery’s athletic build. For the life of me I can’t figure out why anybody would find hacking jackets “old-mannish”!

  8. It’s not a regular tweed jacket? It does indeed have slanted pockets, a ticket pocket and a long single vent, but I always thought a true hacking jacket had a 3 button front and a short lapel?

    • The original hacking jackets had three or four buttons, but so did the original lounge suits. If a lounge suit can have two buttons, so can a hacking jacket.

  9. Hi Matt,

    Big fan, excellent website.

    This outfit is one of many favourites of mine. Sean in his 007 role is a big inspiration for my style.

    I’m trying to get a jacket of mine that is as similar to this as possible. I’ve been searching around for suitable barleycorn tweed cloths in order to have one made.

    Can you advise what sort of weight I should be looking at to match Sean’s?



  10. Hello Matt,

    I recently discovered this site and am using it to help me build on my own wardrobe. Thank you for sharing so much of your research and knowledge!

    I guess this is more of a general fashion question, but I’ve always been told not to pair a jacket and trousers that are very similar in color but different, as it would look mismatched. Is this advise correct or is the above wardrobe choice acceptable because of the same pattern between the two?

    Thanks so much,


    • Hi Rob,

      The key is to avoid the look of a mismatched suit between your jacket and trousers. High contrast in colour is an easier way to avoid that mismatched look, but in Connery’s outfit he is able to pair together two items that are similar in colour for two reasons:

      1. The patterns of the jacket and trousers are very different. The jacket is a barleycorn pattern while the trousers are solid.
      2. The textures of the jacket and trousers are very different. The jacket is a fuzzy, rough and dull tweed while the trousers are a smooth ribbed twill with a bit of sheen.

      What are the same are the colour family and the weights of the two items. Items in the same colour family can create harmony as well as a more formal look. Even if the colours are similar, for the reasons above there is not a mismatch. The jacket and trousers need to be similar in weight otherwise you have a different kind of mismatch.

  11. Although different in details (vents and pockets), I thought the Rock pulled off a fairly Bondian look in Skyscraper with his brown tweed jacket. Arnold also wore a very similar jacket in kindergarten cop, from memory. So this jacket has a good action hero pedigree in my opinion…


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