Score one for Timothy Dalton! This tan wool gabardine suit from Benjamin Simon that Dalton wears in Tangier in The Living Daylights is his most successful suit of the series for a number of reasons. Most importantly the suit fits well, but it is also a classic style. The jacket’s shoulders are straight and padded, but not built up or out too much as most of his other suits are guilty of. The only problem with the suit is large armholes that impede arm movement. That’s what causes the shoulders to raise when the arms are raised, and most off the peg suits are plagued with this problem.
The jacket is a classic button two with double vents, straight flapped pockets and three-button cuffs. The trousers have classic double forward pleats that recall Sean Connery’s suit trousers in all of his 1960s James Bond films. The trousers have full, tapered legs.
It is well known that Timothy Dalton is not comfortable dressed up, and here he forgoes the tie. Without a tie he looks more comfortable, and it is acceptable to wear a casual suit—like one made of tan gabardine wool—without a tie. The darker business suits that Dalton wears in Licence to Kill don’t work nearly as well sans tie. His lightweight cream cotton shirt has an undersized spread collar, a placket front and rounded one-button cuffs. Dalton wears brown slip-on shoes and a brown braided leather belt.
Though Dalton does not wear a tie with this suit in the film, there is a passport photo of him with this suit with a solid black tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot. Though the black tie looks harsh against the warm tone of the suit and shirt, it is nevertheless a classic Bond look.
This suit, along with a three-piece cocktail ensemble worn by Maryam d’Abo in The Living Daylights, sold in a lot at Christie’s in South Kensington for £15,000.