Cotton is not used much in tailored clothing because it is not a very strong fibre compared to wool, linen or silk. And because it isn’t going to last as long, cotton is typically not worth the tailor’s effort and expense of making a structured suit or sports coat from it. Nevertheless, a cotton jacket is what Roger Moore wears here and it keeps him cool in Cairo.
The jacket is a structured sports coat, likely made by Angelo Roma, tailored with a canvassed front, padded straight shoulders and roped sleeve heads. The wide lapels are cut with a slight fishmouth notch. The coat has swelled edges all over to reinforce the garment. Shoulder straps (often incorrectly called “epaulettes”) bring this into safari jacket territory, though rather than being a safari jacket it’s more of a sports coat with safari jacket features, such as the belted back with a deep single vent, belted sleeves, and patch hip pockets with flaps. The set-in breast pocket also has a flap. The brown buttons are not horn, but probably made from the Tagua nut which comes from the seed of a tropical palm and is similar to ivory. It’s a commonly used material for buttons and goes especially well with the safari jacket look.
The jacket’s foreparts (front pieces) have an usual cut. The front of a jacket is typically cut away and thus curved below the button at the waist. On this jacket, the edges of the foreparts are straight and only have a small curve at the corner. They edges are, however, slightly angled apart for a more dynamic look than a straight front would provide. The very closed foreparts still give a bottom heavy look to the jacket. The cutaway of a typical suit jacket is to provide balance to the open space above the jacket’s fastening button. Closed lower foreparts, and particularly straight lower foreparts, look more balanced on a higher buttoning jacket with three or four buttons.
The stone-coloured trousers have a flat front, flared leg, lapped side seams and no belt. Bond’s blue and white cotton voile shirt made by Frank Foster has a long point collar and tab cuffs. The tie has stripes in the American right-shoulder-to-left-hip direction in light blue, dark blue, white and red. It is tied with a double-four-in-hand knot, recognizable by it’s long shape. Bond’ socks are beige. The shoes are tobacco suede horse-bit moccasins with a tall heel, made by Gucci with the classic green and red web detail. Read more about the horse-bit moccasins here.
James Sherwood’s book Bespoke: The Men’s Style of Savile Row attributes this suit to Douglas Hayward, who made Roger Moore’s suits for his three Bond films in the 1980s. Hayward, however, was not known for making such structured shoulders nor putting such flashy details on his garments. Sherwood even writes, “Doug would have been appalled if the suit got more attention than the man wearing it.” It’s hardly likely that Hayward made this outfit.
Before Roger Moore wore this jacket in The Spy Who Loved Me, he wore it as part of a suit with matching trousers in the 1976 Italian film Street People.