Ranking the James Bond Films by Wardrobe

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I’ve ranked the James Bond films by wardrobe, using criteria such as how well the clothes fit, how timeless or dated they look and how iconic the outfits are. There is much opinion involved in this, so feel free to agree or disagree. This is only a ranking of the wardrobes of the Bond films and not of the films themselves.

Licence-to-Kill-Dinner-Suit

24. Licence to Kill has easily the worst wardrobe in the entire series, with its baggy, low-gorge suits, a dinner jacket with two buttons, and oversized casual clothes. The clothes follow the fashions of the 1980s and discard the traditions established by the previous Bond films. At least the clothes avoid the pastels that were popular at the time, but not even classic navy can save these clothes.

23. Skyfall‘s clothes could have been very nice, but the suits’ shrunken fit will terribly date Skyfall in the future. Though suits that crease and pull because they are too tight are fashionable, the small suits make Daniel Craig look smaller than he is, and the tightness does nothing to show off Craig’s muscular physique. The tab collars on the shirts aren’t necessarily bad, but their fussiness is out of place on Bond. The film features an excellent selection of casual clothes, including a navy peacoat and a waxed jacket from Barbour.

22. You Only Live Twice features the least amount of tailored clothes of all the Bond films with only two briefly worn suits, but it is the first to feature Bond in a naval uniform. Bond’s camp shirts are quite forgettable, and the mock polo neck that Bond wears for infiltrating Blofeld’s volcano lair isn’t the most flattering piece.

21. The Living Daylights has rather ordinary clothes—all ready-to-wear—but classic and appropriate for the character. Unlike in Licence to Kill, the clothes aren’t fashion forward, and they look appropriate for a British agent. The clothes still have a full cut that reflects late 1980s fashion trends, but the clothes don’t look too large. But in comparison to the previous Bond films that all featured Bond in bespoke suits, the wardrobe of this film is a let down.

The-Spy-Who-Loved-Me-Safari-Sports-Coat

20. The Spy Who Loved Me brings Bond’s wardrobe fully into the 1970s, with the widest lapels and widest trouser flares of the series. The hue of the brown suit and the safari-detailed sports coat add to the 1970s look of the film’s wardrobe. The cuts of the jackets are classic Roman and fit very well, yet the 70s details unfortunately distract from that. The midnight blue double-breasted dinner suit is a highlight of the film’s wardrobe. Despite the clothes looking very dated, they all look great on Roger Moore. The naval dress uniform and greatcoat are fantastic pieces that bring up the film’s wardrobe.

19. Moonraker continues with the same wide 1970s lapels and trouser flares that Bond first wears in The Spy Who Loved Me, but the navy pinstripe three-piece suit in the office, the brown donegal tweed suit in the hunting scene and the grey dupioni silk suit in Venice hold up better than the brown suit in The Spy Who Loved Me does. The single-breasted blazer and dinner suit are similar to what Bond wears in the previous film. Moonraker‘s worst piece or tailored clothing is a double-breasted blazer let down by its wide notched lapels. Some may consider the safari suit a minus to this film’s wardrobe, but wearing it in the South American jungle is completely acceptable. The shoes he wears with it, however, could have been more appropriate.

Diamonds-Dinner-Suit

18. Diamonds Are Forever has a wonderful variety of suits in all the classic Connery Bond colours and patterns, but the suits are let down by wide lapels and wide pocket flaps. Connery’s fluctuating weight means that some of the clothes didn’t fit him as well as they should have. The dinner jackets unfortunately have pocket flaps, and the black dinner suit is the flashiest of the series with its fancy facings. The pink tie brings the film’s wardrobe down further.

17. GoldenEye brought Bond into the 90s with full-cut tailoring, though in comparison to the baggy suits in Licence to Kill, Brosnan’s suits have clean, elegant lines. The Italian suits and flashy ties, however, make Bond look too much like a banker. The cut of the suits looks dated and the tactical gear makes Bond look more like a solider than a spy.

Pierce Brosnan's double-breasted overcoat

16. Tomorrow Never Dies has all of the same wardrobe problems that GoldenEye has, but the vicuna-coloured double-breasted overcoat and the elegant five-button double-breasted waistcoat that Bond wears with his midnight blue dinner suit bring the wardrobe up just a bit from the previous film. The naval uniform makes a welcome return.

15. The Man with the Golden Gun introduces the first of the true safari clothes to Bond. The cream tailored safari jacket is a low point of the film’s wardrobe, but sage green safari shirt isn’t so bad considering the tropical setting. The lapels are wider than in Live and Let Die, but the double-breasted chalkstripe suit that Bond wears to the office and the double-breasted ivory dinner jacket still look great, and the charcoal suits are Bond classics with a 70s twist.

