Today is Roger Moore’s 84th birthday and we will be looking at his classic riding ensemble from A View to a Kill. The outfit closely resembles Connery’s country outfit in Goldfinger. Moore wears a very similar button two brown barleycorn tweed sports coat, but this one does not have hacking pockets despite its intended equestrian use. The pockets are straight and include a ticket pocket. But the jacket does have a single vent, which is most practical on horseback since it splits evenly over the back of the horse. Also, though the tweed cloth on Moore’s jacket is similar to Connery’s, especially in colour, the barleycorn pattern is slightly different. Moore’s barleycorn is actually a broken twill, which changes direction every two warp yarns. See the pattern below.
If you look closely at the jacket’s lapels you’ll see that they are not typical notch lapels. This type of angled notch lapel is known as cran Necker and often found in Parisian tailoring. The scenes at Zorin’s estate were filmed in France and it’s possible that this jacket came from a French source. Though the jacket has soft shoulders with roped sleeve heads, a clean chest and a low button stance like Douglas Hayward—Moore’s usual tailor at the time—makes, there are difference with Hayward’s usual jackets. The shoulders are narrower, the lapels have a gentler roll and the pocket flaps are more rounded. The rounded pocket flaps can also be found on the tan suit that Moore wears later in the film. Still, it’s possible that Hayward made this jacket.
Bond wears an ecru shirt made by Frank Foster with a spread collar, front placket stitched close to the centre and deep, rounded one-button cuffs. His tie is a yellow wool knit, tied in a four-in-hand knot that gives it the long shape. His trousers are dark brown jodhpurs, which tuck inside his tall black leather riding boots.
Completing the ensemble are a brown velvet riding helmet and gloves in beige ribbed knit wool and brown leather. This outfit is the last James Bond wears in A View to a Kill as his alias St. John Smythe.