Happy 84th Roger Moore—A Brown Tweed Hacking Jacket in A View to a Kill

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Roger-Moore-Barleycorn-Tweed-Jacket

Today is Roger Moore’s 84th birthday and we will be looking at his classic riding ensemble from A View to a Kill. The outfit closely resembles Connery’s country outfit in Goldfinger. Moore wears a very similar button two brown barleycorn tweed sports coat, but this one does not have hacking pockets despite its intended equestrian use. The pockets are straight and include a ticket pocket. But the jacket does have a single vent, which is most practical on horseback since it splits evenly over the back of the horse. Also, though the tweed cloth on Moore’s jacket is similar to Connery’s, especially in colour, the barleycorn pattern is slightly different. Moore’s barleycorn is actually a broken twill, which changes direction every two warp yarns. See the pattern below.

The broken twill barleycorn weave
The broken twill barleycorn weave

If you look closely at the jacket’s lapels you’ll see that they are not typical notch lapels. This type of angled notch lapel is known as cran Necker and often found in Parisian tailoring. The scenes at Zorin’s estate were filmed in France and it’s possible that this jacket came from a French source. Though the jacket has soft shoulders with roped sleeve heads, a clean chest and a low button stance like Douglas Hayward—Moore’s usual tailor at the time—makes, there are difference with Hayward’s usual jackets. The shoulders are narrower, the lapels have a gentler roll and the pocket flaps are more rounded. The rounded pocket flaps can also be found on the tan suit that Moore wears later in the film. Still, it’s possible that Hayward made this jacket.

Notice the cran Necker notch lapels
Notice the cran Necker notch lapels

Bond wears an ecru shirt made by Frank Foster with a spread collar, front placket stitched close to the centre and deep, rounded one-button cuffs. His tie is a yellow wool knit, tied in a four-in-hand knot that gives it the long shape. His trousers are dark brown jodhpurs, which tuck inside his tall black leather riding boots.

Roger-Moore-Barleycorn-Tweed-Jacket-2

Completing the ensemble are a brown velvet riding helmet and gloves in beige ribbed knit wool and brown leather. This outfit is the last James Bond wears in A View to a Kill as his alias St. John Smythe.

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7 COMMENTS

  1. It is indeed a very French style of lapel, popularized by tailors Camps de Lucca and more famously Smalto. French Premier, François Fillon is an adept of the style with his impeccable tailored suits and jackets from Rive Gauche maker Arnys. His suits and style look very British to a Frenchman (mainly because of ticket and slanted pockets and nipped waist and his choice of ties and shirts) and he is a known Anglophile, but those lapels and bright red Gamarelli socks give him a more continental look. Dormeuil, my personal purveyor, had them on their 2004 to 2006 suits.

  2. Thanks for that article, I really like this ensemble. The last picture is very interesting, beacause it shows Roger Moore’s personal watch : a Rolex datejust with Jubilee bracelet. Much more beautiful than Bond’s official watch, wich was an ugly Seiko !

  3. Hate to nitpick over comments, however, Bond is still wearing his Seiko in this scene. While this does resemble the Rolex style, Seiko provided production with various different models for Bond to wear in this film.

  4. Really nice outfit!

    I dont know the rules about dressing for horseback riding, but wouldnt it be nicer of he had brown boots to match the gloves?

    I actually had a pair of gloves that looked exactly like that, my favourite pair ever. Unfourtunatly I lost them somhow.

  5. The coat clearly does have a ticket pocket; do the pockets not qualify as “hacking pockets” because they are not slanted?

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