I have criticised Skyfall and Spectre costume designer Jany Temime a considerable amount for the overly tight and short fit of the suits in which she dressed Daniel Craig, as well as for a few other smaller details. But her brilliant costume choices far outnumber the mistakes. There is still much to admire in the suits, shirts and ties she chose for Daniel Craig, as well as in Daniel Craig’s casual wear and in other characters wardrobes.
The suitings—the fabrics that suits are made from—that Jany Temime dressed Daniel Craig in are all unique and out of the ordinary. These suitings include herringbone weaves, sharkskins, glen checks and fancy but subdued stripes. She never dresses Bond in any suitings that would be inappropriate for the character (notwithstanding silk blends that still read as wool on screen). Temime chose grey sharkskin and checked suits that recall what Sean Connery wore as James Bond in the 1960s. The colours of Craig’s suits are never too dark to overpower his fair complexion, with most suits being medium shades of blue and grey. The exception is the black suit in Spectre, which is used very appropriately for a gangster’s funeral. She handled the black funeral suit exceptionally well in any case. By making this black suit in a large herringbone weave instead of a plain weave or serge, she made the black suit look vibrant and interesting rather than flat and dull.
Temime recognised the importance of dressing Daniel Craig in blue, a colour that flatters his warm complexion and brings attention to his blue eyes. In Spectre she dressed Craig in two medium blue suits, and in both Skyfall and Spectre she dressed Craig in many sky blue shirts.
Temime also made some brilliant choices in outer coat styles in Spectre. The navy herringbone Crombie-style coat in the London scenes is an elegant British classic that Bond never wore before, whilst the black double-breasted bridge coat at the funeral is a grand and unusual piece that recalls James Bond’s naval heritage.
Beyond the tailored clothing, Jany Temime excelled with inspired casual clothing choices for James Bond. Her greatest accomplishment in dressing Bond was introducing the character to many iconic British brands, including Barbour (the waxed jacket in Skyfall), John Smedley (the black jumper in Skyfall), Dents (gloves in Skyfall), Liberty London (scarf in London in Skyfall), Matchless (the tan suede jacket in Spectre), Sanders & Sanders (chukka boots in Spectre), Thomas Pink (the tie in the final scene of Spectre), Crockett & Jones (shoes and boots in Skyfall and Spectre) and N.Peal (jumpers in Skyfall and Spectre). She also dressed Bond in modern British brands such as All Saints (henley and corduroy jeans in Spectre) Neil Barrett (trousers worn with the blue suede jacket in Spectre) and the British high street brand Topman (chinos in Skyfall). Thanks to Temime, James Bond is once again representing his country through his clothes, though sadly not through tailoring.
Beyond British brands, Temime dressed Bond beautifully in casual clothes from around the world. A pea coat in Skyfall from the American brand Billy Reid is a fantastic piece that recalls Bond’s naval heritage whilst also being a very practical casual coat. Though overpriced, the navy Dior Homme jacket in Spectre is a simple—yet beautiful—and easy-to-wear piece. Temime worked with Tom Ford to copy clothes from other brands like Moncler, in the case of the nylon-front blouson in Spectre. Like the Dior jacket, this blouson is also practical and easy to wear, and it looks fantastic on Daniel Craig.
Spectre also saw the return of shirts with cocktail cuffs, a classic Bondian detail that hadn’t been seen in the Bond series since Moonraker. It’s one of my personal favourite elements of Sean Connery’s and Roger Moore’s Bond wardrobes, and I thank Jany Temime for making cocktail cuffs relevant again. Temime also brought back solid blue and black ties to Bond in Spectre, which were a staple of Connery’s Bond wardrboe. And after dressing Craig in a brown knitted silk tie in Spectre, every Bond actor has now worn a knitted tie.
Jany Temime did a fantastic job at dressing characters beyond James Bond. Mallory/M (Ralph Fiennes) is the most beautifully dressed man in Skyfall and Spectre, wearing classic bespoke suits in the London tradition from Timothy Everest. He’s dressed appropriately for Bond’s boss. Temime appropriately dressed Tanner (Rory Kinnear) in Hackett, a mid-range British brand for someone who wants a serviceable suit with some British flair but doesn’t care for or can’t afford something better. It’s perfect for someone in Tanner’s position.
The villains are dressed with the right amount of flair and the women are dressed beautifully under Temime’s direction. All of the supporting characters are dressed exactly as they should be.
There is much to praise of the work Jany Temime did on Skyfall and Spectre, and I believe that she will be remembered positively for the casual outfits she picked for Daniel Craig. Most of James Bond’s iconic outfits in the past have been his tailored clothes, but Temime tried harder than any costume designer before her to make the casual clothes just as special as the tailored clothes. She can’t be forgiven for the poor fit of Daniel Craig’s suits, but there is more to her contributions to James Bond than that.