Red, White and Blue: A Blue Birdseye Suit in The World Is Not Enough


Today it is Independence Day in the United States (sorry readers in Britain), so I chose to look at a red, white and blue outfit from The World is Not Enough.

The red in the outfit comes from a Turnbull & Asser tie. The pattern consists of a white-centred red circle on a twill base. Since a tie is cut on the bias, a normally 45-degree twill rib will appear to run either crosswise or lengthwise. This tie is an example of the latter.

The white is a shirt from Turbull & Asser, with the usual spread collar and double cuffs.

The blue is Bond’s 3-button Brioni suit. The fabric is a navy semi-solid, which costume designer Lindy Hemming seems to like on Brosnan. Since she has never put Brosnan in a solid blue lounge suit she probably feels that a rich blue would overpower his complexion. The suit coat has slanted pockets with a ticket pocket, double vents and 4-button cuffs. The darted front trousers have turn-ups and are worn with a black belt.

Bond’s black shoes are not the Church’s Presley monk as seen elsewhere in the movie but instead a lace-up brogue. The shoe might be the Church’s Chetwynd model. A lace-up is probably a better choice considering all the running and jumping involved in this scene.


  1. I am fairly sure that this suit is a birdseye similar to the Goldeneye and TND ones. If not, it may be a pinhead.

  2. Matt, judging the second picture, isn’t the suit cloth clearly a navy serge ? We can see the diagonal lines. Any idea ? Thank you !

    • The diagonal lines are most likely an illusion created by the pattern. Serge would be in a solid colour, and this suit has both blue and white. It looks like it could be pick-and-pick from the diagonal lines, but at certain points the diagonal lines change into more of a checkerboard. When you look at birdseye from certain angles it looks like there are diagonal lines. Birdseye is the most likely pattern for this suit.

  3. If I go to a cutter who is competent would he know what exactly a navy semi solid coloured suit looks like? Im having trouble finding something to compare it to. Upon reading it seems you have decided that this suit is truly navy birdseye.

  4. A nice Christmas present would be T&A releasing all of the TWINE and DAD ties that aren’t available yet… :)


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