Live-and-Let-Die-Navy-Chesterfield

14. Live and Let Die brings James Bond’s wardrobe further into the 1970s from what Sean Connery wears in Diamonds Are Forever. The jackets have narrower lapels and pocket flaps than what Connery wears two years earlier, but the tapered trouser legs have been replaced with slightly flared legs. Whilst there are two leisure suits, such as the horrendous powder blue outfit, the classic navy double-breasted chesterfield coat is one of the most iconic overcoats of the series. The tailoring fits Moore better than it fit Connery two years earlier, which easily brings Live and Let Die‘s wardrobe ahead of Diamonds Are Forever‘s.

13. Spectre‘s clothes improve from Skyfall‘s with a wide variety of colours, particularly two medium blue suits that perfectly suit Daniel Craig’s complexion. The blue Crombie coat and the black bridge coat are excellent and unique pieces for the Bond series, but they still respect the Bond clothing traditions. The casual wear in both the cold Austrian scenes and warm Moroccan scenes equally respects Bond traditions whilst keeping the clothes up to date. The only problem with Spectre is that the suits are again too tight like they were in Skyfall, but the suits don’t make Daniel Craig look as small as they did in Skyfall.

12. Die Another Day features a few nice suits and two beautiful overcoats, but some of the suits couldn’t be let out to account for Pierce Brosnan’s fluctuating weight. He wears a nice heavy charcoal polo neck jumper, but the clothing in the film doesn’t particularly stand out. The wardrobe is let down by the blue printed shirt in Cuba.

Casino-Royale-Dinner-Jacket

11. Casino Royale has a perfect dinner suit and some classic suits, including a unique grey linen suit with peaked lapels, but the wide trousers that Daniel Craig wears throughout the film look a bit silly today. The casual outfit that he wears in Madagascar is one of the ugliest of the series, but the navy polo shirt in the Bahamas is classic Bond.

10. Thunderball features Bond mostly in casual clothes, which vary from classic to dated. The Fred Perry polo and the long-sleeve polo jumper look great, but the camp shirts have too full a fit and look outdated today. The Jantzen swimming trunks are somewhere in between. The tailoring—which includes three suits, a sports coat and a blazer—all looks perfect.

Quantum-of-Solace-Cardigan-2

9. Quantum of Solace features the most British-looking tailoring in Daniel Craig’s tenure as Bond, but even though the dark colours suit the mood of the film, they wash out Craig’s complexion. The casual clothes feature a shawl-collar cardigan, wonderful polo shirts and a Harrington jacket, but they’re let down by the only appearance of blue denim jeans in the series.

8. Octopussy‘s clothes have held up very well. The grey striped three-piece, tan gabardine and navy double-breasted suits by Douglas Hayward still look great today, and the ivory peaked lapel dinner jacket that Connery made famous returns in better form here than the original from Goldfinger. The safari suit makes its best appearance in the Indian jungle. Unfortunately, often Bond finds himself wearing disguises, and the number of circus costumes Bond finds himself in slightly brings down Bond’s look in the film.

7. For Your Eyes Only put Bond back into classic tailoring after the fashionable excess of the 1970s. Traditional three-piece suits and flannel suits have made a return for the London scenes, and a light brown suit appropriately makes an appearance in the Mediterranean. The excessively low button stance is the only downside to the tailoring in this film. Suede jackets and polo necks make up much of the film’s casual wardrobe, which have now returned to Bond in Spectre.

A-View-to-a-Kill-Grey-Tweed-Jacket

6. A View to a Kill has some of the best sports coats of the series, all worn by James St. John Smythe. The grey tweed and brown donegal tweed jackets are perfect for the country setting but not out of place for Bond either. The blue blazer is also classic Bond, and the cravat that he wears with it can just be passed off as a subtle disguise. The charcoal woollen flannel three-piece suit and tan gabardine suit both still look great today, and the morning suit is perfect. The wardrobe is only let down by the track suit, which looks horribly dated and terrible on 57-year-old Roger Moore.

5. The World is Not Enough features the best tailoring of all of Pierce Brosnan’s Bond films as well as some of the best of the series. The suits do not have the longer and baggier 90s cut that Brosnan sports in his previous two films, and there’s a larger variety of suits, including different shades of grey, blue and cream. The lack of casual wear means that there is less to look dated in this film.

Navy-Herringbone-Suit

4. On Her Majesty’s Secret Service has some of the most beautiful suits of the series, all with a perfect and timeless fit. Bond dresses elegantly for warm, moderate and cold weather in linen, worsteds and flannels. The only let downs are the slightly dated brown golfing outfit and the two ruffled dress shirts. The highland dress is another count against Lazenby’s wardrobe, but the good far outweighs the bad in this film.

