A wool gabardine suit in British tan is perfect for in San Francisco’s mild spring, summer and autumn. Tan has always been a flattering colour to Roger Moore’s warm spring complexion, but it’s especially beneficial to his aging visage (or facelift) in A View to a Kill.
Gabardine is a classic material for tan suits as well as for odd trousers. Gabardine is a tight twill weave with a 63 degree angle due to twice as many warp yarns than filling yarns. The tight weave combined with a clear finish gives the fabric a slight sheen, but too much cleaning and abrasion can cause an unpleasant shine. Gabardine is either woven in a 2×1 or a 2×2 twill weave, the later being more common. You can see its structure below:
While this suit is a wool gabardine, gabardine may also be made of cotton. Cotton gabardine is most well-known for its use in trench coats, but it may also be used in suits or trousers, where its smooth finish gives it a dressier look than the similar chino cotton twill.
This suit has the usual cut of Roger Moore’s classic 1980’s suits, with soft shoulders, roped sleeve heads and a clean chest. The jacket is a button two with a low position, and it is detailed with double vents, flapped pockets and three buttons on the cuffs. The buttons are lighter than the suit, made of beige horn. The lapels here differ in shape from Douglas Hayward’s signature notch lapels, which are cut straight across the top. This suit jacket’s lapels have a concave curves along the top, and the pocket flaps are also curved on the side instead of straight down.
The trousers have a flat front and a straight leg with a plain hems.
This suit was made by tailor Henry Rose through Douglas Hayward. Listen to an interview with him, where he talks about this suit.
Moore wears a cream voile shirt by Frank Foster with a spread collar, front placket stitched close to the centre and rounded single-button cuffs. The tie is bronze with white and blue stripes that point up to the left shoulder, which is the English direction. Moore wears chestnut brown slip-on shoes and black socks with grey stripes, which don’t match any other part of the outfit. He also matches the shoes with a brown belt with a silver-toned buckle.