Terence Cooper’s Stylish Hayward Suits in Casino Royale (1967)

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The 1967 spoof adaptation of Casino Royale is a mess of a film, but it’s a brilliantly creative success in two areas: Burt Bacharach’s music and Julie Harris’ costume design. Harris, who six years later would be brought into the proper Bond series to costume Live and Let Die, let her creativity run wild with Casino Royale to portray each character uniquely through their wardrobe.

Terence Cooper is second from the left, with Barbara Bouchet looking at him on the right.

Terence Cooper plays Cooper, one of the many characters provided with the moniker ‘James Bond 007’. Cooper is the film’s only ‘James Bond’ who comes close to the familiar cinematic James Bond, with the perfect combination of good looks, a strong physique and a way with the ladies. Julie Harris ensured that Cooper dressed in a way that would also be congruent with public’s image of James Bond, but she didn’t dress Cooper exactly like Sean Connery’s James Bond. It may not be coincidence that the two men to Cooper’s left in his introductory lineup are dressed more like Connery’s Bond to fool the audience into thinking they are more likely to be chosen, but neither man has Cooper’s presence.

From left to right: Barbara Bouchet, David Niven, Joanna Pettet and Terence Cooper

The most significant difference between the styles of Connery’s and Cooper’s Bonds is how much more modern Cooper’s suits are. Cooper’s suits were most likely made by Doug Hayward, who quietly revolutionised British tailoring for the second half of the 1960s. Hayward was partnered with Dimi Major at this time and made clothes under the label Major Hayward. Major Hayward are responsible for Peter Sellers’ suits in Casino Royale, and Cooper’s single-breasted suit is made in the same style as some of Sellers’ suits.

Cooper wears two suits in Casino Royale: a navy flannel chalk stripe double-breasted suit and a mid grey mohair single-breasted suit, both in Hayward’s signature styles that were fresh and innovative for the second half of the 1960s. Cooper wears the more conservative navy suit when being interviewed for the role of James Bond and the flashier grey suit for the final sequence at Casino Royale.

From left to right: Barbara Bouchet, David Niven and Terence Cooper

The navy suit is made in a double breasted style with four buttons, fastening only at the lower button (4×1). This is known as the ‘Kent’ style the suits that Prince George, Duke of Kent wore later in life. Hayward made the same style for Roger Moore for Octopussy 16 years later. This low-fastening style was trendy at the time of Octopussy, but in 1967 it was an uncommon style that Hayward updated in his own way as one of his signature looks. The button stance is very low—a Hayward trademark—and the peaked lapels are at a medium height on the chest, so the lapel line is very long. The lapels are in a medium width and are cut without belly. The fastening row of buttons is at the height of the hip pockets jets, while the upper vestigial row is placed about 3 1/2 inches higher and spaced further apart so the buttons are in a keystone configuration.

From left to right: Barbara Bouchet, Joanna Pettet, Terence Cooper and David Niven

The grey single-breasted suit has two buttons in a medium-low stance. The lapels have a medium-narrow width and a high gorge with French-influenced fishmouth notch, another mark of Hayward’s early style. This suit jacket is detailed with flap pockets.

Both suits are cut with a soft shoulder line and no roping. They have a trim cut with a little fullness in the chest and high waist suppression. They’re both made with deep double vents and three buttons at the cuffs.

The suit trousers have a flat front with frogmouth pockets and take a belt. They are closely fitted through the hips and have a trim but not overly slim straight leg.

Cooper wears two fine cotton poplin shirts: one in mid blue and one in cream. He wears both shirts with the navy suit and only the cream shirt with the grey suit. The shirts are by Frank Foster, who made shirts for Peter Sellers and Orson Welles in this film as well as for Sean Connery, George Lazenby and Roger Moore in the Bond films. They have semi-spread collars with long points and uniquely rounded double cuffs with the link holes placed near to the fold. The sleeves are gathered at the cuffs.

He wears different silk polka dot ties with the two suits. With the navy suit he wears a navy tie with closely spaced white polka dots, and with the grey suit he wears a black tie with the polka dots in a wide spacing. He uses a symmetrical Windsor knot with these ties, but because the tie is narrow in the knot area the knot is fairly small.

The weakest area of these otherwise beautiful outfits comes from how both ties are paired with matching polka dot pocket squares. The navy pocket square is in a triangle fold while the black pocket square is in a puff. A folded white linen pocket square would have been a tremendous improvement to not only dress Cooper more like Connery but also to dress him more stylishly overall. The ties and pocket squares are the furthest aspect of Cooper’s wardrobe to Connery’s Bond look, but the polka dot tie paired with a navy Hayward-style double-breasted suit would indeed become a proper Bond look in Octopussy.

Cooper’s footwear appears to resemble Connery’s demi boots from Thunderball, which were a trendy style in England in the 1960s. The boots are low on the ankle and have an elastic strap over the instep hidden under the vamp. He wears a black belt to match his shoes.

6 COMMENTS

  1. Is it just me or is it difficult to concentrate on the suits with Barbara Bouchet in shot? Seriously though, I think the two suits are great and you are quite right a out the matching display handkerchiefs.

  2. Terrific detail as always. Like Tremble’s suit, there’s an interesting doppelganger effect — close to Connery’s look but with significant differences to distinguish them. Matt, might you consider doing a Wardrobe Review of “Casino Royale” and “Never Say Never Again” after you finish the official 007 films?

  3. A fine looking pair of suits, and this actor seemed even bigger than Connery, so it wasn’t probably easy to fit him. The shoulders and chest look pretty nice. I found the pretty low stance working better on the single breasted suit than on the double breasted one.

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