3. Dr. No starts off with one of the greatest dinner suits of the entire series, and it establishes the high standards for Bond’s wardrobe. The tailoring has a classic and timeless English look, including three grey suits and a navy blazer. Both the tailored clothes and the casual wear, a light blue polo, still look fantastic today.

The plain-weave glen check suit in From Russia with Love
The plain-weave glen check suit in From Russia with Love

2. From Russia with Love takes the greatness of Dr. No‘s wardrobe and expands on the grey glen check and flannel suits with blue, striped and silk suits. Though there is a wider variety of suits, the sober simplicity established in Dr. No hasn’t changed. The film does a great job at proving how versatile a navy grenadine tie and a light blue shirt can be.

Goldfinger-Suit

1. Goldfinger has a wonderful selection of tailored clothing, including the popular three-piece light grey glen check suit, the brown barleycorn hacking jacket, the elegant golf jumper by Slazenger and the first ivory dinner jacket of the series. No other Bond film has so many iconic pieces. Though not as elegant as the grenadine ties of the previous Bond films, the informal knitted ties in Goldfinger better reflect the literary Bond’s wardrobe. The film is only slightly let down by Bond’s light blue terrycloth playsuit.

73 COMMENTS

  1. Once I force myself to separate my feelings about the films from their respective wardrobes (which isn’t easy), I’m not sure I’d argue any of your rankings.

    A great post, Matt – thoughtful and thorough, as always, and trying to look for new ways to bring the material to life.

  2. Very nice, Matt. I think Dr. No’s high rising trousers (up to Connery’s naval) are a little 50’s (as influenced by the times as the styles in LTK and SF were) so I’d swap OHMSS with Dr. No but otherwise I’d agree with these choices. I wouldn’t be as harsh on OHMSS as Bond is pretending to be someone else for a lot of it so it’s not his wardrobe.

    Where would you put Never Say Never Again? The dinner suit is very nice and there’s at least one grenadine tie and some T&A shirts with cocktail cuffs. Again, not all the clothes are his (Largo’s robe, the fishing denim dungarees…which you’ve still get to cover properly!), but those that are look really good on him.
    Maybe joint 6th?

  3. I would have ranked TMWTGG a little higher – the outfits are very well tailored and walk a fine line between classic and flair. I especially love the DB blazer, the pearl grey suit and the plaid sport coat. Heck, I even like the ivory safari jacket! The Dr. No and FRWL suits are true classics, but frankly they are a tad nondescript. I would have ranked OHMSS 2nd after GF, just because some of the GF outfits are so iconic.

  4. I think the suits from The World is Not Enough are probably the most timeless of the series… transplant that into any Bond from any era and it would still look great and not anachronistic. I do love the look from FRWL though.

  5. Great post. OHMSS would be number 1 for me. I know Goldfinger has some iconic clothing, but I’d probably put FRWL and Thunderball ahead of it. I’d also have QoS rounding out my top five. Otherwise, I can’t really disputed anything here.

  6. Great post, Matt. I haven’t felt the need to comment in quite a while, but the thoughtfulness and analysis that went into this one I wanted to specifically acknowledge. The summaries are well-taken the rankings well-supported. I personally would probably swap OHMSS with DN as well, and swap Octopussy with AVTK. A well-done post.

    • I actually agree with FS as well. I ignored the top two, but I would move GF down a bit, despite the iconic clothing and have FRWL as #1.

      Fun post, Matt.

  7. Who was the guilty for the disaster of Bond’s wardrobe in Licence to Kill ?

    In my opinion the sartorial peaks of the series are “Doctor No”,”From Russia with love” following a great distance by “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”.
    The latter have the some of the more timeless pieces of the whole series.

    Is interesting note that almost none of curators of the series,after the Connery run, have understood the true Bond style.
    James Bond is not a British dandy or a horseclothes; he have a very definite and clean style:
    two buttons suits in English cut,white or pale blue shirts,black or navy grenadine or knitted ties, dress shoes with elastic sides.
    Single breasted dinner jacket with peaks or (better) shawl collar.
    Some details can relatively changes with the times ,as pleats on the trousers or the width of ties and lapels (hold their in the middle and is better),but the style remains recognizable.
    You not need Brioni or Tom Ford, only a good British tailor or firm.

    • They do “need” Brioni or Tom Ford though. They keep production costs down by supplying the clothes in exchange for publicity. At least that’s the story. They are chosen more for that factor than any Bond style the clothes may have — Ford definitely looks more English than Brioni though. Keep in mind they could only afford a few pieces in Dr No from Sinclair, only the subsequent movies had him in more than a couple suits when the budgets increased.

  8. Fully agree, though for me, From Russia With Love and Goldfinger are interchangeable (along with the 3 piece charcoal flannel from the Thunderball intro).

