“So sorry to have ruined the line of your suit for nothing,” said Blofeld after his men tore the left shoulder of his suit jacket. This Anthony Sinclair three-piece suit from Diamonds Are Forever is made in a navy cloth with blue chalk stripes, similar to Daniel Craig’s blue pinstripe suit in Quantum of Solace. The suit is cut and styled exactly the same as the black three-piece suit that Bond wears earlier in the film, with natural shoulders and a clean chest. It has a button two front with wide lapels, straight pockets with wide flaps, four-button cuffs and deep double vents.
The waistcoat has a six-button front with all the buttons fastened, though it is cut to allow it to be buttoned in that fashion. The waistcoat’s buttons are spaced further apart than the traditionally would, which gives the waistcoat a smaller opening with a high top button. The trousers have a darted front and plain bottoms. His pale blue cotton poplin shirt from Turnbull & Asser has a spread collar and two-button cocktail cuffs, but with only the first button fastened so the cuff rolls back over the second button. He ties his navy grenadine tie from Turnbull & Asser, which is half a shade lighter than the suit, in a windsor knot.
Bond’s shoes are black, full-brogue, three-eyelet derbys from bespoke bootmaker John Lobb Ltd of St. James’s, London. Lobb calls this the “Brogue V-Front”. It’s a style you will pretty much only find from bespoke shoe makers.
Regarding the waistcoat:
I always thought you were supposed to left the bottom button open – how do you know if you should leave it open or have all buttons fastened?
This waistcoat buttons comfortably with the bottom closed. Many English tailors cut their waistcoat so that the bottom can't close easily, and you can see such an example on Sean Connery's plaid suit in Goldfinger. If the bottom button is below the waist then it needs to be left open to sit down comfortably. Here the buttons are all placed fairly high, so they can all be buttoned comfortably. Most well-dressed men would still leave the bottom open in this case, but Connery closes his.
Most waistcoats aren’t designed to fasten the bottom button.
Most waistcoats actually are designed to fasten at the bottom, but as a custom and for comfort we leave them unbuttoned. Sean Connery’s waistcoats in Goldfinger are of the type that aren’t designed to fasten at the bottom.
One of my favourites. The navy on light blue is classic. Many would perhaps call it boring or plain, but I call it timeless.
As for the waistcoat buttoning rule, like so many other sartorial "rules", I believe most of us follow them simply because we're told to, instead of considering what would perhaps look nicer or fit better with our own personal style. Of course, if the waistcoat is cut so that you cannot button the bottom, then please do not try to. But if you can and you like it, then go for it. Same with buttoning the bottom of your jacket. If its cut with a higher stance and there is no awkward pulling, then by all means button your jacket the way you like. Just my two cents.
Bond wearing a windsor knot??
Jon, it's true that as long as the garment can be buttoned without pulling, it is okay to do so. It should also still be comfortable when seated. Buttoning most jackets and waistcoats at the bottom will not allow one to be seated comfortably, even if it looks okay while standing. Buttoning conventions serve a functional purpose.
Sean, Bond wore windsor (or half-windsor) knots in a few films. This one is clearly not a four-in-hand.
Does Sean do half or full Windsor on this suit?
It’s most likely a full Windsor.
How do you know it’s not four in hand?
A four-in-hand knot is narrower and asymmetrical.
Jon's right on the money about fastening. I do have to say that I would have preferred more contrast in the knit tie from his suit. Perhaps a slate colour or something.
I would’ve worn black or navy if that was me on the tie front.
Jovan, I agree that the grenadine (not knit) tie would have looked better if it had more contrast with the suit. With the exception of the pink tie in this film and the light brown knit tie in Goldfinger, all of Connery's ties were dark. Some contrast here would be a nice change, since the waistcoat is cut so high the dark tie makes the whole outfit much darker. Bolder pinstripes would help too.
Exactly Matt; the pinstripes are very subtle on this suit. I would have improved it with a lower cut waistcoat.
That is a high waistcoat, and there is something about the fit of that suit that seems wrong, especially compared to some of those in his earlier movies.
Nice suit in concept. I actually wore something similar today. But I just can't stand the 1971 details of this suit (especially given the nice suits in 1969 and 1973's Bond films) and it is hard to believe that this is the same actor from Thunderball and earlier.