Bond arrives in India in Octopussy wearing a tan cotton gabardine suit. This suit is very similar to the light brown gabardine suit in For Your Eyes Only we looked at last week but in cotton instead of wool. Gabardine is a tight twill weave with a 63 degree angle due to twice as many warp yarns than filling yarns. The tight weave combined with a clear finish gives the fabric a slight sheen, but too much cleaning and abrasion can cause an unpleasant shine. Gabardine is either woven in a 2×1 or a 2×2 twill weave, the later being more common. You can see its structure below:
Cotton gabardine is most well-known for its use in trench coats, but it may also be used in suits or trousers, where its smooth finish gives it a dressier look than the similar chino cotton twill.
Like the gabardine suit in For Your Eyes Only, this Douglas Hayward suit also has a low two-button front, natural shoulders with a roped sleeve head, a clean chest and a fitted waist. The suit coat has three-button cuffs, straight pockets with flaps and double vents. The suit’s buttons are beige horn. The suit trousers are cut with a straight leg and have plain bottoms.
Bond’s white shirt made by Frank Foster in cotton voile—a high-twist airy and semi-sheer fabric that is ideal for India’s heat—has a large spread collar, large one-button barrel cuffs with extra-large buttons and a front placket that is stitched close to the centre. The tie has brown and tan stripes in the British direction, tied with a four-in-hand or double four-in-hand knot. I’d be more inclined to guess it’s a double four-in-hand due to its elongated shape. Bond’s shoes are deep burgundy moccasin-toe slip-ons, and he wears tan socks to match the suit.