    The ideal for me would be Connery’s physique in Dr No paired with the FRWL/GF/TB suits (i.e. rise lowered slightly on trousers along with button stance on the jacket). The cut of the suits in Dr. No are still fantastic though.

  9. You can’t beat the simplicity of a lot of Connery’s outfits, that’s why there probably the best. Though the draped chest on a lot of the suits and the high rise trousers date some of his suits to that period, but the fit is classic, all the suits fit Connery perfectly and are not too tight at all even with narrow trousers.

    Still have a soft spot for Moore’s Hayward suits of his later films, there impeccable. Brosnan’s TWINE suits should ranked a little higher, they were impeccable Italian cuts.

    But even some of Moore’s Cyril Castle suits and Angelo Roma cuts were excellent if you ignore the 1970’s touches.

  10. OHMSS at number two, maybe number one for me.

    And I don’t get the negativity about Bond in a kilt. He is half Scottish.

  11. Well, “Goldfinger” first and “Licence to Kill” last; fine. I don’t suppose there’ll be much disagreement with that overall. Sinclair’s suits in “Dr. No” always lacked something which was apparent from the following film onwards so I would have placed that much further down the scale. To be honest, while you didn’t care for aspects of the evening clothing in “Diamonds are Forever”, I actually think Connery’s suits here are some of the nicest he wore throughout his run. Far more elegant than those in “Dr. No”. Naturally, “Casino Royale” comes high in the ranking. Sorry, but I’ve never gotten this. The suits were quite unmemorable and far much too much casual wear. The hideous Madagascar apparel and you mention the polo shirt; well, we had one of them as far back as “Dr. No” so that doesn’t really mitigate much. I’d agree with “Quantum of Solace” where it’s placed as these suits, as you say, were Craig’s best in terms of cut and fit. “Spectre” and “Die Another Day” above Cyril Castle’s beautiful, exemplary suits in both “Live and Let Die” and “The Man With the Golden Gun”. Really?! What substance were you smoking?! While the materials and colours in “Spectre” were great let’s not forget that the fit of the suits has still question marks whereas in Moore’s first tow movies the colours and materials were equally good and the fit superb.

    Finally, I think you are a little hard on Brosnan, especially regarding his first movie. While I also didn’t care much for his tactical gear, I didn’t find it offensive and the suits were, as you say, a huge improvement over the Dalton dross and the ties = banker?? The ties were very classic when set aside the garish, abstract pattern ties which were high fashion in the mid 1990’s and which, of course, should/would never be seen in 007’s wardrobe. I still remember the relief I felt when I saw Brosnan at that first press conference for “Goldeneye” in his Brioni three piece suit which still looks classic today and sits head and shoulders over a great many of the suits Bond’s worn since.

    • Hear, hear! For what it’s worth, I first started noticing what Bond was wearing after seeing LALD and TMWTGG. One could very well say that those two movies first awakened my interest in all things sartorial. They certainly deserve to be ranked a little higher. I also agree with David that the tailoring in Casino Royale was fairly nondescript.

  12. Thanks Matt!

    I think you have done a very good job and all in all I can agree with the ranking you’ve done. Except for one point: I am very surprised that you placed TB so low! TB gathers some of Connery’s best wardrobe items and additionally presents one of the best (or even the best?!) dressed Bond villains ever! I don’t know how many times we referred to TB throughout this blog but I think quite often (it really is a kind of quarry for style discussions). So IMHO and without any doubt by my side it definitely merits to be put among the top five. I’ m not sure which rank precisely but by all means I would kick out TWINE in order to replace it by TB.

    There’s one other thing I must say (which I fancy David Marlborough should be pleased about): I made no secret of how I think of Moore’s suits from a stylistic point of view (stated it numerous times). But from a technical point of view Moore’s suits are clearly superior to Brosnan’s and Craig’s because Moore’s were true bespoke suits. Made by an individuum – by a tailor with his own conception of proportion, cut etc. Brioni and Tom Ford suits are more on the mass fabrication side – the approach to the customer isn’t as individual as Sinclair’s or Castle’s / Hayward’s. And therefore I would rank nearly all of Brosnan’s suits far lower than you actually did. To me Brioni simply is not appropriate for Bond. With the Tom Ford suits it’s a bit different because the influence of the respective costume designer on their design is perceptable which makes a big difference in comparison (i.e. QoS’s Frogley vs. Temime for SF + SPECTRE). But Brosnan’s look all the same (boring). Perhaps the results were different if it wouldn’t have benn all the time Lindy Hemming. But anyway I am against Brioni for Bond.

