The Tan Basketweave Sports Coat in Live and Let Die

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Live-and-Let-Die-Tan-Sports-Coat

Moore’s famous sports coats started with this one, a button two in a fancy tan basketweave or hopsack weave. I’m not sure what the fabric content is, but I would guess linen and silk. Like the suit jackets Cyril Castle made for Live and Let Die, this jacket by Castle has soft shoulders, a clean chest, deep double vents, slanted pockets with flaps, and flared link-button cuffs. The buttons are light brown horn. This jacket has roped sleeve heads, whilst the suit jackets in Live and Let Die do not. It also has swelled edges on the lapels and pocket flaps.

A close-up of the sports coat and shirt fabrics. Is there a more specific name for the sports coat's weave?
A close-up of the sports coat and shirt fabrics

Bond wears contrasting dark brown, flat front trousers. The trousers have two rear pockets but no side pockets for a clean look. The cut narrows at the knee with a slight flare towards the bottom, for more of a “boot-cut” look. Since these trousers lack the front darts and top pockets of the other trousers in the film, and the rear pockets are placed much lower, these trousers are likely not made by Cyril Castle.

Notice the link-button cuff on the sports coat and the cocktail cuffs on the shirt.
Notice the link-button cuff on the sports coat and the cocktail cuffs on the shirt

Bond’s shirt from Frank Foster is ecru cotton with a jacquard figure. The shirt has a spread collar, rear darts, two-button cocktail cuffs and a fly front that covers the buttons with a placket that has one stitching line down the centre. The brown abstract tie is tied with a four-in-hand knot. Roger Moore thought it would be clever to wear crocodile shoes at the crocodile farm, so he found some burgundy crocodile slip-ons. The shoes have a squared bicycle toe, which makes these some of the least attractive shoes Bond wears. The belt, however, is just plain brown leather.

Crocodile shoes
Crocodile shoes

You can see more pictures of the shirt and trousers in the previous entry about the brown basted suit jacket.

19 COMMENTS

  1. Not a big fan of this ensemble (though it looks good on Moore), but that is a great, classic Submariner. Perfectly completes the Bond look.

  2. The crocodile shoes are flashy and tacky, but I've been in love with the rest of the outfit ever since I saw the movie as a kid. It is also comparatively easy to replicate (except for the cuffs on the jacket sleeves).

  3. Very, very nice suit.
    How about the one which Moore dresses in the airplane while going to Scaramanga island? I'd really like a post about it, if you like it too.

  4. I'd be interested in the blog, when it comes, on the suit Moore wears for his seduction of Solitaire earlier in this movie. The jacket appears to be reversable with a second jacket underneath although i expect its a trick of cinematography rather than cunning tailoring.

    When Bond arrives by hang glider he sheds first a pair of dark "over trousers" worn over the beige/oatmeal colour ones of his suit. He then reverses his dark jacket to reveal, hey presto, the jacket of the suit which perfectly matches the trousers. The dark jacket I have seen, worn independently, in publicity photos for the movie and is a sports coat with buttoned patch pockets (safari style).

    Moore does the same kind of thing in the pre credit sequence of Octopussy when a tweed sports coat is reversed to double as a dark green military jacket which matches his lovat green trousers.

    The Man With The Golden Gun plaid sportscoat was, indeed, a rather unusual choice for a showdown in the tropics but would've been a fashionable item of meanswear in 1974. Whatever he wears though (bar maybe the denim ensemble in Live And Let Die) Moore always exudes style and class (IMO)

  5. David, I agree with everything you've said; my only quibble is that the plaid sportcoat from TMWTGG would still be perfectly wearable today, assuming one had sufficient panache.

    Cordially,

    DFI

  6. Thanks Dan. I agree. The features of the jacket itself aren't particularly dated (as we can see from Matt's latest blog). No excessively wide 1970's lapels. Ditto Moore's suits from the time.

    My only quibble was the context; as a tweed jacket, even if relatively lightweight, would be an unusual choice of apparel for the Thai climate (even if most of the indoor scenes in Scaramanga's pad where it features would've been filmed back in Pinewood)

  7. David, the plaid sports coat in the Man with the Golden Gun is not tweed. Sure, it's wool (or a wool blend with silk), but it's woven in an open weave, not a tighter twill weave like tweed. Though I'm sure it's not lightweight by today's standards, it's probably very comfortable in the tropical weather. If it's too much of an English country pattern for you, then that's another matter.

    • Moore and some of the other actors actually commented on this. It was not comfortable! Apparently the heat was nearly unbearable even with nothing but swim trunks on it was so bad. Moore did comment that his clothes were a lot more comfortable than Villechaize’s heavy black morning dress, so it was probably very lightweight, though no one was anywhere near actual comfort while filming that scene.

  8. Matt, I don't know what comment in my above observations made you conclude that the jacket might be "too much of an English country pattern" for my liking?? In fact, I have worn sports coats with various patterns and designs over the years. I like them. I would happily wear this jacket too but not in a climate like Thailand.

    Your comments re: the make up of the jacket while, no doubt factual, are semantics and of no real bearing on the substantive part of my original comment.

    As for your assertion that the jacket is "probably very comfortable in the tropical weather" i can only suggest that you try out the theory and let me know how it works out for you in terms of comfort. Apart from the looks of surprise from both the natives and fellow tourists!

  9. I meant to say that it was too much of an English country pattern for you to consider appropriate for the tropics. But I think I misunderstood you originally. So, basically your saying that you think it's ridiculous for Bond to wear any sort of coat and tie on his arrival at Scaramanga's Island? After all, it is what Bond likes to wear, and he probably wanted to make a good impression since he was meeting Scaramanga for the first time.

  10. My only conclusion is that people can construe and misconstrue meanings from an observation according to their personal whims.

    It will be quite obvious from my original comments above what my opinion was on Bonds apparel and it doesn't concur with your conclusion.

    The other contributors can decide (though I'm sure they've better things to do!)for themselves.

  11. This warm weather ensemble of a sports coat looks fantastic and I think holds up pretty well. Just a question Matt, does this kind of example look to warm toned for someone with a cool complexion to pull off, as I have a cool complexion and am wondering if clothes like this is to warm for my complexion. If it is too warm what tips can work for me to cool it down and work well for my cool complexion? Thanks

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