For country pursuits there is nothing better than a tweed hacking jacket and heavy twill trousers. The perfect setting and modern take on the traditional English country outfit makes this one of Sean Connery’s most iconic outfits as James Bond. The hacking jacket from Goldfinger is made by Connery’s usual tailor Anthony Sinclair in a brown barleycorn tweed woven in a unique weave. The barleycorn weave is a variation on the twill and hopsack weaves, which forms a pattern of upward-pointing arrows. This tweed is heavy by today’s standards, in a weight approximately between 14 and 18 ounces. Though Connery often wore lightweight suits in his Bond films, this is one of his heavier garments. The simple pattern and colour scheme makes this jacket look more modern than other tweeds might look.
The button two hacking jacket in Goldfinger is made in Anthony Sinclair’s usual style for Sean Connery with narrow lapels, a low button stance, soft shoulders, roped sleeve heads, a slightly draped chest and a gently suppressed waist. This jacket is a hacking jacket because of two important details: slanted pockets—which are also known as “hacking pockets”—and a deep single vent. These two details were designed to make the jacket wear better on horseback. Slanted pockets are easier to access than straight pockets when on horseback, and pocket flaps keep items inside the pockets. A long single vent helps the jacket’s skirt to drape neatly on either side of a horse. This jacket is also detailed with a welt breast pocket, a ticket pocket and four cuff buttons. The button are made of medium brown horn to match the colour of the jacket.
Bond wears his hacking jacket with narrow-cut, darted-front, fawn wool cavalry twill trousers with frogmouth pockets and plain hemmed bottoms with a steep guardsman slant. Frogmouth pockets are accessed from the top rather than the sides, which makes them easier to access when on horseback. Cavalry twill is a heavy cloth that is characterised by its unique double rib. It is very hard-wearing, and Connery’s trousers are likely between a 14 oz and 18 oz weight, similar to the jacket. With such heavy clothes, he is comfortable outdoors in the cool and windy mountains.
Though the trousers are just one shade lighter than his jacket, the smooth texture of the trousers significantly contrasts the rough tweed texture of the jacket, making them an excellent pair. Ordinarily with such similar colours, a jacket and trousers will clash. The tone-on-tone outfit modernises the English country look so Connery does not look old-fashioned in his tweed.
On his feet is the quintessential country footwear: brown two-eyelet suede shoes. These are derby shoes, very similar to chukka boots in a style John Lobb Ltd. calls “hilo” shoes. They look just like chukka boots in the front, but they are cut lower like derby shoes. In essence, they are chukka shoes. The shoes have rubber soles for better wear in the country.
In Thunderball when James Bond is in the English countryside at Shrublands health clinic, he wears the same jacket and trousers. Just as much as in the Swiss Alps, the tweed jacket and cavalry twill trousers are at home at Shrublands. Connery wears the same shoes in Thunderball that he wears with the jacket and trousers in Goldfinger.
Connery wears different shirts and ties with the jacket and trousers in the two James Bond films. In Goldfinger he wears an ecru shirt from Frank Foster that has faint, broken grey Dobby stripes and is made with a a spread collar, front placket and double cuffs. The tie in Goldfinger is a light brown knit tie, and it is held to the shirt with a silver tie bar that is mostly hidden under the jacket. In Thunderball Bond switches the striped shirt out for a solid ecru shirt from Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie in Thunderball is a dark brown grenadine tie from Turnbull & Asser for a more refined look.
Before Sean Connery wore the hacking jacket and cavalry twill trousers as James Bond, he wore it in Woman of Straw, with the same waistcoat he wears with his brown houndstooth suit at the office in Goldfinger. Though it’s rare for the same a garment to return to a second Bond film, this may be the only garment that Sean Connery wears in three films.