  13. One additional comment:
    As to TB I think you contradict yourself by stating that the camp shirts are cut too wide and therefore look outdated. That’s your closing comment in the article on the blue/ grey butcher stripe shirt: “Along with most of the other casual outfits in Thunderball, this one holds up very well today.”
    I personnally prefer shirts which are a bit more roomier than the overmuch skinny ones en vogue today. It’s definitely more on the timeless side.

  14. Really don’t agree about the TB shirts. For heaven’s sake, you are at the beach by the sea trying to stay cool, not at a fashion parade! They could be marginally more tapered at the waist maybe but overall the look is correct, elegant and fit for purpose.

    On a separate note, I would rate Connery’ s light grey suit worn with Fiona Volpe on a par with the Goldfinger light grey suit.

  15. Aftrr thinking some more about this, my top five would be FRWL, OHMSS, QoS, Octopussy, and Thunderball. I think I could make a reasonable argument for any of those films as the most sartorially excellent in the series.

    Notice that I have omitted Goldfinger. I maintain that, much with like non-clothing rankings of the films, Goldfinger wins by default because it is considered the quintessential Bond film. (Indeed, if I was tasked with selecting one Bond film to show someone who had no understanding of Bond or its place in our culture, Goldfinger is probably the movie I would choose.) Nevertheless, I don’t think the suits in Goldfinger fit particularly well. The shoulders look off to me, and the cut seems fuller than that in FRWL and TB. Frankly, I think the films listed in my top five above all feature better examples of British-looking tailoring.

  16. Renard – well said defense of bespoke tailoring the and problems, post-1995 of the suits. And like, FS, I have been thinking about this more too, and my top movies, all things considered, trying to remove my own bias out of it (so Diamonds is not at the bottom of the list), the top would be FRWL, Octopussy (and the circus outfits are the perfect disguises!), OHMSS, DN tied with TB, FYEO-AVTK tie, Casino Royale (despite Brioni and the Madagascar shirt). I actually would put MR and Spy on next along with L&LD. The worst – L2K, Skyfall and SPECTRE (well intended, but the fits are just horrible), and Goldeneye.

    • Christian, I’m amazed that Matt placed the Angelo Roma suits so low on the ranking especially given his cogent argument on this site in favour of the Moonraker silk suit! Fashionable details aside, in terms of fit, it made no sense to place these so low and, Spectre so high. Your ranking (bar Dr No and Casino Royale’s high placing) is actually fairer overall, in my opinion.

  17. Matt, what do you think would be the best outfit for bond to relax at a pool like in Goldfinger nowdays? I think the Playsuit is ok for the 60’s, even when its more a women’s piece of cloth.

  18. Moores Hayward jackets and suits rank highest with me, impeccably tailored to his physique (and worn all too well by an ageing Roger). My number one ranked outfit of any film will probably always be the pictured St John Smythe-one, with the Burberry tie and charcoal flannel trousers. Burberry made numerous variations of the navy tartan tie through the years – the one from the film is very, very hard to find.

    I’ve attended an actual foal sale at Goffs in an outfit faithful to the film, albeit the Hayward jacket substituted for a custom Dressler I had made years ago. No Pegasus, Ithacus or Infernus for sale though…

    • I, too, have a soft spot for the outfit you mention – I might rank it in my top five, along with the GF hacking jacket, the MR donegal tweed suit, the OHMSS glen check suit, and the TMWGG DB blazer.

  19. Lists like these are of course subjective, everyone has their own opinions, but they’re also a lot of fun. I know that whenever I try to rank the Bond films the list is slightly different every time.
    I agree wholeheartedly with the first and last choices and with Quantum being Craig’s best film from a sartorial point of view (although I do like much of the casualwear in the two most recent films, but the too-tight suits are such a letdown.) It’s hard for me to argue with your list here, you make a very compelling argument for your rankings! Looking at suits exclusively, my favorites appear in the first 3 Connery films, OHMSS, the Brosnan era, and Moore’s Cyril Castle period.

  20. And as a quick aside, excellent choice of screenshot for Licence to Kill– proof that not everything in the film is as unattractive as the suits!

  21. I am more or less agree. Goldfinger, From Russia with love (Connery), On her’s majesty secret service (Lazemby), For your eyes only, Octopussy (Moore), The world is not enough (Brosnan) are the best.
    I like very much Brioni style, so I see Goldeneye and Tomorrow never dies in a more advanced position in the classification. I am a bank clerk, so I think that Brosnan’ neckties are beautiful, not minimalist!

  22. David,

    I must admit that the Angelo Roma suits have about the best silhouette of any in the series. Few rival them – the Dr. No blazer, the Somerset suit, the Octopussy office grey or navy chalkstripe (did we ever determine if that suit was grey or navy?-I have seen prints of the film where it appeared both); the dinner suits from the same movie. That’s all that come to mind, again strictly on classic “fit” and silhouette and not counting the details. Those suits really do look like they were perfectly constructed around Roger’s body.

  23. I can’t help but note that denim jeans are mentioned as a negative for Quantum, and called “blue” when they are infact a light cream, but no mention of actualt blue-jeans in Live and Let Die and Dr No. Certainly denim is appropriate for the task of fishing and the grease and gasoline that can be troublesome in boatsmanship (dungarees for example). Wouldn’t the jeans in QoS be fitting for a third world country, and his objective?

    Speaking of QoS, is that cardigan black? It always looked black to me, and I feel put off by the pairing of a black cardigan with brown chinos and suede shoes. A conservative black chuka, loafer, or monk strap with grey trousers might be a better option, if it is black.

    Also, the highland dress in OHMSS is completely traditional and fitting for the cover. A lace cravat is actually the traditional and more formal alternative to a winged shirt with bowtie. Thankfully, they had him wear more formal dark coloured kilt hose, and not cream.

    Licence to Kill is AWFUL! That’s a $50 rental tuxedo, if that.

    Any opinions on the velvet facing of the DAF dinner jacket? It is a fashion feature, but could velvet ever be appropriate? I would think in a less formal ensemble with non-matching trousers, perhaps a holiday party or nightclub event. I don’t approve of it, but I try to get my head around it.

    I still take issue with the short sleeve shirt under Craig’s suit in Casino …….

    • Sorry, but you are mistaken about the blue jeans. Bond wears blue jeans during the climax of Quantum of Solace. There are no blue jeans in Live and Let Die and Dr. No. In Live and Let Die you are probably thinking of the far-worse “horrendous powder blue outfit” I mentioned here. The trousers in Dr. No you are thinking of are light blue chinos. The cream jeans in Quantum of Solace are great and I have no problem with them. I would have preferred something similar for the climax, or Fleming-esque black jeans.

      Yes, the cardigan is black, but I actually think it looks nice with the tan jeans. But grey flannel trousers with black shoes may have looked nicer (though rather old-fashioned).

      The facings on the Diamonds Are Forever dinner jacket are not velvet but rather artificial silk in a wavy black and burgundy pattern. You can read more about it here: http://www.bondsuits.com/a-flamboyant-dinner-suit/

    • I didn’t mind the jeans in the climax of QoS since they were worn for a battle sequence. More appropriate and hard-wearing than chinos but less costumey than combat trousers.

    • Matt, this entry is amazing! On the denim tip, I *think* that Dalton wears jeans when sneaking into Krest’s factory in LTK.

      TERRYCLOTH PLAYSUITS FOREVER

  24. I also like the QoS cream jeans very much and I don’t see why Craig shouldn’t have worn blue jeans during the climax (it’s a hard and dangerous job he has to do). Black jeans in general are – IMO – an aberration of taste even if they’re mentioned in Fleming’s novels. Some people may have reservations about jeans in general (being not suitable for Bond) but I don’t share that because jeans are nowadays a classic wardrobe staple. Of course you shouldn’t overuse them and they certainly shouldn’t be worn together with a tie.
    Grey flannel trousers in QoS: That wouldn’t have suited neither location nor climate (it’s a sunny day in Italy). Black shoes: For casual wear I would generally be careful with black shoes – brown, burgundy etc. normally works far better.

    • If it’s cool enough for a cardigan, it’s cool enough for light grey lightweight flannels. They would be perfect for both the location and the weather. Black shoes with casual wear are a Bond staple, though not so fashionable recently and I agree that brown and burgundy are better casually. I would replace the black cardigan with navy to avoid having any black in the outfit that wouldn’t pair so well with brown.

  25. Yes, lightweight flannel could be all right. From the scene in question I only remember a woman taking a sunbath so to me it seemed a bit hot for flannel (which is a typical winter cloth). And of course a navy or mid blue cardigan would have been far better.

  26. Lovely work Matt. I really enjoyed reading your list here. Do you reckon you’ll create other lists similar to this one? Perhaps a list ranking the wardrobes that best helped illustrate their respective movie’s storyline (for eg in Casino Royale, the suits used earlier in the movies were more modern and arguably less sophisticated but as the movie progresses and Bond edges closer toward the Bond we all know, his wardrobe accordingly altered). Or perhaps a list similar to this one, but instead of accounting for timelessness, you’d perhaps justify why each suits were perhaps best for their time (for eg, Skyfall/Spectre’s modern tight fit and some Roger Moore more colourful suits might fair better). Just throwing out some ideas – but once again – lovely work!

  27. I know Craig’s Bond has fashionably tight suits, but the look of them is, while tight, good if it wasn’t for the waist, and the shoulders could have been a bit wider like in SPECTRE as well. I do however, wish that Jany Temime would have left a little room in the waist, because, looking back on it, the Skyfall and SPECTRE clothing would have been among the best in the series had it not been for the tight fit. How I wish there could be a re-do button on that.

  28. Thanks for all of your work on this site Matt. Great compilation. A point worth making is that Dr No and FRWL are, in the aspects of fashion silhouettes, contemporaneous with slim-line modern cuts. I note that the Milan catwalks are going back to a looser fit. I suggest that in another 3 years or so Moore’s fuller silhouette will be back in fashion. It might be fun to re-order and re-releasse the list if this is the case?

    • Connery’s suits had a fuller cut than Moore’s did. Connery’s suits have a, especially full cut compared to today’s slim fashion. I don’t think I will change my mind much in three years if fashion changed. My opinions on this matter haven’t changed much in the past decade.

  29. Actor suit rankings:
    1.Daniel Craig, Tom Ford and Brioni
    2.Pierce Brosnan, Brioni
    3.Sean Connery, Anthony Sincliar
    4.George Lazenby, Dimi Major
    5.Roger Moore, Cyril Castle, Angelo Roma, Douglas Hayward
    6.Timothy Dalton, whatever the hell his suits are

    tux rankings:
    1.Daniel Craig, Tom Ford and Brioni
    2.Roger Moore, Cyril Castle, Angelo Roma, Douglas Hayward
    3.Sean Connery, Anthony Sinclair
    4.Pierce Brosnan, Brioni
    5.George Lazenby, idk the manufacturer
    6.Timothy Dalton, idk the manufacturer

    Do you agree with these rankings? How would you do these rankings in the way I have just done?

    • I would rank them considerably different. For suits I would rank:

      1. George Lazenby
      2. Sean Connery
      3. Roger Moore
      4. Pierce Brosnan
      5. Daniel Craig
      6. Timothy Dalton

      For black tie I would rank them slightly different:

      1. Sean Connery
      2. Roger Moore
      3. Pierce Brosnan
      4. George Lazenby
      5. Daniel Craig
      6. Timothy Dalton

      Lazenby’s dinner suit was also made by Dimi Major.

      • Matt, how would you rank the actors based on how well suits look on them? (not necessarily how great the suits are)

      • I don’t think it’s fair to say that suits can look better on one person than they can on another. It comes down to how the suit fits the person. Of all the Bonds, Brosnan is the easiest to fit (in his first three films) because his body is shaped like a ruler. He’s like a blank slate for the tailor to work with, and it’s easy to get cloth to shape well to his simple shape. Daniel Craig is the most difficult to fit when he’s at his most muscular. His body has more contours to fit the cloth around, and suits that are either too tight or too loose both have the effect of making him look heftier than he should. As long as the suit is cut well for each person, they will look equally as good in the suits.

  30. Why did you rank Brosnan and Craig’s so low for suits? I probably have a different view because I have worn both Brioni and Tom Ford suits in the same style that they wear those suits, but I think that they are both the most luxurious suits out of all the ones that bond wears in the series. I know that Tom Ford is the best American suit manufacturer, but do you think that Brioni is the best Italian suit manufacturer compared to its competitors like Armani, Zegna, and Brunello Cucinelli?

    • Brioni is one of the best Italian suit manufacturers, but they’re not so interesting. Daniel Craig has had two films of poorly fitted Tom Ford suits. Tom Ford is not an American manufacturer, it’s an American brand. They’re made at the Zegna factories in Switzerland and Italy to the highest standards those factories can probably make. Quality is not as important as fit.

    • I know that the Tom Ford O’connors in skyfall and spectre are not of the best fits. Do you think that Craig’s Brioni suits in Casino Royale or Tom Ford Regency suits in Quantum of Solace are better and why?

      • I think the Tom Ford Regency suit fits the best on Craig. The quality between Tom Ford and Brioni is similar, but the Tom Ford suit has more shape. The shape of the Tom Ford suit makes it better in my opinion.

  31. Now I am going to show you my favorite single suits and Tuxes for each actor:

    Suits:
    Sean Connery: Grey Glen Check 3 piece; Anthony Sinclair, Goldfinger
    George Lazenby: Navy herringbone 3-piece, Dimi Major, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service
    Roger Moore: Navy Double Breasted; Douglas Hayward, Octopussy
    Timothy Dalton: Tan 2-piece; IDK manufacturer; The Living Daylights
    Pierce Brosnan: Navy Birdseye 3-piece; Brioni; Tomorrow Never Dies
    Daniel Craig: Navy Pinstripe 2-piece; Tom Ford; Quantum of Solace

    Tuxes:
    Sean Connery: Ivory single-breasted; Anthony Sinclair; Goldfinger
    George Lazenby: Well he only has one!
    Roger Moore: Midnight Blue Double-breasted; Angelo Roma; The Spy Who Loved Me
    Timothy Dalton: Black Double-breasted; IDK manufacturer; The Living Daylights
    Pierce Brosnan: Midnight Blue single-breasted; Brioni; Tomorrow Never Dies
    Daniel Craig: Black single-breasted; Brioni; Casino Royale

    Do you agree with these? Which are your favorite single suits and tuxes for each actor?

  32. I think QoS is hard to beat, wardrobe-wise. The suits fit better than in Skyfall or Spectre, I think the colours work well on Craig (esp the midnight blue one he wears to the party in Bolivia), the brown one doesn’t look bad and suits his character at the time, and the casual clothing is fantastic. I don’t have the downer on jeans that some do – he’s going into combat, he’s going to wear something tough. Although the plot of the flml is shaky, it’s a nicely put together movie – I like the post-Tosca shootout alot – as well as having great clothes.

    • Agreed, the only major thing letting down the tailored clothing is the inconsistent sleeve length. At times it appears okay, but behind the scenes photos show that they’re longer than his shirt cuffs most of the time. I wonder how that happened with Tom Ford’s usually great attention to detail.

      I don’t know if it was jeans, period, so much as that he was wearing standard indigo denim jeans. The range of beige colours from earlier in the film and Casino Royale looked a bit nicer, more like chinos. I wasn’t bothered by it either.

  33. I wasn’t too bothered by the choice of indigo denim jeans at the end of the film as bond wore jeans in the novels and considering he was wearing the midnight blue suit in the previous scenes and couldn’t get back to his wardrobe at the hotel, it makes sense he would have to piece together a more casual action outfit, which consisted on the navy harrington jacket, navy polo and indigo jeans. I doubt he had that outfit with him somewhere. What do you think Matt ? The monochrome colour choice is very Bond.

  34. There are plenty of clothes from other Bond films I love like the Navy Birdseye suit in Goldeneye, the light grey Mohair suit in Dr. No, the black leather car coat in The Living Daylights, the ivory dinner jacket in Goldfinger, the Charcoal Navy Suit in Casino Royale. But in terms of overall clothing, I might have to say From Russia with Love is favorite. While Bond doesn’t technically wear a tuxedo in that one, I think Bond has never looked better in the suits he wears, the navy suit, the plain weave glen check, the dark sharkskin, they are so timeless, versatile and look awesome.

      • One person’s boring is another person’s classic. I think regardless of the details and colours chosen, good fit and quality construction can elevate just about anything. Anthony Sinclair did exactly this with Connery’s otherwise mundane blue and grey suits.

    • Couldn’t agree more. I don’t remember reading this entry when it was first published so reading it now is like for the first time and that was my reaction too! I’ve stated many times Thunderball is maybe my favourite in the canon for many reasons and the clothing is part of that judgement. The silver sharkskin on the way to the Junkanoo has surely got to rank among the best suits in the entire series and the midnight blue shawl collar at the casino looks great too. Both have been a big influence on my personal dress code! Connery’s casual clothes wouldn’t look out of place fifty years later. Honourable mention to Lazenby’s PoW check suit in Switzerland but I really dislike the steep slant of the pocket flaps.

  35. I can only speak for myself here, Dan, but I see FRWL as the absolute standard for tasteful, elegant suits. There are suits from other films I prefer for their interesting details, like the notch lapel waistcoat in Goldfinger, or the straight cut waistcoat in Thunderball (I like three-pieces) but the FRWL suits are the perfect foundation. The minimum standard on which to add personal touches. Simplicity perfected.

    • Jovan and Timothy, there is no questioning the fit and construction of all FRWL suits (and it doesn’t hurt that Connery is still in his physical prime) – what I meant to say is that in that particular movie we don’t see any blazers, sport coats, overcoats or anything else to break the monotony of blue and gray suits with solid ties. In spite of the ruffled formal shirt, I would have ranked OHMSS higher than FRWL exactly because of its variety (I don’t consider the highland outfit because it’s meant to be a disguise).

      • I have just taken a second look at all the FRWL suits on Matt’s list and stick to my guns – all beautiful suits, but a bit monotonous.

      • I get what you’re saying. Almost every suit is grey, almost every shirt is light blue, and every tie is navy. I appreciate the exercise in simplicity. It’s not all that realistic, though, and three suits would have done just fine.

  36. That I can understand, especially about the realism. In fact, if it wasn’t for this blog detailing the precise differences between each suit I probably would have assumed there were only two or three in the film at a glance.
    So while I see the grey/light blue/navy outfits to be almost perfect I can acknowledge the desire for variety.

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